2,440 Comments

  1. 9070 DI2 question. What could be damaged if someone triggers a shift by accident while the bike is stationary meaning the chain is not spinning like leaning up against a building?

    1. Nothing will be damaged. It has protection and will only shift one cog than disable till it’s able to move the RD

    2. Shimano states that doing this allot can damage the motors (hmmm you mean like checking the battery allot Shimano ?)
      That said; if it is somehow held down by accident the system is smart enough to shut it off. (I tested this when building my remote switches. In fact, it times-out both up/down actions for that der. temporarily.)
      Btw, wonder why Shim built the battery check into the non-spinning dead shifting action and then stated that doing it too much can damage the battery. 🙂 To do a battery check, I always simply press the lever one way for a split second to see the battery light indicator and then shift back the other way which turns it off. (You can tell because the motor will quickly quit clicking.)

      1. I usually end my rides in the lowest, largest cog, and while I have done the same, hold the downshift lever to check battery, then cancel by shifting back up, I realized I could check the battery by holding the up-shift lever. It does not activate an attempted shift because it’s already in the lowest gear, but it does perform the battery check.

        1. That is a good point as system knows it is at the limit, but I have always ended the ride with the smallest cog in the back anyway to avoid having the spring in the derailleur staying stretched out for hours or days (except with the high normals mtb). (Don’t think that really applies anymore for the motor driven d’s but still easiest at any time no matter what cog you are in to just cancel the shifting action with other paddle after viewing the battery light.)

          1. oops mean low normal.

          2. … the opposite should work as well. Just hold down the other lever for battery test.
            I thought that I saw somewhere that the shift without pedaling routine was not so bad for the RD as much as it tended to use up battery juice. ????

  2. My objective is to upgraded from Ultegra 6770 to 11sp.
    Are my options
    1. Buy new equipment
    a. e-tube project system checker (SM-PCE1) for battery firmware update
    b. 11sp front & rear detailleurs
    c. 11sp chain rings & cassette
    2. Mix of new HW and old battery firmware
    a. How do I figure if my battery firmware =v2.0.6?
    b. 11sp rear detailleurs
    c. 11sp chain rings & cassette

  3. Then is this the correct component list for upgrading from 10sp to 11sp Di2?
    1. e-tube project system checker (SM-PCE1) for battery firmware update
    2. 11sp front & rear detailleurs
    3. 11sp chain rings & cassette

    1. yes that would be the minimum, and of course the rear wheel needs to be 11 speed compatible. you really do not need to buy the PCE1, just find a LBS that is willing to update all the components, and save a few bucks. BTW its not just the battery that will need to have the firmware updated, its also the levers and the EW67 junction box. with the money I just saved you for not needing to buy a PCE1 you can buy a seatpost battery kit from me. it will work without needing to buy new shifter cables and an EW90 junction (which would be required if you switched the Shimano internal battery.) http://www.ebay.com/itm/291372640888?ssPageName=STRK:MESOX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1559.l2649

  4. Am running a standard 6770 10sp system. 67A wire harness and external battery. Have always wanted to have sprint shifters. Was told that all I had to buy was 6870 shifters and r610 sprint shifters and I would be good to go. Plugged in new 6870’s and nothing. So what gives?

    1. You will need to update the firmware. Than it will work.

  5. Carlton, great read. I just plugged in my Di2 BCR2 for the first time to charge. Connected to Apply USB adapter then into the wall. Every article says the battery should be charged in 90 minutes. I see the light on the left of the charger still showing an amber color. Will it turn green when fully charged?

    1. Author

      Yes, it does change color and/or turn off. I can’t remember which. The lower wattage iPhone changer may take slightly longer, which isn’t a bad thing.

      1. Amber light=charging, turns off when done, if the Amber light does not come on when plugged in indicates battery is not discharged enough to charge light flashing indicates something is wrong, like trying to charge a external battery through a BMR. Not the best of charging indicators.

        1. Yes the light did eventually turn off. Took over 2 hours but it was the first charge and I was using iPhone USB adapter to boot. I noticed that devices charge slower using that adapter.

  6. I used E-tube to update my Specialized Diverge Carbon Di2 components (​​ST-R785-L/R, SM-EW90-A​, SM-BMR2​, FD-6870​, RD-6870​-GS). However, I’m not able to access the “​Synchronized shift map setting​” part of E-tube as described in http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/. Is this feature limited to XTR components only?

      1. Thanks Carlton for the information. Knowledgeable people at Shimano and Specialized are screened by “Customer Service” from helping consumers 😉
        Do you think Shimano will open the interface to allow third parties to supply synch shifting?

        1. Author

          Peter, to be honest, I don’t ever see Shimano opening this up. It in the front / rear derailleur firmware and they control that tightly.

          Personally, I’d love to see ratio matching on the road setups. So that when you drop from the big ring to the small ring in front, the rear shifts to a sprocket that gives a gear ratio close to the one you were just in. . . as opposed to the big jump you get other wise.

          1. This seems a little “brute force”. The Diverge Di2 has a 52/36 crankset and an 11-speed, 11-32 cassette. Has anyone use E-tube to customize ST-R785 to do ratio matching? I would like to collaborate on programming or testing this approach with someone with similar interests.

          2. Story was that “Skunk Works” at Fairwheel Bikes came up with Sync Shifting for MTB long before the big Shim; who then sent Shimano USA vice president Wayne Stetina over to have a look-see. 😉 I imagine if they had done one for the road, Big S would have “incorporated” that also for the road. Too bad cause as you said, it would be another cool feature to have on the road.

  7. Really helpful site, Thanks a million for all the help.
    i’ve splashed out on the SM-PCE1 and upgraded all the firmware on my Ultegra 6770 groupset, but as soon as i plug my SW-R600 climber shifter, E-Tube tells me “The connected unit is not supported by the current bicycle type. Remove units other than the following and redo the connection check.”
    ive tried to connect the shiftier on its own but always with the same result.
    The shifter works fine, but the perfectionist wants to know why theres an issue!! Any ideas why?

  8. Is it possible to restrict the 6770 RD to use only 9 cogs in otherwise 10-speed system? We have done this with mechanical system because of the rollout rules in junior races (16-26 casette, 16 restricted). In my opinion the best payback for electric system is a) TT b) juniors with shorter fingers and weaker wrists 😉

      1. Using the limit screw will cause premature RD failure if you keep running the servos against the screws. Guaranteed.

  9. I would like to disconnect the 3 cables from my A Junction box, currently mounted under my stem, so that I can mount under my Bar Fly Garmin mount. Is it just a matter of unplugging the cables by pulling staight back or is there anything tricky? Also is there a downside to mounting under the GPS mount?

    Thanks

    1. Use the plug tool to unplug the cables.

      1. Hmmm. I didn’t know I could.. Even still that tool seams designed to push the cable end in. I’m sure you’re right, but I’m not sure how to use that tool. I’ll give it a whirl

        1. One end is for insurtion the other for removal. User manuals are on line.

          1. That worked nicely. Thanks. I did find the Manual online as well. I went to mount the junction box under the Bar Fly mount, and only needed to disconnect one cable. Unfortunately the electronic for the front derailleur (running under the bar tape) is about 10cm short. I will need to get a new cable to make this work

  10. Carlton, I have both 7970 and 9070 on bikes. I want to put a big cassette on my 7970, it has the 11/28 on it currently. any advice what works and what changes if any to rear mech etc….

    1. Author

      To go to a bigger cassette, you’ll need a long cage rear derailleur arm. Basically remove the one you have and install a new one that is compatible. Not an easy mod, but people have done it. No other options for 7970.

    2. Don’t know the details but why not go with a compact crankset ? I am using a 50/34 11/28 and I do not miss a 53/39 at all. Still keep up just fine on the flats & downhills with the A group. Btw, I love cross chaining to get the extra leverage of the 50.

      1. Author

        50/34 front, 11/28 rear is what I’m running as well. I wish I could generate enough watts for bigger front rings, but can’t honestly ever see myself needing anything more.

  11. so i could put a dura ace long cage on carlton then maybe a 11/30 or11/32. or would you suggest using a 10 speed ultegra rear mach and their cassettes?

    1. Martin, I believe a Dura Ace dérailleur only supports up to 28 teeth. You have to switch to Ultegra to go 11/32. I know somebody with 2 mech derailleurs, Dura Ace and Ultegra and he goes thru the hassle of switching hardware for different (multi-day) events. Too much work to comtemplate

  12. Hi – very helpful article, but… I have a standard Dura ace Di2 without the D-Fly. My Garmin 510 seems to pick up speed and cadence anyway. Is this reasonable? How does it know ratios etc to get speed?

    1. It doesn’t need gear ratio for speed, it uses GPS or speed sensor which, in turn, uses wheel diameter to calculate speed.

      1. Thanks Lou – that makes sense for speed but doesn’t explain cadence. I think the standard Di2 actually transmits speed and cadence even without the D-Fly but Shimano just don’t say so.

        1. Author

          Your data isn’t coming from Di2. There is no ANT+ broadcast capability at all in Di2. The SM-EWW01 ANT Wireless Broadcast Module will broadcast *private* ANT data, but not public parameters like speed and cadence. In fact, it’s impossible for Di2 can’t detect speed or cadence at all. It only has access to front gear selected, rear gear selected, gear ratio, and battery level. It can’t read the rotational speed of the front or the rear gear, so can’t calculate cadence or wheel speed; all it knows is the mechanical ratio between the two.

          Do you have a power meter? They also broadcast cadence as a standard cadence sensor.

  13. Thank you so much for this excellent resource.
    I bought full 9070 Di2 but did not feel like upgrading all my wheels to 11 speed. So I sold my RD9070 and replaced it for a RD6770. Since I bought every component used I updated everything to do a diagnosis and see if all was ok.
    Since then the system stopped working.
    I have just dowloaded from your link the legacy version from e-tube software hoping I can downgrade do use FD9070 with RD6770.
    How can I do this, just install it and connect the components again?
    Thanks!

    1. It’s too late once it updated you can’t go back.

  14. Carlton, I have recently purchased a 2014 S5 Di2–I got a deal. Anyway, after about 700 mi of riding and the requisite re-tuning the FD is rubbing the chain on the inside in all gears. (This actually started on a century ride last Saturday) We can’t find the cause but yesterday I checked the battery and it had 50% charge or less (remember as long as it blinks green it is charged between 26 and 50%). After a fully charged, the trim seemed to respond and no more rubbing. Or am I just making this correlation up? Have you had any other reports like this? Could it be the case that when the battery is at less than fully charged (or at least 50% charged) the FD trim suffers? I have a Felt F2 with Ultegra and I never had this problem–it shifts and trims until the battery dies (I have never run it that low, but you get the drift). So I am surprised that a much more expensive bike and shifting system would be so delicate….ps, I have also dropped the chain several times and this never happens on the Felt.

    1. Author

      Randy, I don’t think this is due to the battery charge level. Something is out of alignment. I suggest you download the PDF of the service manual and re-adjust the front derailleur per the Shimano instructions.

      1. Thanks, Carlton. I have forwarded your response to my mechanic as I think these adjustments are too tricky for an amateur. Best, Randy White

  15. H. I have a Ui2 6870 11 speed. I unplugged the front derailleur shift wire to change handlebars on my new bike. Now I cannot get the shift wire plug to go back into the shifter properly. I will not click home like the other end goes into the battery. Any ideas, have you heard of this problem? Thanks john

    1. Author

      Did you use the Shimano cable remove/install tool? That usually solves these types of problems.

      1. Yes, ordered the 13$ tool and have now pushed the plug back into place. Just couldn’t believe I could not plug this back in with my fingers. I was trying to push it in with a blunt knive but was damaging the plug hence my question to you. Tight fit!

        1. Author

          Glad it worked for you! Yes, very tight fit. Keeps connections from coming apart due to rough roads.

  16. Hey all, today i broke my rd-6770 and it seems not usuable. As many of you mentioned, 6770 rear derrailleurs are discontinued. Now i might upgrade to 6870 11 spd. As far as i got, sti levers are fine with 11 spd. and i need to buy fd-6870, rd-6870, 11 spd. cassette and chain. But, what about fs-6700 crank? Is it compatible with 11 spd ? By the way, my set is updated to current version and wheels are 11 compatible. Many thanks for your answers.

    1. Yes agreed. Just carried out exactly the same upgrade and everything working fine with the 6700 crank.

  17. Hi, I hope you can assist with a problem I’m having with my Dura-Ace Di2 (7900). I am unable to carry out the Index Setting. When I press the Shift Mode switch the lamp illuminates for a second and then goes off. I attempted to keep the button pressed in but nothing happened. Unfortunately this has caused problems with changing gears specifically onto the biggest rear cog.

    Battery charge is FULL and I can change gears but without the Shift Adjustment I am unable to set the gears correctly.

    The outer shift limit (H-screw) and inner shift limit (L-screw) have been set as per the description above but without the Shift Adjustment I am unable to carry out the fine tuning.

    I suspect there is something wrong with the Battery/Electronics but would appreciate any assistance on this matter such as possible methods to reset the system.

    1. This is a symptom of the rear derailer failing it will probably need to be replaced. To reset the system remove the rear will hold down the button on the junction box until the rear derailer starts to move it should move through all of the gears if it doesn’t just a further symptoms that through driller is failing

      1. Thanks for your response. The rear derailleur does operate through the range but due to a small adjustment that is usually completed by the Index Setting it is unable to go on the biggest cog. If I touch the derailleur slightly it will go which indicates only a small adjustment is required.

        I believe this could be something to do with electrics as my battery is positioned under the frame below the bottom bracket and water ingress may have caused the system to experience a short circuit.

        I shall look to purchase a new rear derailleur as per your advice and may even look at replacing the power management system.

        Any further advice would be appreciated. I am starting to believe that Di2 isn’t the way forward for me. Brilliant concept but I don’t have the weight and budget of a pro team including highly experienced mechanics to rectify such problems.

        1. So are you saying you are only having issues with the last cog… That sounds like an adjustment problem, be sure that there is at least 1mm gap between the limit screw after its in the gear. Also check the hanger alignment. So if the reset went through the range and you are able to do the fine adjust mode the RD may be ok and your problems are mechanical.

          1. Thanks again for your reply.

            Previously I have been able to press the Shift Mode and you can hear the rear derailleur physically adjust. When I press now it illuminates (RED) for a second and goes off without any noise from the rear derailleur. I can check the battery life which is currently indicating FULL Charge (100% Green)

            I do believe it is electrical and I took the bike to a local bike shop and they tried adjusting mechanically but noted also that the Di2 Shift Mode is not doing what is expected.

          2. Call me 626-797-5757

  18. I have Ultegra 6770 on my Giant. It was shifting fine. I used my chain checker and found that it was stretched, so I took it to my shop and had them put a new chain on it. Next ride out, shifting up the cassette (to bigger sprocket) was really slow. I would shift, but it took three turns of the cranks before the chain would climb. My shop made adjustments, but the problem would not go away. Finally, they hooked it up to the computer and set it on the fastest shift speed. Since then, it has been great. But it does not make any sense to me. There was never any ghost shifting or anything. I don’t get it.

  19. I just ordered the ANT communication module. Is there any software updates needed with this? I think the last update was 7/14
    Thanks

  20. Hi there. I’m planning on buying a wireless unit SM-EWW01. Does it come with the connecting cable to RD in the box? Or I need to but the cable separately? Anyone has experience with this unit?

    1. I have just ordered mine and was told that you need a additional cable. You can mount it close to the front or rear derailleur remove that unit D wire plug it into the EWW01 and take your additional cable and plug it into the second plug on the EWW01 and the other end will go to the derailleur. I am still wondering about software revision compatibility. I’ll have my unit later this week and will find out if there is a problem.

      1. Thanks Mark, I didn’t know the unit came without a cable and that it had to be bought separately. Looking forward to your next posting after installing the unit.

      2. So here is the scoop. Thanks to the Longshoremen (not my friends) there has been a ship off shore waiting to unload a container of Shimano parts for a long time. Thus the no stock on the internet. I did find a unit at a local shop and installed it with no problems. Did all the recommended steps in the instructions but the EWW01 did not connect with my Garmin Edge 1000. Took the bike into the shop where I bought the EWW01 and they did a software update and the unit connected immediately. So the short version is you will most likely have to do a update to get the wireless unit connected.

        1. Thanks Mark, will check on the software version of my Di2. Does it mean that SM-EWW01 can only work with 6780 (11speed) and not 6770 (10speed)? My unit will arrive sometime next week.

          1. Author

            The SM-EWW01 will work with both 10 and 11 speed, as long as the all of components are updated to latest firmware. You just can’t use an 11-speed rear derailleur with a 6770 (10 speed) front derailleur – but the Ant+ module has nothing to do with that.

      3. Mark

        2015-April-18 at 5:50 pm

        So here is the scoop. Thanks to the Longshoremen (not my friends) there has been a ship off shore waiting to unload a container of Shimano parts for a long time. Thus the no stock on the internet. I did find a unit at a local shop and installed it with no problems. Did all the recommended steps in the instructions but the EWW01 did not connect with my Garmin Edge 1000. Took the bike into the shop where I bought the EWW01 and they did a software update and the unit connected immediately. So the short version is you will most likely have to do a update to get the wireless unit connected.

        1. I’ve installed the SM-EWW01 on my 11speed with no problem. Instantly paired and working fine. Thanks all.

  21. I was at then of a 100Km ride today when suddenly I couldnt shift my rear derailleur. Front was fine. Battery was only charged 2 weeks ago. Went to my LBS and they hooked up the junction box to PC and found that from junction B to rear derailleur, something had become disconnected. Because junction box is down by the bottom bracket, they whole crank has to come out. Its a somewhat proprietary crank on my Look 695 so I didn’t want to muck with it.

    My question is this, they bike is only 2 weeks old, when they reconnect the cable is there anything that can be done to ensure it doesn’t happen again? I was bouncing along some rough concrete, but not Paris / Roubaix by any stretch of the imagination. I’m hoping that the cable simply wasn’t seated properly when the bike was built, but I’m a bit worried.

    1. Sounds to me like it could only be an installation error by the bike technician in not ensuring the connection was fully clicked home when pushing tbe cable connector into the B Junction as these connectors do not pull out easily under even harsh riding conditions. The only thing I could suggest to make you feel better is to tape up the junction and cables tightly and wrap bubble wrap around it to cushion it from banging against the inside of the frame.

  22. Hi, The alfine switch unit SW-S705, can be used to control an Ultegra 6770 Di2 rear mech as a 10speed, needs to be used with a SM-EW67-A-E junction A, been running it for about 18 months now on a 11-42 cassette 1×10 mtb with a custom mech cage, similar in design to K-Edge. I am currently working on a Custom knuckle to also fit a SRAM type 2 clutch in the rear mech.

    1. Hi Paul, interesting that you can run big cogs on your 10speed RD. What cage do you use and where is it available?

  23. LBS reconnected cable to Junction B and zip-tied the box somewhere under the downtube. Apparently the distributor built the bike with the junction box free-floating within the frame, suspended by the cables that connected into it. That was an accident waiting to happen.

    1. My ride is now silent. No more noises when going over a bump. I would suggest that if others are hearing noises, that their internal junction box may be loose and eventually the cable may become disconnected. Might want to take preventative action

  24. I really needed this info. Great job putting that together! Very helpful!!

    1. Author

      Drilling carbon fiber frame for the first time is stressful. Measure 10 times, drill once!

  25. Hi I have original 6770 di2. My front dérailleur has broken. Can I just replace with fd-6870 or do I need to buy a rear as well.

    1. Author

      I assume you have 10-speed rear cassettes. So you really should find another 6770 front to replace the one you have. Otherwise, you’ll need to upgrade everything to 11-speed.

    2. Fd6770 are pretty easy to find new, it’s rd6770 that is unavailable, I’d just replace with same.

  26. Hi,
    I have an idea for a super-budget-build, and would like some expertise feedback…
    Would it work to connect one SM-EW67 with one RD-6870, one SM-R600 and a battery?
    Nothing else, no extra wires or boxes… charging to be done separately.
    Of course the wires will be too short to reach from RD to handlebar, that will be a spliced/hacked solution.
    What am I missing?
    Thanks.

    1. Well that will work if of course you mean an SM-BMR1/2 +battery. It make no difference where they are plugged in so it will work, but you will likely need a SM-PCE1 to program everything.

      1. Great!
        Why won’t the internal battery connect directly to the SM-EW67? I remember reading something about that but couldn’t make sense of it.

        Is programming required even for new components used as intended? Won’t parts bought at e.g. Ribble be of “latest” firmware?

        1. Author

          The internal battery won’t work with the SM-EW67 because Shimano firmware won’t allow it. It’s because the SM-EW67 doesn’t have the charging port for the external charger connection. Shimano wants to keep people from doing something stupid, like having an internal battery that can’t be charged using the standard/approved method.

        2. Sorry if I am too late to the game… Unless you can borrow a SM-PCE1 I wonder if it would be better for you to replace the EW67 with SM-EW90-A? that way you can use the internal battery and use the charger to program instead of the SM-PCE1, so that should offset the cost difference in junction boxes. I have NOT tried this setup myself, so I would hope one of the experts could chime in.

  27. Hi Carlton, thanks for the huge amounts of information.

    I have a query regarding my 7970 di2. It currently has a 53/39. But would like a compact. Other than obtaining a 50/34 crank, is there any changes i need to make to the di2 as im assuming there will need to be adjustments made to the electronics to?

    1. Author

      You don’t need to make any electronic adjustments, but you will probably have to mechanical adjust and align the front derailleur. Download the service manual PDF for details on how to do that adjustment.

      1. Thanks Carlton. Much appreciated.

  28. Componts will come from Shimano with the first version for that compote OEM. They expect you to update since the supplie the firmware free, the EW67 and BMR were both prior to 11 speed so they will need to be updated. Since the BTR2 won’t work, and you sound like you want an internal battery setup you can buy one of my custom kits I sell on eBay and run internal with a battery life of an additional 80%.

  29. Does Shimano make Di2 components for the US market that have different firmware than for the European market. I was told by my LBS (generally thought to be very good and honest) that Di2 components sold in Europe are not cross-compatible with those sold in the US market. Most importantly, I was told that European component firmware cannot be upgraded and/or customized with a United States market SM-PCE1. Is any of this true?

    1. Don’t know why anybody would say that, I have sold many Di2 components to all kinds of international buyers including Russia, Germany France, and Indonesia, all updated it with firmware right here from the USA never had a problem. Sounds like misinformation from an uninformed person. It is true that you are required to put your location before downloading the firmware

  30. hi just wondering is it possible to charge the internal battery with just a usb lead connected to the SM-EW90-A Dura-Ace 3-Port Junction without the whole SM-BCR2 charging unit.or is there some other way of charging it without the actual charger?

    1. the BCR2 is the only way to charge the BTR2. However I do sell a internal battery kit complete with charger for $200.

  31. Hi Carlton
    Can I put a dura ace 9070 rear derailler on my ultegra 6870 setup only ?
    Thanks
    Richard

  32. Hi Carlton – I have 6770 and want to change external to internal – I have bought the new junction box SM EW-90 (3 port) and hooked it up but nothing works – are all those Items compatible ?

    1. Author

      Jez, yes, they are all compatible. That’s the setup I’m running. You need to have everything updated to the latest firmware version, and my guess is that it is not. Either that, or some of the wires are not properly seated – you need the cable tool to seat them properly.

  33. Just installed the complete 6870 Di2 system on a Look 585 carbon frame. The frame is quite small. Rotor crank with 50/34 Q-rings. KMC X11SL chain. Previously I had 6800 front/rear derailleurs & shifters. Everything worked great. The 6870 install went quite smoothly. I followed the dealer manual to the letter. On the stand the shifting is flawless.

    However, when I ride the bike it simply WILL NOT shift from the small ring to the large ring when in cogs 5-7 in the back. If I loosen the high limit screw enough to solve the problem, it will frequently throw the chain to the outside. The cage is absolutely as close as possible to the large ring. The high/low chain/cage spacing is dead on. I have tried all of the different trim settings. I have tried the 2 different FD spacers that Rotor offers. However, these make the support screw unusable. I have tried angling the derailleur a bit so the rear of the cage is slightly outboard. Slight improvement but not enough..

    I notice that after initiating the shift from the small to the large ring and while the chain is scraping away at the large ring, trying to move up, if I hit the left shifter again, it will move slightly outboard enough to get the chain to catch and shift up. I have seen no reference anywhere to this other shift position, is this normal? It is sort of a remedy but I really don’t think I should have to basically shift twice to get it to work. Especially not for what this system costs!

    I don’t have the PCE1 so I don’t know what firmware version is installed. The parts were all bought new very recently.

    I would do a complete reset and start over if I could find a way to do that. Anyone know?

    Sorry to be so long winded. I am open to any suggestions. I’m hoping to find some solution this weekend so I won’t have to wait until Monday to call either Shimano or Rotor.

    Thanks in advance for any input.

    1. This all sounds like a mechanical adjustment issue not electronic. If you are not a bike mechanic it may be just beyond your ability and you may need to take it to a shop. All the adjustment you need should be within the limits of the L and H adjustment screws, the bracing screw is really not an adjustment screw although it does help with the tow out of the rear of the FD it’s really just to keep it aligned during shifting. Be sure you are using the correct screws for adjusting its easy to get confused.

  34. Thanks for the reply. It’s definitely not beyond my ability, but I can certainly understand how it would be for many. This is certainly not beginner material.

    I have slightly toed the tail of the FD outward and that has helped a bit. I have also tried raising the FD slightly. It is now about 3mm above the highest point of the large ring. This sounds counterintuitive, but it has actually helped.

    I can adjust the outer limit screw enough to get it to shift up reliably, but then it will frequently throw the chain to the outside. This was also the case even when the FD was <1mm from the large ring.

    It almost seems like the pins on the inside of the large ring aren't able hook the chain enough to get it to move, but there doesn't appear to be much wear on the pins.

    Maybe I need to get some standard rings and see if this is purely an issue with the Q-Rings. I suspect shifting would be perfect with standard rings. Although I would prefer not to sacrifice the Q-Rings in order to get this to work.

    1. Didn’t mean to disrespect, but you never know when guys are in over there head. I have setup several Qrings and found they do not shift as well as a shimano setup, but they do work. If I had the bike on my stand I could give a more intelligent suggestion. With Qrings I find it more difficult to eliminate chain rub because the cage needs to be close to the chain when it’s on the small ring as, the starting point is critical for going to the big ring. Again be sure you are not confusing the H L adjusting screws.

  35. What do you recommend I do or check if my front derailleur wont shift at all and I have a full battery? Thanks!!

    1. I had the same problem with rear dérailleur 2 weeks after I got my bike. Cable to junction box within the frame had come loose. Had to remove BB and reinsert

    2. Difficult to say without more information. What components do you have 7970 6770 6870 or 9070, What’s the configuration, did it ever work before it stopped???

      1. I have the 9070 components… TT set up with front derailleur shifting only on the left brake hood. TT bars have rear derailleur one button shifting on each bar. Right brake derailleur is rear shifting as well. Battery went dead so I assumed that is what was causing the front derailleur shifting to stop however after the full charge the rear works fine and the front still does not shift. It has always worked fine. Thanks for all of your input!! Really appreciate the help…

        1. Author

          Chris, you either have a loose wire connector or a bad front derailleur. If you have the PC adapter / internal battery charger, you could use that to see what components show up as being connected. Otherwise, trial-and-error with new wires and making sure the connectors are firmly seated.

  36. Hi, Great Di2 resouce page.
    Looks like Giant sell their TCR SL 0 with Dura Ace 9070. This is external battery, but junction A seems to be the older SM-EW67-A-E.
    Is this possible? I thought that junction was ultergra not DA?
    And with this setup can I add the climbing/pave shifters easily?
    Thanks.

    1. Yes adding the climbing remote is done by plugging it into the shift lever. The EW67 is comparable with all etube systems using external batteries, but not internal batteries. Except for the one I sell.

  37. Thx for a great guide Carlton. From what I understand the e-tube project software is only available for Windows. Have you heard anything about a mac version coming any time soon?

    1. Author

      Jesper, I don’t think there will every be a Mac version. Perhaps a far-off future hardware update will yield a Bluetooth adapter that will allow iOS/Android apps, but I don’t see Mac ever happening.

  38. I’m in the process of switching my Di2 6770 from my Orbea Orca to a Orbea Avant. I’ve purchased a new junction box (SM EW90), Di2 specific seatpost (FSA SLK Di2 ) and I’m in the market for an internal battery(SM-BTR2). Questions: Besides firmware, do you see any possible Conflicts? Do you think i’ll need new/more wires? Do I need the battery charger(BCR2) or is there another way to charge the battery? Thanks

    P.S. Both frames are 57cm

    1. Author

      Darren, You should get the internal battery charger because it’s also used to update the firmware, which you’ll need to do. You’ll probably need a longer cable to go from the B Junction to the battery. Other than that, you should be good.

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