1. Hi Carlton,
    I am converting my Shiv Tri bike to Di2 and will be buying mostly Ultegra 6870 components. If I buy the SM -BCR2 charger/interface, the BT-DN110 battery and the EW – WU111 is there any need to buy the SM- PCE 1?
    Can the SM – PCE 1 do anything that the above combination cannot do?
    (I thought I read somewhere online that problems in getting a Garmin edge 520 and Di2 to connect were overcome only by using the SM – PCE 1)
    Thanks, David

    1. Do you know if the R671 Remote TT Shifter (two button) if compatible with EW – WU111? Can you control the Edge 520 in TT position? Thank!

  2. Hi
    could you please help on how to upgrade my dura ace 9070 through E-Tube with SM-BCR2, a W10 laptop, SM-EW90-A, it is like it is not recognized after having installed everything?
    Driver missing?


    1. This should be a very straight forward process, but lets list the steps required.
      1) From your Windows 10 laptop, browse to: http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com
      2) On the top menu, click on: Download the App
      3) Select the blue box: Ver.3.2.1 Download
      4) The downloaded file is a ZIP file and needs to be extracted (E-tube_Proj_V_3_2_1.zip) Note: This is a 95Mb file
      5) Launch the app, E-tube_Proj_V_3_2_1.exe and follow the prompts to install.
      Note 1: The SM-BCR2 must be disconnected from the laptop while the installation runs.
      Note 2: This app requires the .NET Framework 3.5 SP1 component from Microsoft. Highly suggest this be installed before installing the E-tube app.

      6) Be sure your laptop has a connection to the Internet
      7) Connect your SM-BCR2 to the EW90-A and then to the laptop USB port.
      8) Launch the E-tube Project app from your desktop.
      9) Select your Di2 Bike Type at the top, Road, Mountain, Urban/City
      10) The app will immediately start downloading all component updates, this is normal. Don’t worry, no updates are being applied to your components yet.
      11) When the MENU appears, CONNECTION CHECK should be highlighted, click on this and let the app find your components. At a minimum, your EW90-A should be visible as long as the battery is connected and has a minimal charge.

      Once the Component Check is completed, you should see other options to help you with your Di2 system firmware updates and setup.

      Hope this helps.


      1. Thanks a lot Jim!
        I followed your instructions and it did finally work and was recognized all the components correctly. I did update to latest firmware. all correct!

        But despite having read the manual:
        when I go to the ‘shift mode setting’, and I select shift mode 1 and 2 to ‘Semi-synchronized shift’ (what does it mean mode 1 and mode 2????btw…) and rear shift up 2 on FD shift down…all set to 2 and I do ‘Complete Setup’ button
        It does not make what I want:
        Semi-synchronized shift is a function that automatically shifts the rear derailleur when the front derailleur is shifted in order to obtain optimal gear transition.

        How should I set it up in order I get Semi-synchronized shifting??

        Thanks again for your support and regards


        1. There are 3 Shift Modes, Normal (manual), Semi-synchronized and Synchronized.
          Normal – No automatic shifting is done, you control both FD & RD changes
          Semi-sync – You control the FD and the RD will automatically shifts to maintain the best gear ratios.
          Synchronized – Allows shifting without duplication of gear combinations. You shift the RD as normal and the FC will automatically shift and with one control input to move the RD and optimize the shift.

          This is not like an automatic transmission, it’s just optimizing your shifts for best FD / RD changes.

          Within the e-Tube Project software, you can customize or select what each of the 2 modes will do. You can also customize the shifts (number of gears to automatically shift up or down). My recommendation is to accept and leave it at the defaults until you have worked with if for a while. If you have changed these settings, you can press the “Restore default values” option within the program.

          To change modes, press the MODE button on your cable junction box A (I use an EW-90). To change modes, press the button twice quickly to change modes, kind of like a double mouse click on a PC. The Green and Red indicator lights will flash to indicate which Shift Mode you have selected.
          One Flash = Mode 0 (normal / manual)
          Two Flashes = Mode 1
          Three Flashes = Mode 2
          The modes will cycle through, 0, 1, 2, then back to 0.

          If you have the D-Fly installed on your Di2 system, the mode can be changed with the Smartphone App.


          1. Thanks Jim again,
            I had a 200 kms sportive last weekend, la mussara in Reus Tarragona, and did not want to mess around just in case…but will definetely try it tomorrow, and let you know.

            I also have the SM-EWW01 ANT Wireless Broadcast Module: so not bluetooth capable.

          2. Hi Jim
            I did push the button twice quickly to change modes, kind of like a double mouse click on a PC and The Green and Red indicator lights did not flash to indicate which Shift Mode I have selected.
            You should not do it on the e-tube software?

          3. In order for Synchronized Shifting to function, all components in your Di2 system must meet the compatibility requirement. Check out the latest “e-Tube Compatibility Chart” to see if you meet the requirements. This chart is available at: http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.2.2-00-EN.pdf

            Setting the Shift Mode via e-Tube software or the A Box button is your choice, but having the ability to change it from the A Box allows a change while on the road.

          4. Hi Jim ,

            I have just checked my Di2 DuraAce components, and I still do not know what could be:
            SM-BTR2 / SM-EW90-A / RD-9070 / FD-9070 / SM-BCR2 / SM-EWW01

            Despite I have all firmware updated (3.0 and above..), when I double click on the SM-EW90-A cable junction to change modes, the Green and Red indicator lights does not flash to indicate which Shift Mode I have selected….is there any incompatibility with my components? I did not see any on the “e-Tube Compatibility Chart”.

            Is it possible to change Shift modes, to set the Shift Mode via e-Tube software? I can only see that you can customize the modes, but not set modes from 0 to 1 and to 2 as you very well explained.

            And the last chance is to change the Shift Mode via e-Tube app, but as my wireless unit is SM-EWW01, only supports ANT+…and not bluetooth, so no chance neither!

            Thanks a lot for your support!

          5. With the component combination you provided, there is a note in the compatibility chart under “DI2 with SM-BMR1/SM-BMR2/SM-BTR2”, “Limitation of function with SM-BMR1/SM-BMR2/SM-BTR2”, “*4 Synchronized shift is available only in MTB category”. As I read the chart, you would need to upgrade the battery to the newer BT-DN110 for Synchronized Shifting to work with you components.

          6. Oh! I am gonna need extra investment…battery, plus maybe also the my wireless unit SM-EWW01, that only supports ANT+…and after I could use this semi synchronized functionality and change the customizing from the cell phone.
            One last question: in the case I upgrade to the BT-DN110 Internal Battery, is it compatible with the rest of my components? Will í be able to charge the battery as I normally do it through the SM-EW90-A Dura-Ace 3-Port Junction?
            And finally, I guess I will need the Shimano TL-EW02 Ultegra DI2 E-Tube Tool for installing the whole kit, correct?

            Thanks very much again for all your support,

  3. Thanks for a great and super helpful website!

    Thought I would add some findings I had with my recent Di2 build.

    I had issues trying to connect my iPhone to the E-Tube iOS app. When connecting I was prompted to change the passkey, but every time I tried to enter a new passkey the app suddenly crashed.
    The solution was to go to Application settings and un-check “Verify that the screen for changing the initial PassKey displays.”. After that I could successfully connect through the app.


    1. Author

      Thanks for the info. Seems like a bug that the app doesn’t auto-detect no passkey being required. Set the the passkey using the PC app. I think it’s a good idea to prevent anyone from messing with your settings.

    2. I’ve had to lose the app then go into my iPhone settings and disconnect the WU-111 from the phones bluetooth list. Then go back into the app and try 000000 as the passcode.

  4. Hi Di2 experts, have I made a simple mistake… I’m currently upgrading my external Di2 to internal for a new frameset I’m buying.
    So far I’ve stripped down the old bike and I’ve connected all my new Di2 parts together outside of a frame to test (basically the whole system is connected together as it would be inside a frame but is currently sat on my floor).
    However, despite being a brand new battery, brand new junction boxes and brand new charger, the battery fails to charge!
    When I plug the new internal battery into the system I get a red light on junction box A for 1 second and I plug the charger in, I get no lights at all, none on the charger and none on the junction box A.
    The rear deraileur will move if I press the shifter buttons.
    I’ve plugged in my old external battery into the system and I get a green light for one second and both derailleurs shift, however the old battery is fully charged so won’t test the charger.
    I would be amazed (in a bad way) if the junction box A or charger has arrived broken when brand new and never used. I’ve noticed the internal battery has a metal tab on the outside, is this a negative terminal that needs connecting to anything? Am I doing something wrong ?

    1. Update… I’ve tried other plug sockets and other USB leads. Even on my Garmin 520 which charges ok. The fault lies between the Di2 charger box and the new internal battery. The detailleurs are moving fine and when I press the button on junction box A even goes into adjustment mode and crash protection reset mode.

      1. before you try and charge the battery you need to update all the the firmware including the charger. You need to plug everything together, plug the BCR2 into junction A, plug the charger into your PC than using etube project update the entire system. Pay attention the the system prompts as you may need to remove the BCR2 when if the software on your computer needs to update, and the BCR2 than the components. you cannot charge the battery with etube running… best to used a USB charger for charging.

        1. Ive opened up E-Tube Project on my laptop and plugged in the SM-BCR2 charger (still connected to the entire groupset) into the laptops USB port. Ive clicked on road bike, then connection check and the the laptop screen says the master unit (battery) and the Junction A Unit is not detected. Going into the Preset menu, it says the unit to write to could not be recognised. How do I install the new internal battery and Junction A? Thanks

          1. First be sure you have downloaded the latest version of etube project from Shimaino than update junction A alone, than updated the battery by itself, through junction A. Than the complete system.

          2. DI2DIY…. I have tried only having the junction(A) plugged into the BCR2 and its the same, “unit is not recognised” and the update firmware option is greyed out.
            When I start E-Tube Project a window opens saying its checking for a new version. The version I have is Ver.3.2.2

          3. 3.2.2 is the latest ver. Don’t know what to tell you. Perhaps you can find a LBS with a PCE1 to diagnose the problem.

    2. Ben,

      My initial thought would be a firmware incompatibility with this new internal battery and your other components. What is the battery version you have, SM-BTR2 (old ver) or BT-DN110(new ver). There are some functions and components that only work with the new BT-DN110.

      I’d suggest two options to start. 1) strip it down to the basics, A Box and Battery and try again. 2) Try to update the firmware. You may need to put the external battery on and upgrade all the components, then try the internal battery again.

      One last thought. if you are connected to the A Box and have e-Tube running, the battery will not charge. It doesn’t sound like this is your issue, but wanted to mention in.


      1. Jim, I originally used the BTR-1 external battery and the groupset worked fine. Im trying to upgrade it to the internal BT-DN110-1 battery. When I go onto the road bike page of E-tube Project… the Customise, Error Check, Update Firmware buttons are all greyed out. When I click on Connection Check the SM-BCR2 connects but then E-tube Project says the Master Unit and Junction A is not recognised. Ive tried to go into the Preset menu but this eventually says the units to write to could not be recognised. Or the units to read could not be recognised. Interestingly when I start E-Tube Project a window says charging was stopped, but theres no indications the battery was even charging anyway (the original fault).

    3. First, there is a new version of the e-Tube project, ver 3.2.2, released on May 24, 2017. I would upgrade to this version, then review the compatibility chart located at http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.2.2-00-EN.pdf

      Be absolutely sure your Battery type and A Junction Box are compatible with the rest of your system. Pay particular attention to the *Notes at the bottom of each battery type section. This may help lead you to resolution.

      Until you successfully complete the “Connection Check” these options will be grayed out. The Master Unit is your battery.

  5. Carlton, what a website. Good on you!

    Question: I have Ultegra Di2 6870 series. I’d like to switch to a triathlon set-up without having to upgrade my whole groupset. I have purchased regular DuraAce base-bar TT shifters and want to get either the DuraAce SW-R9160 TT shifters or the DA SW-R671 shifters. What are my options? I know regarding the latter I could use a B-junction to connect the two new wires into my existing SM-EW90 junction box. Would I need to upgrade anything else? Many thanks!

  6. Wonder if removing the 3.2.2 version and installing the 3.2.1 would make a difference? Might be worth a shot.
    I have run both version with no issues.

  7. After tinkering with my DI2 components I wonder

    … for which purpose junction A was made a mandatory component rather than optional? From an engineering perspective it should be fine to just strap battery (BT-DN110), motor unit (MU-S705) and shifters (ST-R785). Even for charging I should be allowed to just undo my seat post and charge the battery directly from a (modified) SM-BCR2.

    … how @DI2DIY made his custom batteries work? I tried it myself but only saw the voltage drop to 1V. Do I have to disassemble an external battery holder and solder the electronics onto my large capacity batteries?

    … what all this signalling means when the diagnostic unit is attached? @Ghislain? This was how I could at least breathe some life into my assembly, briefly. It looks like a pulse code modulation but my sampling rate was too low to be any more specific and until I find a way to charge the battery (junction a is still missing) and can’t do it again 🙁

    … what are the signalling properties of the CAN in use? Symbol frequency? Levels? I saw some chatter with 1/4 and 1/2V swings on different baselines. I never decoded CAN before.

  8. SM-EW67 manual suggest that you have to use ports in specific order
    i.e. connect to wired ports to shifters, and connect unwired port to derailleurs/battery via junction b
    SM-EW90 manual suggest that you can connect anything to any port

    Anyone can confirm that SM-EW67 is really limited to specific port usage?
    or you can use ports in any order (connect derailleurs/battery, shifter to any port)

    1. The only requirement for the A junction 67/90 is that it’s plug in to the system, it does not have to have anything plugged in to it, but can be plugged into any other components in any order.

  9. Hi I have a Durace DI2 10 Speed 7970 system and has always worked fine. A week ago the front dropped into the small chain ring and would not shift to the big chain ring. About 80kms later it started working normally.
    This weekend it stayed in the big chain ring and again would not shift. The rear works fine and shifts normally. The battery is fully charged and I have tried a 2nd battery but to no avail. I have also notice a ticking sound coming from the front derailleur. The ticking sound stops when I unplug the cable going into the front derailleur
    Any ideas as where to start fault finding

    Thank you

    1. Yea, I had the same problem. Eventually the front derailleur stopped working altogether and then the back as well. Was due to the old wires getting moisture in them and corroding away. Suggest you take off the FD and test, if it works OK it’ll be corroded wires between the FD and gear levers.

      1. Lochearnhead did you manage to clean up the wires or able to source new one’s?

          1. LOL!
            Unfortunately I could not clean the wires or get new cables… they are almost impossible to get (at least in Australia). I bit the bullet and upgraded to 6870.

    2. To test if it’s the FD, or the wire… remove the FD plug it in to the RD cable, if it shifts ok than it’s the FD cable, if it won’t shift than it’s the derailleur

  10. Amazing article – thanks! Help is needed
    I have Ultegra Di2 10sp (Focus Chrono 2.0 2012 TT bike) with regular brake lever…(Tektro) The only shifters i have is the Aero-bar end SW-R671.
    I really want to add only a right side – rear derailleur shifter (10sp) for out of the aerobar shifting (Climbs, corners, out of the saddle etc…) My junction box is 3 port (SM-EW90-A) and obviously full.
    To avoid buying an expansive dual TT shifter/lever I thought buying a climbing shifter and attach it to the right base bar end next to the brake lever on the inside. (It will work fine with a 10sp setup right?)
    Do I have to buy this – “SM-EW90-B Dura-Ace 5-Port Junction” for the extra connection or can I attach the climbing shifter in a different way?
    Money is an issue so I would like to know what is my cheapest option… Thanks!

    1. Anyone? If it’s possible to do a manipulation with what i have currently I’d like to know….

      1. My reading says you will need a 5 port junction box and then all will work. You could alternatively cut some wires and solder things together. If you need further instruction on the wire soldering method, then don’t do it.
        You might consider just buying an individual TT brake lever, which although is more money might well be aero cleaner.

        1. Author

          That’s correct, or you can use a Junction B to add more ports up front, which will be messier but possibly cheaper.

  11. How do I charge my battery pack when traveling in Europe ( from US)?

      1. You can connect the charger into any USB charger or your USB connection on your laptop or simply use the appropriate adapter and charge directly from the power supply, as Di2DiY suggests.

  12. This is a terrific post. Thank you for sharing. After reading all this, it would appear that there are no wireless options for D-fly and a SM-BMR1 – correct?

  13. Hi I’m trying to set the gears on my ultegra di2. but I cant get it to change smoothly when its connected to e-tubeproject
    it is in gear 4 on the bike but on the laptop I is saying its in gear 5 and how can I change this.

  14. I’m running Dura-ace DT-9070 Di2 with internal battery. The set-up works fine and I can enable syncro and semi-syncro modes via e-tube project. However in manual mode the RD refuses to change onto the smallest or second-smallest cogs when the FD is on the smaller cog. Is this a system design thing to stop cross-chaining? Can I override it?

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