I learned quite a bit about Shimano Di2 when I installed one of the first available Time Trial/Triathlon groupsets on my Cervelo P2. I’ve subsequently answered a lot of questions on forums and article comments, and elsewhere. In doing so, I realized that people have a lot of questions about Di2 and the answers are difficult to find. This lead me to create this article, to consolidate everything I know and have been asked into one location so people can find answers. If you can’t find what you’re looking for below, please leave a comment and I’ll do my best to help.
Index: There’s lots of info in this post, so here’s an Index to help you find specific sections:
- Di2 General Overview
- Compatibility: Between 6770 10-speed, 6780 11-speed, 9070 11-speed, first-gen 7970
- How to Check Battery Level
- How to Adjust Rear Derailleur Trim
- How to Adjust Front Derailleur Trim
- Dealer Installation Manuals
- Shimano E-tube Project Software – Change Settings and Update Firmware
- Chargers, PC USB Interfaces/Programmers
- Component Overviews
- Shift/Brake Levers
- Dedicated Shift Buttons
- Front Derailleurs
- Rear Derailleurs
- Display Units and ANT Bluetooth Wireless Communication Modules
- Batteries and Battery Mounts (Internal and External)
- Front Cable Connection A Junctions (with charger ports and LED status lights)
- Rear Cable Connect B Junctions
- Cables, Grommets, Cable Install Tools
- List of Components Needed to Build Your Own Di2 System
- Technical Details of the Di2 CANBUS protocol and signaling
System Overview: Shimano Di2 Dura-Ace 9150 and 9070 and Ultegra 6770 and 6870
The second generation Shimano Ultegra 6770/6870 and Dura-Ace 9070 “E-Tube” electronic bicycle shifting systems consist of battery-powered electric derailleurs activated by handlebar mounted push buttons. Power and shift commands are sent via a 2-wire CAN (Controller Area Network) datalink contained within a single cable housing. This design has several advantages over conventional mechanical shifting systems, the most notable of which are:
- Extremely low shifting effort, which generally results in more frequent shifts and therefore better gear ratio selection.
- Greatly improved shift quality, especially for the front derailleur chainrings, allowing shifting under full power with almost no chance of a dropped chain.
- Shifting is available at multiple positions on the handlebars, for example, at the end of the time trial aero bars, on the brake levers, up to in climbing position, and down low the sprint position.
- Automatic trimming of the front derailleur position as the rear derailleur moves back and forth between the smaller and bigger gears. This eliminates unintended contact (and noise) between the front derailleur and the chain.
- Lighter weight vs. equivalent mechanical system. The Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 9070 electronic groupset with internal battery weighs 2047 grams; the Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 mechanical groupset weighs 2074 grams (27 grams more than Di2.)
- Multi-Shift: Pressing and holding a rear derailleur shift button results in shifts through multiple gears. The rate of shifts can be configured using the PC computer interface cable and the free Shimano E-tube Project software.
- Synchronized Shifting: Starting with Dura-Ace 9150, automated Synchronized Sifting of the front derailleur is an option. Two SHIMANO Synchronized Shift modes will be available:
- Full SHIMANO Synchronized Shift: the front derailleur reacts based on the rear derailleur’s shift action. This essentially means that, when activated, there is no need for two separate shifters to control front and rear derailleurs, the two buttons on one shifter will control both derailleurs.
- Semi SHIMANO Synchronized Shift mode: the rear derailleur reacts based on the front derailleur’s shift action, shifting to the next most appropriate rear gear when the rider makes a front shift.
- R9120, R9170 – syncroshift enabled with firmware 3.2.0 or newer
- 6870, 9070 – syncroshift enabled with firmware 3.2.1 or newer
- 6770 – no syncroshift firmware update will be offered
Historic Info on the older first generation 5-wire Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 DA-7970 system and how it compares to the new E-tube 2-wire system:
Released in 2009, the 7970 operated using a very basic 5-wire electronic system. Each shift button was connected to a different wire; shorting the specific wires together controlled the derailleur upshifts and downshifts. Because the first generation 7970 used completely different technologies than the newer 2-wire systems, none of the components are cross-compatible. At this point, Shimano is not expected to offer any updates or new components using the first generation 7970 architecture; everything from now on will be based on the newer 2-wire E-tube design. The second generation design offers several advantages, which include: 1) smaller wire size, smaller connector size, waterproof connectors; 2) all switches can be reconfigured in software to send upshift or downshift commands to either the front or rear derailleur; 3) firmware updates can add new features (such as multi-shift) and compatibility with new components.
Compatibility: Dura-Ace 9070 and Ultegra 6770 / 6870 (and old 5-conducter 7970)
The confusing naming system used by Shimano makes it difficult to figure out what each component is, much less what is compatible between systems. Here are some compatibility guidelines:
- Nothing from the first generation (4-conductor / 5-conductor) Dura-Ace Di2 7970 system is compatible with any other newer system. It was replaced by the (2-conductor) E-tube systems. No parts are inter-operable between 7970 and any other Di2 System.
- In general, every electronic Di2 component is compatible between the Ultegra 6770, 6870, and Dura-Ace 9070 systems (see exceptions below.) This means that all of the road bike Ultegra/Dura-Ace dual control brake levers/shifts, time trial shifters, and climbing shifters can be used with either Ultegra 6770/6870 or Dura-Ace 9070 front and rear derailleurs. Any of the Ultegra/Dura-Ace controllers (A Junctions) can be used with either system. All components use the same cables and connectors.
- Firmware Update Required to Make Older Components Compatible with Newer Components: If you add a new component and it doesn’t work, update the firmware using the PC USB adapter and the Shimano E-tube Project Software for Windows.
- Synchronized Shifting and Bluetooth Wireless Units can be added to all E-tube Ultegra and Dura-Ace systems but the battery has to be upgraded to the BT-DN110 Internal Battery or BM-DN100 External Battery Mount. To add Bluetooth capability, a EW-WU101 or EW-WU111 inline transmitter must be added to road bikes and for mountain bikes, the SC-MT800 or SC-M9051 display/transmitter unit must be added.
- Compatibility Exceptions:
- Note 1 – Sprint Shifter Exception: The Sprint Shifter is the only exception for shifter incompatibility. It has a different wiring connector (and internal components) that can only plug into a unique/dedicated third port on the Dura-Ace ST-9070 Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters and also the ST-6870 Levers. There is no sprint shifter port on the ST-R785 Hydraulic Levers.
- Note 2 – Can’t mix 10-speed/11-speed front/rear Derailleurs: It is no longer possible to use a 10-speed front derailleur with an 11-speed rear derailleur (and 11-speed front with 10-speed rear.) See note farther below to read the history on this if you want all the messy details.
- Note 3 – Front A junction and Internal Battery: Since the February 2015 firmware update, the older SM-EW67-A-E Front Junction A is no longer compatible with the BTR2 Internal Battery because it does not have the charging port to charge the internal battery. The SM-EW90 Front Junction (with integrated charging port) should be used instead. The SM-EW67 still works with the external battery.
- Note 4 – Update the Firmware to make components compatible: If the firmware on all components is not updated to the latest version, some components may be not operate correctly with one another. So download the latest E-tube software and update everything and it should work.
- Note 5 – All Shifters work with all 10-speed and/or 11-speed Rear Derailleurs: All of the shifters are compatible with either the 10-speed Ultegra 6770 or 11-speed Ultegra 6870/Dura-Ace 9070 systems as long as they all have the latest firmware. The rear derailleur is the only component that “knows” or “cares” how many rear gears are available. The shifters only send upshift/downshift commands and do not “know” or “care” which gear is currently selected and how many total gears there are.
- Note 6 – SM-BTR1 External Battery and SM-BMR1 Mount firmware updates: The more expensive dedicate service tool (SM-PCE1 PC Interface) must be used to upgrade the firmware on the external battery/mount.The external battery and battery mount can not receive firmware upgrades via the SM-EW90 Front Junction A and the SM-BCR2 PC Interface/Battery Charger. (The SM-EW90 will work in a system with an external battery, but a firmware update can cause them to become incompatible until both are updated independently using the appropriate PC Interface and the Shimano E-Tube Project software.)
- See the Shimano E-tube compatibility chart version 3.4.3 for more details
Compatibility: 11-Speed Rear Derailleur and 10-speed sprockets/wheels
The 11-speed Dura-Ace 9070 and Ultegra 6870 rear derailleurs are designed exclusively for 11-speed rear sprockets and 11-speed Front Derailleurs. Shimano does not provide a way to recalibrate/reprogram them for a 10-speed setup. The sprocket spacing is slightly smaller and the overall range of travel slightly longer on 11-speed systems. If you have 10-speed wheels and 10-speed sprockets, you should use the 10-speed RD-6770 rear derailleur and a 10-speed FD-6770 front derailleur.
Similarly, a 10-speed RD-6770 rear derailleur should not be used with 11-speed sprockets. There will be chatter in some gears, and there might be slow-shifts or self-shifts.
It doesn’t matter which shifters are used; the shifters send upshift/downshift commands regardless of which derailleur config is being used. Shifters do not “know” or “care” which gear is currently selected and how many total gears there are.
Front Chain Rings: In general, most any front chain rings will work, rigid forged rings work best with Di2 due to high front derailleur shift forces. Shimano chain rings tend to be the best, but most others work as well. A 10-speed specific or 11-speed specific chain should be used, but the differences between them are minimal and can generally be mixed/matched without issue.
How to convert “non-upgradeable 10-speed only” wheels such as Zipp 900/Sub9 Disc Wheels to 11-speed: “the spacing between a Campy 11 and Shimano 11 is close enough that you can use the cassettes interchangeably. If you get a Campy free hub body, the 2 shims (part# is on the Zipp website, just search for Campagnolo 11) and a Campy cassette and you’re ready to ride with all 11 cogs available to use.” via slowtwitch.com
But it’s an emergency and I need to use a 10-speed wheel. . . In emergency situations, 11-speed rear derailleurs can be used with 10-speed sprockets. There will probably be chatter in some gears, and there might be slow-shifts or self-shifts. To setup an 11-speed rear derailleur for a 10-speed sprocket setup, adjust the mechanical limit screw so that it can’t shift into the missing 11th sprocket position, then follow the rear derailleur adjustment procedures listed below.
Included for very motivated individuals only: 10-speed front derailleurs can be used with 11-speed rear derailleurs if the shifters and battery have firmware installed from E-tube software version 2.5.2 or earlier. Shimano disabled support for this 11-speed and 10-speed cross-matching with later firmware updates. For informational purposes only, the details of how to regain compatibility are detailed below.
- Important Notice 2014-07-14: There is a compatibility issue with Shimano e-Tube software/firmware versions v2.6.0 and later that prevents 10-speed front derailleurs (FD-6770) from working with 11-speed rear derailleurs (RD-6870) and 11-speed front derailleurs (FD-6870) from working with 10-speed rear derailleurs (RD-6770). DO NOT UPDATE FIRMWARE using Shimano e-Tube software v2.6.0 or later if you are mixing an FD-6770 front derailleur and a RD-6870 11-speed rear derailleur, or a FD-6870 with a RD-6770.
- The problem component is the battery (external battery mounts SM-BMR1 and SM-BMR2, internal seat post battery SM-BTR2.) If you keep battery firmware at v2.0.6 or earlier, the system will continue to function properly. Shimano e-Tube Software v2.6.0 will update battery firmware to v3.0.5, and will not allow the RD-6870 to work with a FD-6770 setup.
- If the battery firmware is updated to 3.0.5, it CAN NOT be rewritten back to the older version. You will need to need to replace a derailleur so that both are 6770 10-speed or so that that both are 6870 11-speed. (The other option is to get get a battery with the older firmware and never update it.)
- Here’s a link to the “last known good version” of the Shimano e-Tube software to work with a mixed 10-speed/11-speed system: E-tube_Proj_V_2_5_2.zip Use this version and do not connect to the internet when using it so that E-tube can’t check for updates when open.
- To roll-back newer versions of battery and shifter firmware, install E-tube version 2.5.2 and made a copy of “C:\ProgramData\E-tube Project\FW” which has all the firmwares packaged in that version of E-tube. Next, install the latest version of E-tube. Then copy all the firmwares from the the 2.2.3 version back to the same location “C:\ProgramData\E-tube Project\FW” for the latest version (note: ProgramData is a hidden directory, click here for details on how to view it.). Next, the trick is to find the firmware you want to downgrade (pretty easy from the name and version in the file name), and then rename it to the same name as the latest version, but increment the last version digit by one. Then connect to the bike with E-tube (without an internet connection) and it will identify that a firmware upgrade is available for that component and allow you to do the firmware “upgrade” to the older version of firmware. Now exit E-tube and then rename the firmware file back to original to prevent the issue in future. E-tube will then try to upgrade again but just don’t let it do that. This should get a bike that did nothing (not even enter adjustment mode) to a fully working state by reverting the battery and shifters. Running latest firmware in derailleurs seems to be fine. (thanks to commenter vosadrain)
- It will not be possible to charge the BTR2 internal battery using the BCR2 USB charger unless you also downgrade the firmware of the BCR2 USB charger as well.
- Note however that latest E-tube software will say the setup is unsupported and will not allow programming. To do programming, disconnect the internal battery and connect a spare external battery. This allows making settings changes. To program the BTR2 itself, I just connect to the BTR2 by itself (no other components) and the E-tube software will allow firmware changes to it. Or try using the 2.5.2 version of E-tube.
- Alternatively, buy a Di2DIY internal seat post battery kit and you will not have to go through the firmware downgrading. The kit makes it possible to run all components with the latest E-tube firmware. Also worth noting some firmware updates were done to fix power distribution errors in the FPGA’s that would allow the batteries to drain down when the bike was just sitting.
Checking Battery Charge Level:
A single battery charge should give at least 1500 miles of riding. Most riders will not need to charge the battery more than twice a year.
To check the battery charge remaining, press and hold any shifting switch for 0.5 seconds or more. The amount of battery charge remaining will be indicated by the light on Front Controller A Junction.
- 100% remaining: Illuminates green (for 2 seconds)
- 50% remaining: Flashes green (5 times)
- 25% remaining: Illuminates red (for 2 seconds)
- 0% remaining: Flashes red (5 times)
When the battery charge is low, first the front derailleur will stop operating, and then the rear derailleur will stop operating. When the battery charge has been fully spent, the derailleurs will be fixed at the last gear shifting position. If the battery indicator is illuminated red, it is recommended that you recharge the battery as soon as possible.
Adjusting the Rear Derailleur Trim:
If you switch between multiple rear wheels, it’s very likely that the sprockets on different wheels won’t be in exactly the same relative position to the rear derailleur, resulting in that annoying clicking sound as the chain makes contact with an adjacent sprocket. Follow the steps below to properly align the rear derailleur with the rear sprockets.
- Shift the rear derailleur to the 5th sprocket position. Press the button at the junction (A) of the SM-EW67-A-E until the red LED illuminates in order to switch to rear derailleur adjustment mode. Note that if you keep pressing the button after the red LED has illuminated, protection recovery operation will begin.
- If shifting switch is pressed once while the initial setting condition is active, the guide pulley will move one step toward the inside. If shifting switch (Y) is pressed once, the guide pulley will move one step toward the outside.
- Note: The guide pulley can move 15 steps inward and 15 steps outward from the initial position, for a total of 31 positions.
- Note: When adjusting, the guide pulley will overrun slightly and then move back in an exaggerated movement so that you can check the adjustment direction. When checking the positions of the guide pulley and the sprocket, check at the position where the guide pulley finally stops.
- While turning the front chainwheel, operate shifting switch to move the guide pulley toward the inside until the chain touches the 4th sprocket and makes a slight noise.
- Next, operate shifting switch 4 times to move the guide pulley toward the outside by 4 steps to the target position.
- Press the button at junction (A) until the red LED turns off in order to switch from rear derailleur adjustment mode to gear shifting mode. Shift to each gear and check that no noise is generated at any gear position. If fine adjustment is needed, switch back to adjustment mode and readjust the rear derailleur.
- Note: if you have customized your shifters and swapped buttons, this will change which shifter and buttons control the micro-adjustments. Also, if you hit the wrong buttons while trying to set the FD trim, you can actually alter the setup of your RD. Be certain that you’re hitting the correct adjustment buttons.
- If you have a Garmin or similar head unit and a SM-EWW01 ANT module, the display will automatically switch into derailleur trim display when you activate that mode (i.e. by pressing the button at the junction (A) of the SM-EW67-A-E.) It will give you the trim position in either + or – 12 positions. When switching wheels, simply take note which position suits which wheel/sprocket/trainer, and trim to that level each time you change. This removes the guesswork and makes changing from wheel to trainer simple.
Note on FD-6870 Front Derailleur Trim:
The FD-6870 trim adjustment effects the auto-trim positions. The adjustment feature is accessible via either the A-Junction box, or the “Front derailleur adjustment setting” in the e-tube software, and should be used only after you have already set the physical inner/outer limit screws. So for example, if the FD outer plate rubs the chain when using the 6th largest cog, you would want to adjust the FD trim outward a couple ticks. However, you can only perform this adjustment while in the big-ring/big-cog combination. Etube forces the derailleurs into this maximum cross-chained position, whereas during the manual method you must shift to these positions yourself. (Thanks to commenter Bryan B for the info.)
The dealer’s manuals contain the most detailed information available from Shimano. If you’re looking for detailed installation instructions, check here:
- Shimano Ultegra 6770 Dealer’s Manual: http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Ultegra/UltegraDi2/6770Di2_DM_EN_v1_m56577569830773882.pdf
- Shimano Ultegra 6870 Dealer’s Manual: http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-UL0001-00-ENG.pdf
- Shimano Dura-Ace 9070 Dealer’s Manual: http://si.shimano.com/pdf/dm/DM-DA0001-00-ENG.pdf
- Shimano Alfine Di2: http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-AL0001-03-ENG.pdf
Shimano E-tube Project Configuration and Firmware Update Software for Windows:
Shimano E-tube Project Wireless for iOS and Android: Announced on April 15, 2016 but as of yet unreleased, these apps will allow configuration of shift profiles (multi-shift on/off, multi-shift delay between shifts, shifter button assignments) and firmware updates over Bluetooth. To function, a Shimano Di2 Bluetooth Adapter, such as the MT800 digital display, is required.
Shimano E-tube Project Windows PC Software: This free software is used to update the firmware of all components. It works with the SM-BCR2 Charger + USB Adapter and the SM-PCE1 Diagnostic Adapter. The software is used to change the configuration of each shift button / lever (any can be programmed to upshift or downshift either the front or the rear derailleur.) It can also be used to enable multi-shift (multi-shift is where the shifter is held and the rear derailleur shifts through multiple gears until the shifter is released.) The delay between of the gear changes during multi-shifting can also be adjusted. The software is available from http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/
Older versions of the e-tube software are available from these links: 2.5.2
PC & Mobile Interfaces, Chargers, and Software:
SM-BCR1 Battery Charger: This is used to charge the external battery. The part number for the battery charger wall cord is SM-BCC1.
SM-BCR2 Charging and PC Connection: for SM-EW90-A 3-port and SM-EW90-B 5-port A Junctions. This plugs into a special port on the side of the A junctions (which is covered by a rubber flap.) This adapter charges the internal battery when first plugged into the A junction; it must be powered by a standard USB Wall charger (such as that used for an Apple iPhone) or a PC that is powered-on. If the Shimano E-Tube Project Software is launched on the Windows PC with the SM-BCR2 attached, the SM-BCR2 will switch from charging mode to configuration mode. It must be detached from the computer and reattached to switch back to charging mode.
- It takes about 2 hours to charge the internal battery.
- Amber light=charging.
- Light turns off when done.
- If the Amber light does not come on when plugged in, this indicates battery is not discharged enough to charge.
- Light flashing indicates something is wrong, like trying to charge a external battery through a BMR.
Hacking the SM-BCR2 to have a standard Di2 cable connector: If your 3-port or 5-port junction is inaccessible for charging, there is an alternative hack method to connect it to the system through a standard Di2 port. With basic soldering skills you can hack the BCR2 to be used with any setup. Buy any length EW-SD50 wire, cut off one end. Cut the wire on the output side of the BCR2. Splice the two wires together, so that the output wire of the BCR2 is now a standard Di2 connector. The charger has an inner (white) and outer (shield) wire; connect the inner white wire to the SD50 red wire; connect the charger outer shield wire to the SD50 black wire. You will then be able to plug the BCR2 into any Di2 port. Or use a SM-JC40 junction B and another length of EW-SD50 wire and go through the RD (by using the SM-JC40 to connect the rear derailleur, new output wire of the EW-SD50, and the wire that ordinarily connect the rest of the system to the rear derailleur.) Thanks to @Di2diy for the info.
SM-PCE1: This PC Configuration and Diagnostics adapter will not charge the internal battery. It offers the same configuration options as the SM-BCR2, but also add some advanced diagnostic and troubleshooting features that the SM-BCR2 does not have. It attaches to via the standard E-tube wire (just like the EW-SD50 cables) rather than to a dedicated port on the side of the front A junction.
Bluetooth and E-tube Apps for Apple iOS and Android: Bluetooth wireless modules are available to allow system settings to be adjusted via the mobile applications that connect via Bluetooth Adapters.
The confusing naming system used by Shimano makes it difficult to figure out what each component is, much less what it does and how it fits into an a complete Di2 system. Here’s an overview of all the major Ultegra and Dura-Ace Di2 components.
Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters (a.k.a. Brifters):
ST-6770 Ultegra Road Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters: The Ultegra version can be used with the climbing shifters. They are sold in in left/right pairs and are also available separately.
ST-9070 Dura-Ace Road Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters: The main advantages these have over the ST-6770 version is slightly lighter weight and compatibility with the low-mount sprint shifters. As like the Ultegra version, they are compatible with the climbing shifters. They also have hidden button under the rubber hoods that can activate screen changes on cycling computers from Garmin, Magellan, Pioneer, and Shimano (Shimano SM-EWW01 ANT Wireless Broadcast Module required.)
ST-9071 Dura-Ace Time Trial/Triathlon Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters: These levers provide shifting from the pursuit bar position on time trial bikes. There is no Ultegra option offered at this time. These are available as left/right pairs, or can be ordered separately. These do have a permanently attached wire with a male end for connection the the SM-EW90 front “A” junction. Combined weight both levers: 117 grams.
ST-R9160 (standard cable brakes) and ST-R9180 (hydraulic brakes) Time Trial Dual Control Brake Levels/Shifters: These are the lower-profile shifters offered with the newer Dura-Ace R9150 groupset.
ST-6871 Ultegra Time Trial/Triathlon Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters: Ultegra version of the ST-9071 Dura-Ace shifters. Slightly heavier and much less expensive than the Dura-Ace version. Combined weight both levers: 142 grams.
ST-R785 Hydraulic Road Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters: These hydraulic road shifters are compatible with both the climbing and sprint shifters. These are compatible with the SM-RT99 centerlock 140mm and 160mm rotors and WH-RX31 wheelset (which as no standard rim brake track.) These require the BR-785 dual piston hydraulic disc calipers. They do not have the special wiring port required for the SW-R610 Sprint Shifters and a SM-EW90-B 5-port junction A is required to use the SW-R600 climbing shifter.
ST-6870 Ultegra Road Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters: These road shifters are compatible with both the climbing and sprint shifters.
SW-R671 Dura-Ace 2-Button Time Trial/Triathlon Bar End Shifters: These shifters are installed on the end of time trial aero bars. By default, the left shifter upshifts/downshifts the front derailleur; the right controls the rear derailleur. For both, the lower button upshifts into a harder gear and the upper button downshifts to an easier gear. This can be changed using the Shimano E-tube Project software; the functions of the left and right sifters can be switched with one another as well. These are available in pairs or separately.
SW-9071 Dura-Ace 1-Button Time Trial/Triathlon Bar End Shifters: These shifters have only one button each and are intended to control only the rear derailleur, with one sending the upshift command and the other the downshift command. (I personally think this version is absolutely worthless. Why have 2 SW-9071 shifters at twice the price and twice the weight, when you can just buy a single SW-R671 Right shifter instead.)
SW-R600 Climbing/PAVE Shifter: This shifter is for road bikes and is mounted on the upper horizontal portion of the handlebar, or any other location comfortable for the rider. They can be used in addition to the Dual Control Brake Lever/Shifter, or can be used on their own by plugging directly into a SM-EW90-A 3-Port Junction or SM-EW90-B Dura-Ace 5-Port Junction.
SW-R610 Dura-Ace Sprint Shifter: This is the only component using a unique wiring connector; it is only compatible with the ST-9070 Dura-Ace and Ultegra ST-6870 Road Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters. Unlike all of the other shifters, the sprint shifters do not contain a circuit board; they do not show up as components on the CAN bus network. Instead, the sprint shifters are simple momentary switches that activate the circuit board on the host Dual Control Brake Lever/Shifter. The host dual control lever is what sends the shift command. (Note: Any momentary switch can be attached to the sprint shifter port on the Dual Control Levers by splicing into a standard EW-SD50 wire to act as remote shifters.)
Alfine SW-S705 Right Flat-Bar Shifter: Reported to work with other non-Alfine setups.
SW-R9160 Time Trial bar-end shifters (pair): These are-end shifters directly control the rear derailleur, with one for the upshfit and one for the downshift. The front derailleur is controlled automatically via automatic Synchronized Shifting. These shifters require the BT-DN110 Internal Battery for synchronized shifting.
SW-R9150 Climbing shifters (pair): These tiny climbing shifters are about as small as the sprint shifters, but can be directly connected to a junction box and do not have to be connected as slave buttons to a brake/shift lever special port. They come with plastic mounts to make it easier to attach to bars beneath bar tape. They are ideal for synchronized shifting, with one controlling the upshifts and the other downshifts. These shifters require the BT-DN110 Internal Battery for synchronized shifting.
FD-6770: Ultegra Front Derailleur
FD-6870: Ultegra Front Derailleur, pretty much identical to the FD-6770 but with a slightly larger diameter adjusting screw (to better dissipate the shifting forces).
FD-9070: Dura-Ace Front Derailleur
FD-R9150: Dura-Ace Front Derailleur for 9150 systems; features slightly reduced weight vs. 9070.
RD-6770: Ultegra 10-Speed Rear Derailleur, compatible with gears up to 28 teeth.
RD-6870: Ultegra 11-Speed Rear Derailleur, compatible with gears up to 32 teeth (for the GS version).
RD-9070: Dura-Ace 11-Speed Rear Derailleur, lighter weight version on which the RD-6870 is based.
RD-R9150: Dura-Ace 11-Speed Rear Derailleur with 30-tooth sprocket compatibility and modified “Shadow RD” geometry to keep the mechanism close to the rear wheel to help avoid damage in the event of an accident.
Alfine SG-S505 and SG-S705: The Shimano series targets comfort and urban bikes. It uses an 8-speed (505) or 11-speed (705) internal epicyclic rear hub. It is believed to be compatible with other Di2 ETube components but this has not been verified.
Display / Wireless Communication:
SM-EWW01 ANT Wireless Broadcast Module: This module wirelessly broadcasts Di2 data (front and rear gear selection details, gear ratio, battery life) to a cycling computer using the ANT protocol. It is compatible with Dura-Ace 9070, Ultegra 6870 Di2 and Ultegra 6770 E-tube road shifting systems. SM-EWW01 plugs into the E-tube wiring system between existing components. It has an 2 wiring ports, so it can be connected between a front shifter and the Front Junction A, or at the rear derailleur (between rear derailleur and Etube wire.) It transmits through a proprietary private ANT wireless protocol, which may eventually become a standard public ANT+ protocol. It is powered by the same Di2 system battery. It is currently compatible with the Garmin Edge 1000, Mio 505, and the PRO SCIO cycling computers (with more to come.) The hidden buttons under the hoods of the 9070 shifter levers will switch screens on the cycling computer when paired with this module. It does not currently allow for shifting control from a cycling computer/device and it is not clear that this functionality will ever be offered. The SM-EWW01 is 38mm long, 25mm wide, 12.5mm high, and weighs less than 5 grams. It does not come with any wires; 1 wire would have to be added if adding this module to an existing Di2 system.
EW-WU101 and EW-WU111 ANT and Bluetooth Wireless Broadcast Modules: These modules are similar to the SM-WEE01 but also include Bluetooth capabilities in addition to ANT capabilities. They require the BT-DN110 battery or the BM-DN100 Battery Mount and cannot be used with the SM-EW67 Front A Junction.
SC705 Alfine Display Unit: This unit displays the battery level and the rear derailleur gear selection. It is powered by the system battery and has a port for the SM-BCR2 internal battery charger / USB diagnostic tool. It is primarily designed for Alfine systems (both 8 505-series and 11 speed 705-series). It is compatible with Ultegra and Dura-Ace Di2.
MT800 Digital Display with Bluetooth: Primarily aimed at XT mountain bike applications, this display allows toggling between the 3 synchronized shift modes (where both derailleurs are intelligently coordinated in unison by one pair of buttons, so no need for discrete shifting of the front derailleur.) It also shows battery level, gear position, shift mode and FOX iRD suspension position. The Digital Display required the new BT-DN110 battery. Existing Di2 XT systems are upgradable to be compatible with the new digital display after battery upgrade and firmware upgrade. This display has 3-port Di2 Cable junction and charging port integrated into the back and serves as a Front A Junction.
Batteries and Battery Mounts:
The batteries contain the main controllers for the system. It is therefore required to upgrade the battery to get features released in new versions of Di2 (such as Synchronized Shifting that automatically controls the front derailleur based on rear derailleur shifting.)
SM-BTR1 External Battery: This external battery must be used with the SM-BMR1 battery mount. It is removed from the mount and charged using a dedicated charger.
SM-BMR1 and SM-BMR2 External Battery Mount: This mount attached to bottle cage mount points or other dedicated frame mounts. It is available in 3 different mount lengths: -I (intermediate length), -S (short length), -L (long length). The SM-BMR2 is an updated version of the SM-BMR1.
SM-BTR2 Internal Battery: This battery is typically mounted in the seat post or seat tube of the frame. It is charged by plugging the SM-BCR2 Charging Cable/PC Adapter into the SM-EW90-A or SM-EW90-B Front A junctions.
BT-DN110 Internal Battery: This battery is required for Bluetooth wireless units and road groupset Synchronized Shifting functionality.
BM-DN100 External Battery Mount: This battery is required for Bluetooth wireless units and road groupset Synchronized Shifting functionality.
Front A Junctions:
SM-EW67-A-E Ultegra 3-Cable Junction: This is the original front junction with 2 integrated cables to connect to the dual control brake lever/shifters. The male cable ends on this Front A Junction will not mate directly to the male cable ends on any of the Time Trial/Triathlon dual control brake shift levers or shifters; SM-JC41 Rear B Junctions can be used to connect this front A junction to TT/Triathlon shifters. This Junction works only with External Batteries, not Internal Batteries.
SM-EW90-A Dura-Ace 3-Port Junction: This front “A” junction is most commonly used in road bike setups. 2 ports connect to the dual control brake / shift levers; the third port is for the cable that leads to the bottom bracket junction.
SM-EW90-B Dura-Ace 5-Port Junction: This front “A” junction is primarily used in the Time Trial / Triathlon setups. 2 of the port are for the brake/shifter dual control levers, 2 of the ports are for the aer0 bar bar-end shifters, and the 5th port is for the cable that runs to the bottom bracket (where the B junction joins the wires from the front A junction, front derailleur, rear derailleur, and battery.)
EW-RS910 Internal Bar-end Junction: This junction is installed into the end of a bar or in a dedicated frame port. It facilitates internal cable routing.
SM-JC41 Internal Junction: This version has the exact functionality as the SM-JC40 external version, but doesn’t have the mounting tab for being bolted to the bottom bracket or wrapping the extra cable lengths. It has 2 ports on one end and 2 on the other, making it more compact. In addition to being located at the bottom bracket to connect the A junction, battery, front derailleur, and rear derailleur, it can be used at the handle bars to join multiple shifters prior to being connected to the A Junction.
SM-JC40 External Junction: This version is intended to be attached to the frame using the bolt that is commonly located underneath the bottom bracket housing. This junction contains no electronics; it’s sole purpose is to join 4 connectors together, which are usually the wire from the front A junction, the battery, the front derailleur, and the rear derailleur. There are wire holders above the housing to capture the extra wire length by wrapping it back-and-forth.
Cables, Grommets, and Cable Remove/Install Tool:
EW-SD50 Cables: These cables connect the front A junction, the battery, the front derailleur, and the rear derailleur to the rear B junction, which is typically located near the bottom bracket (near the cranks.) These are available in lengths of 300mm, 350mm, 400mm, 500mm, 550mm, 600mm, 700mm, 750mm, 950mm, 1000mm, 1200mm, 1400mm.
SM-GM01 Grommet: These round grommets are used when drilling round holes for internal cable routing, or with existing round holes. The required hole diameter is 6mm (6mm = .236 inches. Use a 7/32-inch drill bit and then “wallow-out” the hole to make it a little bigger; a 1/4-inch drill bit will work but is just slightly larger than necessary.)
SM-GM02 Grommet: These 7mm x 8mm oval shape grommets are used in some situations / frame designs.
Shimano TL-EW02 Ultegra DI2 E-Tube Tool: This tool is used to connect and disconnect the Etube wires. They are extremely difficult to connect/disconnect by hand, and pliers or other tools can damage the wires. Don’t get this confused with the TL-EW01 tool, which is for the older 5-wire 7970 cables. (My Dura-Ace TT Dual Control Levers came with one of these tools, but no other components did.)
Common Questions (via Shimano):
Note: it is not necessary to replace the FD from upgrading from 10-speed to 11-speed.
What Components do I need to put together my own Di2 system?
Because of the huge number and variety of components, it’s very difficult to figure out what is actually necessary and what is optional. So here is a list, for the setup I recommend: Ultegra 6870. It starts from the handlebars and works backwards. (This assumes both front and rear derailleurs, but you actually don’t have to have both; you can pick one or the other and only the corresponding front shifter to go along with it.)
- Any Type of Shifters / Shift Buttons. The Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters are not required. You can get the just the climbing shifters or Triathlon/TT bar-end shifters, and then potentially add the Dual Control Levers/Shifters at a later point. (The only exception is the Sprint shifters, which require specific Dual Control Levers/Shifters with special ports as noted elsewhere in this article.) Amazon.com link
- EW-SD50 Wires 1 and 2 between the front shifters and the Front Junction A (0nly for some shifters). This is a bit confusing, because some of the front shifters come with wiring attached to them and some of them require purchasing separate wires. In general, most of the stand-alone shifters come with wiring, as do the TT/Triathlon dual control shifters/levers, but the road dual control levers do not. Amazon.com link
- Front Junction A. I recommend the SM-EW90-B 5-port front junction A as it provides the most upgrade flexibility; get the 3-port option only if you’re positive you’re never going to add more shifting components. The older SM-EW67-A-E has 2 wires built-in to connect with each of the dual control shift/brake levers; it doesn’t offer much flexibility or compatibility with a TT/Triathlon setup or adding additional shifters. Amazon.com link
- EW-SD50 Wire 3 between the Front Junction A and the 4-port Rear Junction B connector. Amazon.com link
- EW-SD50 Wire 4 between the Rear Junction B and the Front Derailleur. Amazon.com link
- EW-SD50 Wire 5 between the Rear Junction B and the Battery. Amazon.com link
- EW-SD50 Wire 6 between the Rear Junction B and the Rear Derailleur. Amazon.com link
- Rear Junction B: This is where the wire from the front of the bike is connected to 3 output wires leading to the front derailleur, rear derailleur, and battery. SM-JC40 is for external wiring, SM-JC41 is for internal. Amazon.com link
- Grommets for any place where the wire goes into the frame through a drilled hole. Amazon.com link
- Front Derailleur. I recommend the Ultegra FD-6870 for 11-speed builds or the FD-6770 for 10-speed builds. The Dura-Ace FD-9070 is pretty much identical, just slightly (41g) lighter and 11-speed only. (I do not recommend the Ultegra FD-6770 unless you have a 10-speed setup, because of firmware compatibility issues with 11-speed rear derailleurs. Also, it is an older design than the FD-6870, so it is larger and offers slightly less shifting force.) Amazon.com link
- Battery and Charger. Internal or external, depending on the build. If you have to skill/time/money-to-pay-someone to get everything internal, I highly recommend that option. The SM-BTR2 internal battery has more advanced integrated electronics and is better for firmware upgrades with the SM-BCR2 internal battery charger/PC tool. If you go with the SM-BTR1 external battery, you will need the SM-BMR1 external battery mount and SM-BCR1 external battery charger. Amazon.com link
- Rear Derailleur. I recommend the Ultegra RD-6870 for a new build if you have 11-speed compatible wheels with 11-speed sprockets, or the Ultegra RD-6770 if you have 10-speed wheels/sprockets. The system must be match front and rear derailleurs (both 6870 11-speed or both 6770 10-speed.) Amazon.com link
- TL-EW02 Etube Wire Remove/Install Tool: It takes quite a bit of force to snap the wires in/out. You may think you can get it seated properly with just your fingers, only to then have the wire come loose because it wasn’t fully seated. It’s a good idea to keep one in your saddle bag. Amazon.com link
What wire lengths do I need? This question is impossible to answer correctly, as it’s highly dependent on the frame size and configuration. What I recommend is running string between the component mounting locations to measure the lengths. Be sure to add some extra length, as I find that wires seem to come up short pretty frequently, even when “adding a little extra” to start with. Nothing is more frustrating that having a wire that is 25mm too short. I recommend ordering a few extra wires of multiple lengths and then returning the unneeded/unused wires. As noted above, the standard wire lengths are 300mm, 350mm, 400mm, 500mm, 550mm, 600mm, 700mm, 750mm, 950mm, 1000mm, 1200mm, 1400mm. Do not cut/splice these wires; the connectors on the end of the wires are very small in diameter to start with and you’ll end up with a splice that is larger and less waterproof than you started with.
Acknowledgements: Special thanks to Di2diy for his continued help in the comments. Check out his Ebay store for custom Di2 batteries, harnesses, and components.
Technical Details of the Di2 CANBUS protocol and signaling
Thanks to commenter Ghislain for the details: “I reversed engineered the signal going to the RD. Since I did not have a special tap connector, I could only look at the actual signals in open loop (RD wire disconnected) on the wire going to the RD using an oscilloscope. First, I found that shift up and down are multiplexed on the same wire. A shift down would generate a positive 100 msec clean 8 volt pulse (varies between 50 msec to 500 msec depending on how long you hold the shifter). On the same wire, a shift up would generate a series of 2 msec pulses that would last the same time of a shift down pulse. Therefore, the RD has enough intelligence to discriminate between the 2 types of pulses. When you hold the button on junction A, a 140 msec pulse is generated. But since my RD wire was disconnected, the RD would not go in adjust mode.”
How does a person find out a price and order an item on this page. Click on a product and doesn’t show any price or where it can be found to place an order for >ST-9071 Dura-Ace Time Trial/Triathlon Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters: Cant find the selling price or an ordering page.
This is not a store nothing is being sold, just a place to exchang information. Try your local bike shop.
Thanks for all of the great information regarding compatibility issues with Di2. I had talked to shops, internet research, spoke to Shimano rep… but you have laid out the details in a straight forward way that clears the confusion and misinformation that is out there. Forever grateful for the work you put into this matter.
I am writing to you from Brazil, could you please give some Help !!
I do have a TT Bike with duraace 9070 Groupset (trek 9.9 to of line), I am planning to buy a new road bike and use this group set on it (change the groupset from TT bike to road Bike, the only thing I want to add is a Ultegra Di2 shifter which my TT bike does not have it, Am I correct ? is that simple ? the Ultegra di2St Shifters will work fine with the Durace RD AND FD ?
Yes, as simple as that.
thank you very much !!!
There’s new firmware for the eww-01 that transmits the signal from the hidden buttons on the top of the 9070 shifters.
just brought DI2 but not sure about the battery .The bike originally had a external battery mount and the set I brought now has a seat post battery but the external mount base come with the purchase just wondering if this is going to be a problem
Carlton, I have the Ultegra Di2 aerobar shifters (SW-R671) which is a 10 speed. I want to add the brake lever shifters (ST-6871). What do I need to do this? I assume I need a (1) 5 junction box, (2) additional cabling, (3) the ST-6871 shifters x2. The ST-6871 is an 11-speed though right, so is compatibility a problem with the 10speed SW-R671? Thanks so much!
You can not mix 10&11 speed. You can use a 5 port EW 90 junction A or A 3 port with a JC41.
OK so I getting the ST-6871 does me no good. Is there a 10speed version of the brake levers? Or is my only option to completely upgrade to the 11speed?
I upgraded eTube to the last version (2.8….) and I get an error when I connect my bike…anyone has the issue?
What’s the error message?
I try to translate…I got it whe it starts to install the new firmware. ‘An error as occurred, try disconnect and reconnect SM-BCR2, if error remains your SM-BCR2 may be broken’ (something like that).
I will retry and I’ll be more precise
So its saying the charger/updater is bad. Be sure it is updated with the proper version of e tube project before you try to update the bike.
it is 2.8.1 version…
It searched for updates when I started it
Rame problemi do you fine a solution?
I think mine did that at first because I had the battery mounted. I didn’t know I was supposed to hook up to the mount with the battery OUT. Did you try that?
Did any one else have trouble pairing the SM-EWW01 D-fly wireless unit to a Garmin? The manual says it remains in pairing mode for “tens of seconds” after connecting the battery or connecting both wires. I eventually managed to get mine to pair and it’s working well, but it took lots of plugging and unplugging of the wires while simultaneously pressing search on the Garmin. I wonder if they meant tenths of seconds? I was ready to give up and wait for a firmware update or something when it finally paired.
I installed the D-Fly without problems. Also updating my Ultegra DI2 10 speed tot the latest firmware went flawless.
How did you update the firmware? Do you have to have apc? Will it not work with MAC?
Information on the etube software is in the post along with the download link. It requires Microsoft Windows.
I could not get it to pair until I just pressed both right shifter levers like I do to check battery level. Did that and it paired right up.
Is the earlier 7970 Di2 supported by e-Tube? I’m guessing not? I have a TT bike with 7970 group, everything is functioning fine, just wondering that’s all.
Great info! I have a 6870 fr/rear D with external battery and EW67. My FD low is stripped so I got a 9070 FD. Installed but doesn’t shift. Do I need to update the battery firmware or is all 6770/6870/9070 mixing broken? Like I said, been running 6870 FD/RD no issues for over a year. Thank for any insight!
Note on FD-6870 Front Derailleur Trim – Can you explain this a bit more? I’m setting up 6870 and I get a bit of chain rub when using 34/12 and 34/11. Would I adjust the trim to be outwards several clicks? The manual doesn’t do a good job of explaining how it works. They just say to set it so there is a specific clearance, but that doesn’t seem to help.
Hi, my bike is on the ultegra di2 10 speed. My rear derailleur has broken and I’m told the 10 speed rear mech is now discontinued. What rear mech can I use now?
I was in the same situation a few weeks ago. it’s not good i’m afraid.
I ended up buying a used one from eBay as neither 6870 (new 11s ultegra di2), 9070 (new 11s dura ace di2) or 7070 (old, 10s, dura ace di2) are compatible.
I should add I replaced it with the same 6770 10s di2 rear mech. Nothing else seemed likely to work. Hopefully you can find one else you’re looking at replacing several parts.
I too damaged my Ultegra10 speed Di2 rear derailleur and could not find a replacement anywhere in the World. Shimano say they stopped making these some 18 months ago. I now have to replace the rear and front derailleurs, wheels, sprocket and chain with the new 11 speed units. My bike is only 18 months old, and I have noticed that new 10 speed Di2 bikes are still being sold in the bike shops.
Don’t Shimano need to ensure that parts are available for a reasonable period of time before discontinuing the manufacture like this, probably leaving a lot of people in a position where they have to spend big money to make their bikes roadworthy again?
There’s a couple on eBay – http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Shimano-Ultegra-RD-6770-Di2-Short-Cage-Rear-Derailleur-New-2014-/271713970531?pt=US_Derailleurs_Rear&hash=item3f436a2963 and http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SHIMANO-ULTEGRA-DI2-RD-6770-10s-Electronic-Rear-Derailleur-Road-Bike-NEW-/381097972706?pt=US_Derailleurs_Rear&hash=item58bb3593e2
There are several for sale on ebay
I can’t see any 10 speed Ultegra DI2 on ebay. Plenty of manual ones and one or two Dura Ace, and plenty of the new11 speed ones, but no 10 speed.
The issue really is that Shimano is leaving customers in the lurch after having a captive market. And think of the devaluation of all the 10 speed Di2 bikes out there. Would you buy a used 10 speed Di2 bike if you knew that the derailleurs are not maintainable and that to get the bike back on the road you would need to spend nearly the cost of a new bike to upgrade the whole drive train to Shimano’s 11 speed? Also, how much trust can you put on the 11 speed, when it is quite possible that Shimano will soon upgrade to 12 speed and make the 11 speed Di2 obsolete as well? Sounds like abuse of market power to me.
Try eBay US
a search on RD 6770 turns up 3 new items item # 381097972706 is $200 looks like the best deal. Yes its true that manufacturers discontinue old models for new products Shimano is still supporting this model including warranties/replacements, perhaps your LBS is the issue, I have had no issue getting parts for any older mechanical groups including 9 speed, all the parts are still available for the 10 speed di2, if your LBS is willing to special order. Good luck.
Thank you, Di2diy.
It seems that the problem is here in Australia and the UK. Its not just the bike shop. I have tried to source this as well, and Shimano here advised that the rear Di2 is not being made and will not be available.
I have upgraded to 11 speed just to get the bike back on the road, but i will not buy Di2 ever again.
Hi, I have an original Di2 Dura-ace system (7970 10sp) and I wish to find out if there is a wireless unit (or adaptor) out there for use with a Garmin1000 (?). I have looked at a couple of units but the connections are all wrong 🙁 ….hope you can advice, thanks
Sorry, this isn’t possible. You’ll need new Di2.
arrgh! my S Works Disc brake fell over this morning and scratched my 7 month old Di2 9070 front shifter and rear mech. any advice on repairing or a place that would do this. it is only cosmetic and IT WILL happen again but I am anal about a mint bike. i know carbon bike solutions do a bit but they messed my 7090 rear mech up two years ago after a crash.
I have no idea how to repair the cosmetic damage. I think your best bet is to buy new components and sell the used ones on eBay.
Would it be possible to splice an lengthen a 1400 mm wire ?
( great site btw)
I just purchased a New P5 with the di2 system. I want to add a shifter on the lower bars, like the P3, but I have the Magura hydraulic brakes and there is no button assy for these. I dont mind fabricating the mount but do not know which switches or buttons that will work with the system. It came with a 5 port junction box. Please advise if this is possible from a “wiring and software” side and I will figure out the mounting. Thanks for your help. Jim G
Jim G, I have some experience with this exact situation. Feel free to email me at R_jbrandt at msn dot com
Can you recharge the battery (from say a Son dynohub) while cycling?
Can any one help trouble shooting a Shimano Ultegra Di2 10sp issue? Right shifter won’t change gears (up or down) rear dérailleur works (using test button) can shift between chain rings, certain the battery is charged (chainring would be first to go if it was flat). Was fine last Wednesday, now stuck in one gear. (Could still climb the Northern end of Glenvale Rd! That HURT!) Hoping it’s not a cable issue as I believe 10spd cables may be obsolete. Help!
First check the cable going to the lever with the plug tool to be sure it is “clicked” in all the way. If not the cable you will need a SM PCE1 to do diagnosis. All e tube wires are comparable.
Do you know the weight comparison between the Ultegra Mechanical Group and the Ultegra 6770 Di2 (internal set up with seat post battery) ?
I currently have the mechanical Ultegra 6800 10 speed and I am thinking of upgrading to the Ultegra 6770 Di2 10 speed (later will maybe switch to 11 speed)
I am using Ultegra Di2(6770) with RD-6780, ST-6870, satelite shifter, and also sprinter shifter. Yesterday, I get the XTR Di2 Display(SC-M9050) and plug in between Internal Juction and SM-EW67-A-E. Then, the shifters work fine, but “display” is not working. Nothing is displayed. Should I need to upgrade firmware? Anyone get idea? If I remove SM-EW67-AE-, a shifter works fine(I have just one extra electronic cable), but display is still not work.
Connect direct XTR Di2 Display(SC-M9050) with shifters.No use SM EW67
I have only one extra wire, so I directly connected a shift lever. Shifter was worked. But the display was not… Is there anyone who do this job with newer firmware?
Hi Carlton / kwkim,
Awesome website, wished I had known this before getting my groupset. Anyone succeeded in connecting XTR Di2 Display (SC-M9050) with Dura Ace / Ultegra?
Mine did not work too.
Shifters work fine, but the display does not work.
Have you updated the firmware?
Hey Carlton, Great page, really appreciate the time you have put in here, it helped me understand it all much better. Thanks.. However I am still struggling with Etube connecting with my bike.. I have a SM-EW90B connected to my PC with SM BCR2, I have downloaded the drivers for the SM BCR2 all good, however when I connect to Etube I get a message “The connected unit is not supported by the current bicycle type. Remove units other than the following and redo the connection check.” I have re installed Etube a couple of times, any ideas?
what “units” do you have connected, and what bike is selected?
Road Bike is selected. I have shifters ( ST 6870) – Tri Bar shifters (SW R671), Junction A (SM EW90 B), FD 6870, RD 6870, Internal battery (SM BTR2). I am not sure of Junction B as it is in the tube.
try unplugging everything except the battery, than see if it can update the battery be sure you are selecting the correct battery type,if it does update than plug everything back in and try to update the whole system.
Hey Carlton, Finally got a chance to test a few things. Turns out it was the version of e-tube that was the problem, I had installed V_2_8_1, downloaded V_2_9_0 and everything worked flawlessly. Thanks for your help.
A simple one: I have DA 9070 di2. I’d like to put on a 11-32 casette for a mountain-race. Is it plug-and-play to change the rear derailleur to a Ultega 6870 di2 GS?
It should be but without knowing the current version of existing components it may be nessary to updat the firmware so each component matches.
Hi – what a great post – really useful, thank you. A quick question, I have Ultegra Di2 6770 groupset (10-sp 11-28 34/50) and I want to move to 11-sp 11-32 34/50). Will the existing ST-6770 shifters work with the RD-6870-GS (11-s0 wide range) rear mech and would you recommend upgrading the front derailleur, too? Again thanks for a great document.
Yes, the shifters will be fine witheither setup. I recommend upgrading the front derailleur as well as the new rear will like come with the newer, incompatible firmware.
Dura ace shifters 9070 works with Ultegra 6870 derailleurs (front ans rear) ?
Yes, as the artile states.
I have tried to read all the article but i’am french and sometimes i do not understand all…
Thank you very much
Not a problem – glad to help!
I just purchased a sm-eww01 wireless unit . On the box it says firmware version 3 . I have ultegra 6770 di2 on my bike ( i do not know what firmware i have ) i plugged my wireless unit into my rd and tried to pair with my garmin 810 ( which has the new di2 update to work with the wireless unit ) but i cannot get it to pair , ive changed wires , unplugged the battery but nothing .
Do you think the wireless unit with version 3 firmware is not working with my older di2 6770 firmware , do i have to update my system ?
Richard, you need to update your firmware.
Thanks for the response . I also purchased the remote shifter which works fine when plugged in . Will it work once i update the firmware ?
Yes, everything should work with the new firmware, unless you have 10 speed and 11 speed front and rear derailleurs mixed together.
(great work you put here !)
i got the same issue with the wireless unit and i am afraid to update my 6770 system firmware so it won’t work with the new rd6870+11 speed cassette i just ordered ….
i am confused regarding your instruction about keeping the old version in order to combine a rd 6870 in a di2-6770 system.
can you be more specific about the “not to do” with the e-tube software ??
I would not recommend trying to do the firmware shuffle, the only chance you have of getting everything to work is to update everything to the current version and use both 6870 FD & RD.
I am wondering what it would take to allow R785 shifters to work with XTR RD and possibly FD instead of 6870 so I can get the clutch and more out-of-the-way parallelogram for off road use. I am thinking it’s just the software that restricts this.
Mike, it’s definitely just a software requirement for the two to be compatible. Unfortunately, I’m not sure if they are or not with the latest version of Etube firmware installed. Perhaps someone else has tested.
Fantastic article sir. Thank you so much for sharing it with the world.
I am trying to build the ultimate flat bar “road” bike. It will start as a Specialized Sirrus Expert Carbon Disc. I would love to try and make Di2 work on this bike if at all possible. I am still working on what I will need to make that a reality, but it looks like an Ultegra based 11 speed Di2 group will work as the bike is a 2×11 drive train as it sits out of the box.
My question is will Shimano’s Firebolt (MTB) shifters work with the latest Ultegra Di2 electronics? Is it plug and play or will I spend hours at the soldering bench ?
Thanks again for your time brother..
Dauv, I can’t say for certain that it will work. There is a good chance. Please let us know if you find anything out.
Can di2 be programmed to have presets for different rear cassettes eg when changing wheels?
No, not directly, you have to realign it each time. But you can figure out how to do it manually. So 4 clicks to the left when switching to wheel B, 4 clicks to the right when switching to wheel A.
Will the limit screws need altering or should it be just the ‘clicks’ to the left/right?
Carlton, what would you recommend for a 58cm Cervelo P5 w/ hydraulic Magura brakes? Hack an additional set of extension shifter pods or the hack the shift/brake levers, or just daisy chain some wires to a set of Cateye remotes?
Eric, that modification isn’t easy. The cleanest solution is to wait for Shimano to release hydraulic brake/shift levers, but not sure on timing for that. As for alternatives, the best option would be take apart the bar-end shifters and solder cateye remote buttons to the circuit board. It requires soldering to a circuit board, so not super easy, but it’s your best bet. Here are some general instructions: http://www.rundtramp.se/ultegra-di2-remote/
Thanks for all the info, it’s a really great website. I just wanted to check a couple of things.
I have just purchased a new RD 6870, and I will be running it with a FD6770. I have read what you have said and have download the link for E-Tube V 2.5.2 and will not run it with the internet on. But I wanted to know what updates I can download for my shifters, as I wanted to have the multi shift function, as it has never been updated since I first bought it 3 years ago. As I have only just purchased the SM-PCE1 as well. But I do not want to mess up by downloading something and it stops the other bits from being compatible.
Many thanks for all your help
You can not run 6770 with 6870, the versions of e tube you refur to will eventually cause nothing but grief when you try to update any other components. Just buy 6870 FD and save yourself lot of trouble.
Sorry if this has been asked before and I missed it.
I recently broke my Ultegra 6770 RD and replaced with a used version that, I suspect, had a hard life before I got it.
I’d like to dial it up to 11 so is it simply a case of replacing FD and RD with 6870 and I’m good to go (no need for new shifters or junction boxes)?
Yes, replace both FD and RD and that’s all you need to change.
I can look forward to being able to share wheels across all my bike again 🙂
It will of course require you to change cassettes for 10 or 11 speed shifting
It’s worse than that, my 10s wheels (Easton EA90RT) need a new 11s freehub. The existing hub won’t do 11s which is remarkable given how long 11s has been known about.
Still, at least once all that is done I’ll be up to date, until the next change!
Jeez Carleton – I am almost afraid to ask the question because your article is so comprehensive, but:
I own an ultegra di2 6770 10 speed road kit. I bought the matching 10 speed ultegra di2 aerobar tt shifters for clip ons. Now I want to use the group set on a dedicated tt bike.
So, will the ST-6871 Ultegra Time Trial/Triathlon Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters work with my existing di2 kit?
yes, but you may heed to update the firmware.
Has anyone ever had a blinking error indicator on their charger? How can this be resolved? I’ve tried plugging USB in to computer and also using various USB to AC chargers and I still get a blinking error light. I was able to successfully update FD firmware so the cable does work for that, it just won’t charge the battery.
What battery are you trying to charge? It only charges the SM BTR2
Ah, that must be it, thanks. I have the external battery but it is internally mounted in the pocket of a Cervelo P5. So do I need to pull the battery out to charge it?
Yes you will need an external charger, if you don’t have one I do have one I can sell you, a custom design that will charge your battery without removing it from the bike. Contact me off board at Di2diy.gmail.com
I have a friend that insists that he has an external battery and charges it through the junction box using the SM-BCR2. Are you sure that you can only charge the seat post battery only? I was able to try a brand new SM-BCR2 on my 5 port junction and that one too received the blinking error indicator. I switched out the 5 port junction with a brand new one and that one won’t charge either. Who knows what the blinking error indicator means? The manual only states this blinks where there is a temperature problem but this could not be the issue. Any idea?
Yes I’m sure… but perhaps your friend have some magical beans.
Hi Carlton (and potentially di2diy)
Great site, very useful.
I currently have a bike with dura-ace 9070 groupset, including sprint shifters. I would like to have a little DIY project at minimum cost to add two additional features.
Firstly, I would like to add custom climbing buttons to the handle bar. Given I don’t want to pay for any shimano hardware I think this will need to be a custom momentary switch (ie cat eye buttons) spliced into the existing spint shift cable, one for the left side and separate one for the right side.
Secondly, I’d like to add custom shifters to the ends of my clip on aerobars. I envision this being a second splice again into both the left and right sprint shift cables. I plan to add a small custom male/female plug (from eBay) just sticking out of the bar tape for when the aerobars are removed.
What is not yet clear to me is how the circuitry of the sprint shifter works. (I haven’t cut open the cable yet). I’m uncertain if I can just splice in two additional switches to the line or if I’ll need something more complicated.
Thanks again. Any thoughts or advice much appreciated.
Splicing into the sprint shifter/ports is easy and I have already covered this in earlier post, you can add as many buttons as you want, and yes you could add a JST connector to the splice to make the removal of TT custom buttons, but it would look cluttered and be hard to manage, however I would go with the a 5 port junction and the SW 9071 with the clip ons, than removing them from the system would be a snap, and look much cleaner when the TT clip ons are not on.
Correct me if I am wrong guys.
You can add the simple N.O. cateye buttons into the splice, but only when plugged into the lower port on each shift lever which are programmed that way for backward compatibility. That is the only place the 2nd generation doesn’t require eprom control switches. So one side for down the other side for up of the rear der. ONLY!!! The sprint shifters are eprom controlled so I would think you could splice another one (sprint) into each one and use the e-tube software & smpce1 or SM-BCR2 to program for additional front der. ETC. (Getting really expensive.) Or just plug 2nd set into 5 port junction box.
Yes, and could be changed by Shim with a firmware update that wipes out the simple switch backward compatibly.
Oops please never mind on my last post, Di2Diy covered it on page 5.
you can splice as many buttons as you want to the sprint shifter port, but it will only shift the RD. if you are thinking you can somehow add remote shifting for the FD by going through the sprinter port forget it. if you want to add FD remote shifting using the cateye buttons you will need to hack a SW 9071 FD pod. this has been asked and answered in your previous question.
Easy to get confused when you have bad information such as:
“But if you want the sprint shifters to control the front derailleur instead, simply make the switch with the software.”
“The tiny sprint shifter can be set to control either derailleur”
Since beating this to death 🙂 here is some maybe (unless i missed something else) new “information”:
It appears at least unless Shimano has neutered it with a firmware upgrade; you actually can set up the climbing shifters SW-R600 to do the front D. Of course he could have hacked a set of SW-R671s which would have been cheaper. But, if you have your 11 sp levers and only need one, or when the price really comes down on the R600….
To be clear, notice below the implication is to set up control front with a set on the left – fd and a set on the right for rd.
Also Jim the tech that did the mod responds here to that very question:
Anyone else tried it ?
I have two climbing shifters connected, one to each 9070 sti. One controls FD, one controls rd. The software shows the two shifters on the connection diagram when you run it. All are configurable to any function.
Carlton I have just bought a 10 speed ultegra rear derailleur 6770 to set up my TT bike. I have the bar end shifters. Will they and the other 6770 parts work with the 5 port junction box that I think I need.
Yes, it is all interchangeable. Just have to have front and rear derailleurs match.
Cheers. I read somewhere that the firmware had changed on the 5 port junction box. Thanks for the quick reply.
I have just upgraded my Ultegra 6770 to an internal battery.
I have used the etube 2.5 s/w from the above link to upgrade all the f/w and everything is working.
My battery came with 2.3.2 f/w, my shifters now have 2.2.0 and my gears 2.0.2
Will I be able to upgrade later to DA if required and mix compenents due to using the etube 2.5 or does the battery f/w dictate it?
As long as the FD&RD are 11 speed, and you use a EW90 junction box everything will work.
Didn’t quite phrase my question correctly but your answer hints at it. Can I still mix and match FD & RD with 6670 and Di2? Is this driven by the battery F/W I already have or by the etube 2.5 software use
It’s driven by the battery firmware you already have. Unless it’s old and you never want to update, you can’t mix 11 speed with 10 speed.
You can mix and match everything but the FD and RD the have to match, you will also have to update the firmware if you add 11 speed to the 10 speed system. Since your original question was about adding the BTR2 you also must upgrade to the EW90 junction box.
I have just upgraded to 11 speed Ultegra FD& RD and updated the current f/w, but used the EW67A junction and not the EW90. Everything is working fine at the moment but from your recent post this appears to be theoretically incorrect. Am I to expect problems in the future?
Yes the most current version will cause the system to not work with the EW67. I discovered this last week, prevesouly it would issue a warning but still work, now it will not allow BTR2+EW67 to function. The strange thing is that running the diagnosis with the PCE1 does not show a fault, with the EW67, but it will not work.
Thanks, post updated with note on the EW67 issue.
Ya, discovered this during the testing of the sprint shifter FD/RD settings and SW600 reassignment, which BTW all checked out, but I was unable to finish testing on 6770 due to the issue with the EW67 change. The good thing about e tube project is the keep updating it… The bad thing is they keep updating it.
Thks for your reply Di2diy. My system is working absolutely fine with the EW67 at the moment and think I may have the reason why…… I have the older version BMR1 and BTR1 fitted. Does this fit with you?
Yes Jeff, it only applies to BTR2, Internal seat post battery. However I do make an internal seat post battery that will work without the need to change the junction box if you ever want to go internal with the battery.
Carlton, I have to upgrade my 7800 system due to wear and breakage but have a lot of 10 speed wheels, including a powertap which doesn’t appear to be upgradeable.
My thought was that I may try ride the wheels until I found a financially agreeable solution. Reading your site suggested (to me) that I could use the di2 Ultegra 687011 speed shifters with an 11 speed der, (with adjusted limits) with a 10 speed wheel and a 11 speed cassette with a cog and spacer removed, making it a 10 speed. Comments?
Mal, yes, that setup would work. My concern would be shifting to the 11th (non-existent) cog, causing the servo to try to shift into a gear that is out of limits. If you think you can avoid shifting beyond the 10th cog, then I don’t see any issues. But if you do frequently, it would likely result in premature rear derailleur failure.
Mr Bale is correct, you will likely see the RD fail in less than a year, and the shifting will not be all that great in all gears. Why not just go with 6770, there are still systems being sold online and on eBay, and some good deals to be had.
Hi. Where have you seen parts for sale. I struggled to source a rear derailleur 6770.
FD&RDebay BIN $310 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Di2-Ultegra-Front-and-Rear-Derailleur-10-Speed-FD-6770-RD-6770/301542090284?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20141212152715%26meid%3D55210345d5564b0b9a38d74f8595a89c%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D121573165476. and on Backcountry.com $111 for the levers, backcountry also has the wires and battery, junction box
Mainly due to its generation age.
Thanks for that. I really don’t understand how the rd can’t be programmed for 10. Or even the 10 programmed for 11. But then I’m just a peon. I suspect someone will do it. Meanwhile I’ll save up for an 11 speed wheel.
Carlton, would you happen to know on Alfine di2 hub , can it controled by the DA 7970 shifters?
Don, Nothing from the first generation Dura-Ace Di2 7970 system is compatible with any other system.
7970 Di2 is not comparable with any e tube components.
Don, the shifters should be compatible with the Alfine hub if everything has the latest firmware, but it hasn’t been specifically verified. If you do verify, please let me know.
Does anyone have any advice about cable routing and battery position on a cervelo p3 2007. I’d like to leave the cable holes in tact in case I returned it to manual shift if I sold the frame. Was thinking of drilling the top tube as per the s2.
I drilled a hole in the top tube about an inch behind the top tube on my 2008 P2 and used an angled grommet. I was also wanting backwards compatibility.
Also, I originally installed the battery in the seat post, but found that to be inconvenient when removing the seat post for travel and breaking the electrical connection. So I moved it to the seat post tube in the frame and attached a “retrieval string” to the battery so I could easily pull it out if necessary. It’s partially wrapped in pipe insulation foam and held in place by friction, so no rattle.
Thanks again. Which battery did you use and can it be charged through the 5 port connector?
I used the standard Shimano internal battery and it is charged through the 5-port A junction.
Sorry is that the SM-BTR2 internal battery?
Yes, it’s the SM-BTR2 internal battery.