1. Please could You let Me know what wire lengths did You use on a P2.I intend on using an External battery set up.Thanks

  2. I have Shimano Di2 Systems on two road bikes. dura ace 9070RD/FD Levers R785-r-l battery BTDN110 and controller SM-E90-A and the other Ultegra 6870 RD/FD levers 6770R-L Battery BT DN110 and controller SM EW90-A. I have the latest e-Tube software. I setup autoshift using e-Tube on a PC and semi auto as well but I can not figure out how to activate autoshifting or whether I am still missing something? I press the SM-E90A twice to activate? but that doesn’t seem to work. I have the latest firmware on both systems — can you let me know what I am doing wrong? 52/36 chain ring, standard setup for the shift pattern loaded in the software.

  3. Great site! I have a Cervelo S5 with standard Horn bars, 6780 shifter, aero bars and bar end shifters. I am using a SM-EW90 5 port junction box. I use the bike for long time trials, 12/24 hr. and want to change to regular aero bars. I have a pair of ST-6871 11s shifters I will use on the base bar and will use the same aero bars and bar end shifters. I want to know if the TT shifters will be compatible with the junction box I have or I need another one. Shifters cam with cables and the end plugs look like the same.

    I am also building a Dogma F10 as a “climbing bike”. My intention is to use the 6870 brake/shifters on that bike (along with the horn bars off of the S5. I want a new Di2 system for the F10 that will be compatible with the “old” shifters. Will probably also install aero bars and bar end shifters Both new) as well (similar to what I have currently on the S5.) DO I go with a 2nd gen. system or the newer e-Tube system.

    Thanks in advance for your help.


    1. Author

      All of the e-tube shifters are compatible. It’s really a matter of personal preference and cost.

  4. I have an Ultegra 6870 Di2 set up all working fine and I’ve been trying to pair my Garmin Edge 1000 with the system. I have an SM-EWW01 connected at the RD but have so far failed to get the Garmin & Di2 to talk to each other. All my tech stuff is Apple. I tried going through the E-Tube application on my iPad which also failed. All I can think of is either; the EWW01 is not working as it should or maybe I have the wrong battery? (Not sure what the latter is but my charger is a BCR2 so am assuming the battery is a BTR2)

    1. The BTR2 will not work, you need a DT‑DN110 contains a new memory chip that is both Bluetooth and ANT+ capable.

    2. I think your problem is that your components need firmware upgrade and the system needs to “recognise” the ant+ unit. I take it you have the SM-EW67-A-E Ultegra 3-Cable Junction with the external battery?. You will either need to “borrow” a PCE unit to update your system or if one of your mates has a Di2 system with an internal battery you can change out the SM-EW67-A-E Unit with their SM-EW90-A junction and update your system via their battery charger and a laptop with the ETube software

      1. Thanks – actually the battery is internally mounted and the junction box A is a 3 port SM EW90. The other reply seems to suggest I need a different battery?

        1. Ok sorry I assumed wrong. The part number of what you said above is for the old style Ant+ only model ( I also have two of them on my Di2 bikes and they work fine, one has internal battery and the other external). I assume that you have already doine this but I will say it anyway….With what you have just said do you have the internal battery charger with the usb that you connect to a PC/laptop? if so have you downloaded the etube software? if so then plug your cable into the A port and let the software recognise your system and do its connection check. On the screen the items will show up on the graphic. then go back to the main screen and you will see a button for firmware update, press that and the system will update the firmware to the latest.

          The part number you mention ( SM-EWW01 ) will NOT communicate with your Ipad as it is not bluetooth

          Once done get your garmin to look for the ant+ unit for which you may need to set bike up on a stand and change gears a bit till it “kicks” system into action. All being well it should then show the gear page and you will be a happy bunny.
          As I hinted before, I have the Ultegra 6870 set up on my bike and that is the one with external battery

          1. Thanks again – becoming clearer – yes I have a charger (SM BCR2) and the USB port/cable but my laptop is an Apple (without Windows) so I’ve not managed to download the E-tube software and make that apparently critical step (hence my attempts through the E-Tube App on my iPad). I guess I’m going to have to find a friendly lbs with a PC who can do the firmware upgrades for me. Still not sure whether I need a different battery?

          2. Try your garmin and see if it picks up the Ant+ part without plugging it in to a PC or take it to LBS, remember you may need to change gears for it to register on your garmin. As far as battery goes , its only the high spec battery that allows the Bluetooth connection thingy to work to allow full access to the etube software on the ipad. The part number you gave is the Ant+ only

          3. Hi Malcolm – finally sorted. Not sure what happened – partial download or corrupted pairing? In the end I tried a basic fix and simply unplugged the d-fly unit from the battery, deleted the sensor from the Garmin, connected everything back together, tried a new pairing and hey bingo, it all now works. Next thing will be a battery & d-fly unit upgrade with Bluetooth so I can mess about on my iPad and shuffle stuff around. Thanks for your help

        2. Great stuff, hope you enjoy. I also am waiting on the battery upgrade (looking on ebay and the likes for a good deal…) I quite fancy the smart gear changing but the basic ant+ data good for now. Glad to help

  5. Carlton thanks for this extremely informative site. So far it has answered all of my questions. So much so, I am about to order the new 2018 Ultegra Di2 upgrade kit. I’ll need to use a 5 port junction port so I can later add the E-Tube bar-end plug. My only worry is getting the cable from the RD thro the chainstay and past the BB. I currently have an internal RD mech cable but it is very thin. I might have a dummy run with some electrical cable to see if it goes thro.

  6. Could I pick your brains please?
    I finally connected the Ew-wu101 today. I have the correct BT internal battery. There were 5 updates needed through the app on my iPhone. I did the 1st 4, but the app crashed @ 48% on the 5th update – the internal battery. Now the whole system is dead. The battery won’t charge. I have the SM-PCE1 box. It won’t recognise the system as it is. If I disconnect the internal battery it recognises everything else (but says the system needs a battery to operate). If I connect the battery directly it is not recognised. Any ideas? It looks like I have to get the battery updated to move forward, but I can’t get anything to recognise it.

  7. Hi I wonder if you could advise on my problem…

    I have the required hardware for synchro shift and all firmware is up to date. I’ve been using it (and loving it) for several months now. I recently had to disconnect the battery as I removed the seat post. Whilst I was at it I disconnected and reconnected a couple wires for a better cable run. Now its all back together and I can’t get synchro shift to work.

    The button on junction box A still works (to set into bluetooth mode or adjust mech trim), but double clicking does not change between shifting modes. Its basically stuck in mode 1 (traditional shifting) which is working fine on both derailleurs, but I can’t get it to change into modes 2 or 3.

    I’d be very grateful if you could come up with a suggestion as to what I have done and how it can be fixed.


    Patrick, UK

  8. About ready to make the jump to electronic shifting, have an F10 frame here which has the removable cap, which -as I understand it- is replaced by a combination charge connector and junction box all-in-one, referred to as an ‘E-link’ port(?).
    The bike has been a build project for my son to learn about how things go together, get adjusted, why torque wrenches are important and how to use/store one, etc.
    I’m trying to plan out everything I’ll need, but I’m a little confused about which battery, how it mounts in the downtube, and whether I still need an A-junction, etc.
    Hunted online for an everything you need to know’ to answer my question, and this seems to be a great resource.
    The shifters, FD and RD seem straightforward, and I’ll need cables to connect to those, but it all seems a little vague and mysterious inside the frame.
    Thanks in advance for any illumination!

  9. Can I use just the climbing/pave shifter SW-R600 for rear-only shifting with non-electronic levers (Campag)? For a new custom gravel build, I’ve learnt from this site (thanks, Carlton) I’ll need to purchase bar-end junction, Junction B, internal battery (& charger), rear der, assoc cables. Anything else I need?

      1. Thanks Carlton. I was told that you needed both sides to work. As a matter of curiosity are the brains in the derailleurs ie the levers/shifters send the signals to the derailleurs and the junctions are just connection facilities?

        1. Author

          Dan, the system is somewhat decentralized, but the battery is what does the coordination of connected components.

  10. Carlton, probably can file under ” another stupid question”…I bought the SW-R9150 shifter set. Each sifter comes in a separate bag, one pink, one clear with corresponding different part numbers. Is there any difference, like a left and right, or does it matter. Can’t believe the instruction sheet is so sparse!

    1. I think I found the answer…on each shifter there is a small “R” and “L”, so I’m presuming that would be left & right, also the pink bag has the “R” shifter in it. I’m going with that.

      1. Author

        Shimano instructions are notoriously terrible. The L/R labels are what you need. I definitely recommend testing everything electrically before running cables.

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