1. Please could You let Me know what wire lengths did You use on a P2.I intend on using an External battery set up.Thanks

  2. I have Shimano Di2 Systems on two road bikes. dura ace 9070RD/FD Levers R785-r-l battery BTDN110 and controller SM-E90-A and the other Ultegra 6870 RD/FD levers 6770R-L Battery BT DN110 and controller SM EW90-A. I have the latest e-Tube software. I setup autoshift using e-Tube on a PC and semi auto as well but I can not figure out how to activate autoshifting or whether I am still missing something? I press the SM-E90A twice to activate? but that doesn’t seem to work. I have the latest firmware on both systems — can you let me know what I am doing wrong? 52/36 chain ring, standard setup for the shift pattern loaded in the software.

    1. I can only sympathise as I have the same infuriated situation on my R8050 di2

    2. I’ve got it. Changing shift mode needs 2 very very quick blips on the switch. I’ve been doing it slowly. Also, simply holding any of the lever switches for about 1 sec gives battery status and shift mode.

  3. Great site! I have a Cervelo S5 with standard Horn bars, 6780 shifter, aero bars and bar end shifters. I am using a SM-EW90 5 port junction box. I use the bike for long time trials, 12/24 hr. and want to change to regular aero bars. I have a pair of ST-6871 11s shifters I will use on the base bar and will use the same aero bars and bar end shifters. I want to know if the TT shifters will be compatible with the junction box I have or I need another one. Shifters cam with cables and the end plugs look like the same.

    I am also building a Dogma F10 as a “climbing bike”. My intention is to use the 6870 brake/shifters on that bike (along with the horn bars off of the S5. I want a new Di2 system for the F10 that will be compatible with the “old” shifters. Will probably also install aero bars and bar end shifters Both new) as well (similar to what I have currently on the S5.) DO I go with a 2nd gen. system or the newer e-Tube system.

    Thanks in advance for your help.


    1. Author

      All of the e-tube shifters are compatible. It’s really a matter of personal preference and cost.

  4. I have an Ultegra 6870 Di2 set up all working fine and I’ve been trying to pair my Garmin Edge 1000 with the system. I have an SM-EWW01 connected at the RD but have so far failed to get the Garmin & Di2 to talk to each other. All my tech stuff is Apple. I tried going through the E-Tube application on my iPad which also failed. All I can think of is either; the EWW01 is not working as it should or maybe I have the wrong battery? (Not sure what the latter is but my charger is a BCR2 so am assuming the battery is a BTR2)

    1. The BTR2 will not work, you need a DT‑DN110 contains a new memory chip that is both Bluetooth and ANT+ capable.

    2. I think your problem is that your components need firmware upgrade and the system needs to “recognise” the ant+ unit. I take it you have the SM-EW67-A-E Ultegra 3-Cable Junction with the external battery?. You will either need to “borrow” a PCE unit to update your system or if one of your mates has a Di2 system with an internal battery you can change out the SM-EW67-A-E Unit with their SM-EW90-A junction and update your system via their battery charger and a laptop with the ETube software

      1. Thanks – actually the battery is internally mounted and the junction box A is a 3 port SM EW90. The other reply seems to suggest I need a different battery?

        1. Ok sorry I assumed wrong. The part number of what you said above is for the old style Ant+ only model ( I also have two of them on my Di2 bikes and they work fine, one has internal battery and the other external). I assume that you have already doine this but I will say it anyway….With what you have just said do you have the internal battery charger with the usb that you connect to a PC/laptop? if so have you downloaded the etube software? if so then plug your cable into the A port and let the software recognise your system and do its connection check. On the screen the items will show up on the graphic. then go back to the main screen and you will see a button for firmware update, press that and the system will update the firmware to the latest.

          The part number you mention ( SM-EWW01 ) will NOT communicate with your Ipad as it is not bluetooth

          Once done get your garmin to look for the ant+ unit for which you may need to set bike up on a stand and change gears a bit till it “kicks” system into action. All being well it should then show the gear page and you will be a happy bunny.
          As I hinted before, I have the Ultegra 6870 set up on my bike and that is the one with external battery

          1. Thanks again – becoming clearer – yes I have a charger (SM BCR2) and the USB port/cable but my laptop is an Apple (without Windows) so I’ve not managed to download the E-tube software and make that apparently critical step (hence my attempts through the E-Tube App on my iPad). I guess I’m going to have to find a friendly lbs with a PC who can do the firmware upgrades for me. Still not sure whether I need a different battery?

          2. Try your garmin and see if it picks up the Ant+ part without plugging it in to a PC or take it to LBS, remember you may need to change gears for it to register on your garmin. As far as battery goes , its only the high spec battery that allows the Bluetooth connection thingy to work to allow full access to the etube software on the ipad. The part number you gave is the Ant+ only

          3. Hi Malcolm – finally sorted. Not sure what happened – partial download or corrupted pairing? In the end I tried a basic fix and simply unplugged the d-fly unit from the battery, deleted the sensor from the Garmin, connected everything back together, tried a new pairing and hey bingo, it all now works. Next thing will be a battery & d-fly unit upgrade with Bluetooth so I can mess about on my iPad and shuffle stuff around. Thanks for your help

        2. Great stuff, hope you enjoy. I also am waiting on the battery upgrade (looking on ebay and the likes for a good deal…) I quite fancy the smart gear changing but the basic ant+ data good for now. Glad to help

  5. Carlton thanks for this extremely informative site. So far it has answered all of my questions. So much so, I am about to order the new 2018 Ultegra Di2 upgrade kit. I’ll need to use a 5 port junction port so I can later add the E-Tube bar-end plug. My only worry is getting the cable from the RD thro the chainstay and past the BB. I currently have an internal RD mech cable but it is very thin. I might have a dummy run with some electrical cable to see if it goes thro.

  6. Could I pick your brains please?
    I finally connected the Ew-wu101 today. I have the correct BT internal battery. There were 5 updates needed through the app on my iPhone. I did the 1st 4, but the app crashed @ 48% on the 5th update – the internal battery. Now the whole system is dead. The battery won’t charge. I have the SM-PCE1 box. It won’t recognise the system as it is. If I disconnect the internal battery it recognises everything else (but says the system needs a battery to operate). If I connect the battery directly it is not recognised. Any ideas? It looks like I have to get the battery updated to move forward, but I can’t get anything to recognise it.

    1. Managed to get this fixed. I had to connect the battery directly to the SM-PCE1, then overwrite the firmware by selecting the cable symbol on the right hand side of the e-tube login screen. All updated & all back working again now (Apparently if after 3 attempts the Battery is not recognised, you can tell the SM-PCE1 what it is and that should fix it, although mine worked 1st time).
      Hope this saves someone a lot of mucking around down the line (as long as you have access to the SM-PCE1).

  7. Hi I wonder if you could advise on my problem…

    I have the required hardware for synchro shift and all firmware is up to date. I’ve been using it (and loving it) for several months now. I recently had to disconnect the battery as I removed the seat post. Whilst I was at it I disconnected and reconnected a couple wires for a better cable run. Now its all back together and I can’t get synchro shift to work.

    The button on junction box A still works (to set into bluetooth mode or adjust mech trim), but double clicking does not change between shifting modes. Its basically stuck in mode 1 (traditional shifting) which is working fine on both derailleurs, but I can’t get it to change into modes 2 or 3.

    I’d be very grateful if you could come up with a suggestion as to what I have done and how it can be fixed.


    Patrick, UK

    1. The double click needs to be fast.

  8. About ready to make the jump to electronic shifting, have an F10 frame here which has the removable cap, which -as I understand it- is replaced by a combination charge connector and junction box all-in-one, referred to as an ‘E-link’ port(?).
    The bike has been a build project for my son to learn about how things go together, get adjusted, why torque wrenches are important and how to use/store one, etc.
    I’m trying to plan out everything I’ll need, but I’m a little confused about which battery, how it mounts in the downtube, and whether I still need an A-junction, etc.
    Hunted online for an everything you need to know’ to answer my question, and this seems to be a great resource.
    The shifters, FD and RD seem straightforward, and I’ll need cables to connect to those, but it all seems a little vague and mysterious inside the frame.
    Thanks in advance for any illumination!

    1. Author

      Sorry for the delay. The “E-link port” you describe is the Junction A, so that will work fine. I like how well those integrate!

  9. Can I use just the climbing/pave shifter SW-R600 for rear-only shifting with non-electronic levers (Campag)? For a new custom gravel build, I’ve learnt from this site (thanks, Carlton) I’ll need to purchase bar-end junction, Junction B, internal battery (& charger), rear der, assoc cables. Anything else I need?

      1. Thanks Carlton. I was told that you needed both sides to work. As a matter of curiosity are the brains in the derailleurs ie the levers/shifters send the signals to the derailleurs and the junctions are just connection facilities?

        1. Author

          Dan, the system is somewhat decentralized, but the battery is what does the coordination of connected components.

  10. Carlton, probably can file under ” another stupid question”…I bought the SW-R9150 shifter set. Each sifter comes in a separate bag, one pink, one clear with corresponding different part numbers. Is there any difference, like a left and right, or does it matter. Can’t believe the instruction sheet is so sparse!

    1. I think I found the answer…on each shifter there is a small “R” and “L”, so I’m presuming that would be left & right, also the pink bag has the “R” shifter in it. I’m going with that.

      1. Author

        Shimano instructions are notoriously terrible. The L/R labels are what you need. I definitely recommend testing everything electrically before running cables.

  11. Carlton, now that I can figure out my left and right satellite buttons, I’m looking for input as to locating them. 😉
    Basically you have a choice of using your index finger or thumb actuation, but if you try to locate for both finger/thumb then neither works very well. Have you used or installed the R9150 shifters? I know a lot of this is personal preference, but if do you have any insight I’d love to here it!

    1. Author

      John, I hope you got this figured out. I prefer thumb shifting, but I haven’t tried that with the satellite shift buttons you have. I’d try thumb shifting first.

  12. Hey Carlton – thanks for a great page! I’ve just bought a bike equipped with 6770 Di2. I haven’t taken delivery yet but I’m already wondering about tinkering with the system. The chart you and Shimano provide says that the SM-BTR2 battery and the SC-M9050 junction box, which both support synchro shift, are compatible with the rest of the 6770 kit, so is it unreasonable to hope that the 6770 could be persuaded to play along? Is the incompatibility you mention built into the firmware, so that the battery recognises the 6770 RD, for example? Would swapping the RD for a more recent compatible one do the trick?

    1. Author

      Robin, you would need to upgrade the front and rear derailleurs (and switch your rear wheel to 11-speed) if you want to take advantage of the new shifting options with the new battery.

  13. Hi Carlton, have a Dura Ace 7970 di2 10 speed Giant. The rd-7970 has died and they are now obsolete! Is my only and cheapest alternative to buy an Ultegra 6870 Di2 11 speed gear set? Thanks for your informative site

    1. Author

      Geoff, the cheapest option is to buy a used rd-7970 on eBay or similar. They are show up once or twice a month. 6870 Di2 has a much better future ahead for support, but you will need to upgrade everything on your bike, including the rear sprockets and maybe even your wheel. I recommend the eBay option and being patient to find the right part.

  14. Hi, I´m from Spain, sorry for my level of English. I am a triathlete and I have the new Dura Ace 9150 Di2 in my new Scott Plasma Premium aero TT bike. I´m trying to resolve a big problem for me, when I pedaling in aero position over on the extensions I only can change the gears up with one shifter up and the other down (SW-R9160 Time Trial bar-end shifters (pair) also with ST-9071 Dura-Ace Time Trial/Triathlon Dual Control Brake Levers/Shifters).

    Synchronized Shifting is a big product, but for us (triathletes) I think that it does not work very well. I need to drop (leave, release) the handlebar of the bike to change gear if I pedaling over the brakes or over the extensions because the all the shifters are configurated with only one button and command.

    My doubt, is it possible to configurate the shifters to avoid to drop (leave, release) the handlebar or the extensions? i.e., if I control the bike over the brakes and I want to up one gear I need to drop the handlebar to push the upshift. I know that the symchronized Shifting control this situations but for triathlon we need more availability options.

    i hope that you understand me and help me.

    Thank yo very much. Best regards.

    1. Author

      You have 2 options: Use SyncroShift with your existing shifters or replace your 1-button bar-end shifters with 2-button bar-end shifters.

      I personally use the 2 button shifters. I don’t see any value in having fewer buttons. It’s pretty easy to remember which button does what.

      1. Thank you so much for your answer. I do not yet understand the reduction of buttons from Shimano. Finally I opted to use the Full Synchro option and left side (handle bar and bar-end buttons) up gear (sprockets) and the right side down, the rest to work efficient is done for the Full Synchro option (up/down chainwheels). The problem here is if you need to up/down quickly the chainwheels you only have the buttons to do it, you can not up/down these one.

        Best regards.

  15. I saw a neat setup on GCN a few months back where someone with an aero road bike with etap bought an aero tt handlebar and switched between road and tt handlebars only needing to re-pair the shifters (and also change brake cables).

    I’d like to duplicate this setup with ultegra di2 to save cost, but this would mean changing cables. Seems like this is doable as long as I have the handy cable tool, but I still worry regularly changing cables will wear them down, or wear down the junction box. Would that be an issue?

    1. Author

      If you’re just changing a few times a year, I don’t think connector wear at the Junction A would be an issue.

  16. Hi I’m looking at a new bike and tossing up between Dura ace di2 and Ultegra I have had bike shops say Dura ace shifts better but what I can gather the main difference is weight and price just wondering your thoughts. Thanks

    1. Author

      I agree with you; the only significant difference are weight and price. Unless you are an ultra competitor or have unlimited money to spend, it’s very difficult for me to recommend Dura-ace. Ultegra offers identical performance at a significantly lower price.

      1. But Dura Ace does have the buttons under the hoods that allow one to scroll thru screens on their bike computer without taking the hands of the bars. Thats a safety feature for me. Does the latest Ultegra have this?

        1. Author

          To my knowledge, that is Dura-ace only. But could use Drua-ace brake/shifters with Ultegra everything else and still spend much less.

          1. True that! For safety the scroll feature should be added to Ultegra. Adding the DA shifter cost to an Ultegra group is still onerous. Etronics aside, ultegra cassettes are more durable and of course cheaper.

          2. I believe the shifters in the latest version of electronic Ultegra – R8050 – do have the same remote switches on top of the hoods as Dura-Ace. However for the next part I’m not really sure, but knowing Shimano, you may need the updated transmitter, WU101 or WU111, and maybe even the most recent battery BT DN110 to fully utilise the remote switches?

  17. Can you directly connect a 2-cell Li-ion battery to the Di2 wires? (the newer SD50 type)
    Are the Di2 wires running a 7.4 v voltage or do the battery holder regulate it down?

    Is there a place with pictures? (to ensure i get polarity right)

  18. Hello, Carlton. You know how to solve a lot of problems with di2. I think that you can help me to fix problem with di2 rd-9070. Rear derailleur does not shift to 10th and 11th gear. Firmware updated successfully. I tried to fix problem using crash mode. In this mode RD doesn’t shifts to this to gears too… when I connect my di2 to PC RD sets to 9th gear but on PC indicates 11th gear. Carlton could you help to solve this problem? RD wasn’t damaged never. One day it’s stop working correctly.

      1. Hello, Carlton. Today I learned shimano manual. Setup procedure did not help. I tried to setup using pc and Etube programm. Programm shows me that I should make a request to Shimano. May be it is mechanical problems?

        1. Author

          Yes, most likely a failure internal to the derailleur. The dealer setup process would have fixed it otherwise.

  19. Good Day Carlton, i run 3 bikes with the 9070 groupset. i am a mobile bike mechanic. i have all the latest software and components. when i activate “Synchro-Shift” on either bikes, i get a tremendous battery drain overnight. it was down to 15% yesterday after a full charge the previous day, if i disable the s/shift, there is no battery drain. can u please give me a soiution? my limit screws are all adjusted perfectly. thanks

    1. Author

      There is a known battery drain issue with older versions of firmware. Have you updated to the latest version of firmware?

      1. yes, i have the SM-PCE1 and the BCR-2. battery is the BT-DN110 and i have the EW-WU101.

  20. Hello Carlton. I have a pair of Shimano 7970 shifters,can I use them with Ultegra 6770 front and rear deraillaur? There are a 5-pin Cable after the box from the shifters….And if not,what kind of Cable harness do I need?
    Regards Sven Sweden

    1. 7xxx equipment is not compatible wit any of the other di2 generations. completely different cabling

  21. I have Ultegra 6870 on my CX bike. I want to replace my Ultegra RD-6870 rear derailleur with an XT RD-M8050 derailleur, but I don’t want to replace my Ultegra FD-6870 front derailleur. Will this work?

    I want to do this because I want to run an 11-40 cassette and a 34-50 chainrings together. I’m currently using a Wolf Tooth RoadLink to do this. Although this works, I’d prefer to run the XT RD-M8050 derailleur because it has a clutch.

  22. My bike is three years old with about 19,000kms on it. Since Chistmas, twice when I was out on a ride and the battery indicator was flashing green at the start, after about 45 km, the front derailuer went to the small ring & no more shifting. Indicator was now red solid. The second time this happen, yesterday, it was flashing green for the last month, and three rides, 200km. …My question is, am I looking at a new battery or do I have a abnormally high energy consumption with my derailleurs?

    1. Sold green =100-50%, flashing green =50-25% flashing red =25%-dead. All lithium ion power sources drop off sharply after 50%, and more so as they age. Change the battery after you notice is flashing since you don’t know how log it’s been >50%.

  23. I have recently converted my shiv tri bike from 6800 (mechanical) ultegra to 6870 (Di2) Ultegra. I have set up both Derailleurs as per the shimano manuals and everything works well. However when setting the “top position electrical adjustment” on the front derailleur I cannot get the specified 0 to 0.5 mm clearance between the chain and the inner guide plate of the front derailleur. The clearance is around 1 mm with the front derailleur fully adjusted over (to the outside) in “adjustment mode”.
    That is, the front derailleur is at the end of its limit in adjustment mode. The gear changes work perfectly across the whole range so I am being a bit picky in not being able to get the above adjustment “as per the book”.
    Unless there is a way of getting more range of electrical adjustment then the only way that I can see to get the specified clearance is to physically move the front derailleur mount away from the frame slightly (the derailleur is a braze-on type). This would mean inserting say a 1 mm shim between the frame and the derailleur mounting bracket. As the mounting plate is riveted to the carbon frame I don’t propose to go to that extent of trouble.
    Is there an easier way to get this adjustment??

      1. Yes that’s the conclusion I had really come to. Thanks

Leave a Reply to Erik Cancel reply