2,225 Comments

  1. Hey team… I’m hoping someone on here may be able to point me in the right direction with an issue I’m having with my EW-WU111 BT module.

    I recently changed out my phone and now my E-Tube app is asking for my 6 digit pass key (pin code). For the life of me, I can’t remember what I set it to. I’ve tried the default 000000 and every other code I would usually think of using to no avail.

    Is it possible to reset the code back to default (i.e. factory reset)? Or any other tips?

    Thanks heaps in advance!

    1. Author

      You’ll need to use the PC-based e-tube software and the USB wired connection.

      1. Thanks Carlton… I had a sneaking suspicion that may be the case.

    2. Author

      You’ll need to connect using the Windows version of E-tube and the USB wired connection.

  2. Hi, I am using an RD6870 rear derailler and a 12-25 cassette. When the chain is on the large front chainring(50) shifting up from 21 to 23 all works well. When I want to shift back from 23 to 21 i have to press the shifter 2 times and after that the chain goes from 23 to 19. When i have the chain on the small front chainring all seems to work well. What could’t be the problem?

    1. If the setup is old and used to work, check the upper jockey pulley for wear. Pointy teeth are bad. I just fixed that on an 8k mile setup. Otherwise do some rear derailleur shift point tuning.

    2. I would agree with Wilson that your jockey when and its bearings may be a little worn. I would also suggest that you carry out the fine tuning of the rear mech.

      1. Thanks for the tips.I will check the jockey wheels and replace them if necassery.

        1. I’ve ran into vague shifting on one or two gears when the drop out hanger is out of alignment.

      2. To a first-order analysis, picking the center between the edge setting where all shifts to the next larger cog work and the edge setting of where all shifts to the next smaller cog work should be good enough. And those two edge settings are found shifting individually across the full cassette on both chainrings. Eyeball centering of the chain and pulley under the cog may yield better chain life and lower drag than my method, but I do not know.

        In more detail, when fine tuning, for each rear cog there should be a range of settings where it both upshifts and downshifts. That range may not be the same for different cogs, and also may not be the same for a given cog with each chainring. And for the truly anal, it may not be the same on even tooth cogs depending on how the narrow/wide links of the chain sit on each tooth, as the teeth are different on that cog and adjacent cogs. And yes all this matters for those of us who use our own cogsets instead of cassettes.

  3. I’m having an issue adjusting the RD 9150 on my “new” SL5 S Works bike. The Di2 system won’t change onto the 11 (smallest ) sprocket. The high gear stop is well out and using e project set up it shows in the customising section that the derailleur is on the 11 sprocket, which its not. The same feature occurs at the low end of the cassette, when the chain is on the largest sprocket, eproject shows its on the 2 sprocket. It’s as if the whole cassette cage needs moving outwards. The 9150 has the hanger link which can be removed but that in theory at least will move the cage inwards. Additionally I doubt if there’s enough clearance on the inside of the frame to do this. Any thoughts?

    1. If you have the chain on the small front ring, it won’t go to the 12 or 11 sprocket anyway. You will only get the full 11 sprockets when using the big ring.

      As for the issue of the chain not going to the largest sprocket, this sounds like your fine tuning is completely to one side of its 30-odd increments.
      Follow th instructions on fine tuning, but press the button 40 times in one direction to ensure that you are really to one side . The. 20 clicks in the other direction.you should not be pretty close to centre,
      Click in one direction until you start to hear or feel the chain rubbing on the next sprocket. Then count the number of clicks in the other direction (e.g.12) until you get noise/feel in that direction. Now go 1/2 that number of clicks back.

      Hopefully, the fine tuning is now spot on.

      Reset your mechanical end stops. Should all be good now.

      1. Hi Stephen, thanks for taking the time to reply. On the firdt point I do have the chain on the big ring when on the 11 sprocket. The odd thing is that using the eproject RD adjustment system the gear shown is 10 not 11. And this error is repeated all the way through so that on the largest sprocket it shows that its sprocket 2, not 1. Using the fine adjustment that Shimano describe doesnt really help becase to get the chain onto the correct sprocket is at the end range of the 16 steps available and the chain is totally out of alignment. Bit of a puzzle this, my other bike with Di2 is perfect and as far as `i can tell the set up is identical.

        1. Author

          I’m assuming that you’ve set the mechanical limit screws on the derailleur to their limits and that’s not the problem.

          Most likely you have an issue with sprocket/hub/frame spacing. The sprocket needs to move relative to the hub. I think you need a spacer to move the sprocket outwards, but not positive. Or perhaps an adjustment to your derailleur hanger.

  4. We Stephen you wer partly right: I found the rear derailleur had not be correctly clamped with he link to the drop out not hard against the stop, if that make sense. I loosened the company and rotate he mech further around in an anti clockwise direction;that improv the gear selection quite a lt but not the missing cog.

    I gave upon hat but one o he consequences was th chain running on th largest sprocket and the large chaining. The solution to this was to alter the synchro shift map to blank out the No 2 sprocket. Now when changing down, because of the “missing” cog the shift goes to the small chaining and the No 4 sprocket from the N2 . I poet hat clear!! I’m quite happy now, the fact I can’t get onto the 11 sprocket is no big deal. But I’d till like to know how to know go to find it. My other Di2 bike, with exactly the me settings has all th cogs available. Again thanks for your comments. Regards, Davd

  5. hi there
    i andreas from indonesia
    i planing to upgrade my groupset to di2

    but i want a completely different setup to safe some money

    rd 6870
    fd 6870
    junction b
    junction a
    internal batt

    and for the shifter i likely want to do some DIY

    i planing to use bullhorn handlebar and aero bar

    brake lever is tt lever

    mechanism tipe

    and for the shifter
    can i go from diy? and without the dual control lever?

    1. Author

      You cannot go DIY on the shifters. They are not simple push button switches. The shifter buttons contain electronics/micro-controllers that send coded messages over the wires to the other components. You must use Shimano di2 shifters that contain the required electronics.

  6. You must use Shimano switches, but you CAN do a low cost DI2 install and build up as and when you have the money.
    Since you wish to use Bull-Horn bars, only the TT-style brake shifters would be suitable, and these are expensive (even on Ebay).

    1:/ Consider controlling the REAR mech only. (Run a single ring at the front, or use a manual mech).
    2:/ Use a SW-600 climbing shifter. This can be attached to the bars with a cable tie.
    2a:/ If you are using TT extensions, you can use TT bar end shifters
    3:/ Buy either the DN-100 battery mount (external fit battery) or DN-110 battery (this will save you buying one next year)
    4:/ Make sure to buy the 5-port junction.
    5:/ Think about where you can hide the battery and 5-port. (I use a small bento bag on the top tube )
    6:/ Use LONG cables direct from the 5-port to the mech. (This is more reliable and saves the need to buy & hide a JC-41 junction, and reduces the number of cables )
    5:/ If you want to control a DI2 front mech, you can do this by….
    i:/ Use SYNCHRO and control both mechs with the one switch
    ii:/ Buy a second SW-600 switch
    iii:/ Buy Di2 TT brake levers when you can afford them.

    https://flic.kr/p/2fJVXF7

  7. Hi

    Did notice a drain of the battery, after some tracing I located it to left shiffter and a leak-current of 2 mA so the drain problem was found.

    Have you seen something lika this? (and what can it be then, I didn’t have any Torx #5 home so I couldn’t take it appart)
    Is there anywhere to get hold of just the electronic in the shiffter?

    Before asking, yes all FW are up to date

    BReg
    Johan

  8. Greetings,

    i was wondering if i could take the Ultegra Di2 6780 from my spare bike and build it up by adding new hydraulic shifters to work on a Di2 disc frameset? I feel like i am missing something…

  9. Question :
    I have a 10 speeds Ultegra 6770 groupset on on Time trial bike, may it be possible to have DR 8050 derailleur in order to have 11 speeds (with a firmware version X.XX ?

    Or the only possibility to get 11 speeds with de 6770 groupset is to get RD-6870, or RD 9070 (with a FIRMWARE INSTALLED FROM E-TUBE SOFTWARE VERSION 2.5.2 OR EARLIER) ?

    Any suggestion ?

    I never update my firmware on my TT bike (6770 groupset) since I bought in 2013

    1. Author

      I don’t know for certain, but my guess is that the Ultegra 8050 is too new to work with your original firmware. The battery firmware would not recognize it.

      Your best option is to upgrade both the front and rear derailleur at the same time. The second best option would be a 6870 rear derailleur and no firmware update.

      1. Thanks, if I bought a Brand New one RD-6780 rear derailleur in a store (i Found some places) do you know witch firmware version is on it. Does It depends when Shimano produced it or by default they install the oldiest ?

        1. Author

          It’s hard to say which version of firmware will be installed. But it will most likely work without having to do anything. Worst case, you’ll need to update to the “last compatible” firmware version.

  10. Hi
    I have the full set / group Ultegra DI2 6870 – My rear derailleur got smashed when my gear drop broke and the shifter went into the wheel. My question is: Can I mix the group?`- I saw the new DI2 8050 Rear derailleur – Can I use this in my setup? or should I just stay with the 6870 components?

    Thanks
    I also want to add the EW-WU111 unit – to upgrade the system while I am at it!! 🙂

    Netzie
    Denmark

  11. do you have a printer friendly version of this post or a PDF i could get from you?

  12. Hello, I am a French user of Shimano Ultegra di2. Thanks for your page on di2, very useful! Please, could you tell me if I can charge my di2 battery (internal) with a mains USB charger. The seller of my bike told me that it is impossible and dangerous. I cannot understand why. The only difference between a mains USB charger (5V) and a laptop usb port is the amperage. I imagine that if the amperage is too low, it will not work. But if I use a mains USB charger (5V) with 2 A, for instance, I cannot understand where is the problem. It is more convenient to use such a charger than to go in my garage with the laptop. Thank you for your reply, best regards . Serge (France)

    1. Author

      I have been using an Apple iPhone USB charger for the past 6 years with no issues. It charges at 5 volts and 1 amp max. Any charger should be fine – the current output should be dependent on the device connected, not on the charger itself. If you want to be extra careful, use a small 1-amp mobile phone charger. But any USB charger should be fine.

      1. Many thanks for your quick and accurate answer. It’s more convenient to charge with a mains USB charger!
        I do not know why many sellers (at least in France) say that you have to charge only from a laptop. It’s an instruction that probably corresponds to a time when phone chargers were not powerful enough.

  13. Thanks for the great write-up. What battery is required to get Synchronized Shifting to work with the 6770 series? For an internal battery, will it work with the SM-BTR2, or does it absolutely require the new SM-DN110?

    1. Author

      Unfortunately, 6770 only supports multi-shift of the rear derailleur. It cannot be upgraded to syncro-shift between front and rear derailleurs.

      Synchronized Shifting: Starting with Dura-Ace 9150, automated Synchronized Sifting of the front derailleur is an option. Two SHIMANO Synchronized Shift modes will be available:
      Full SHIMANO Synchronized Shift: the front derailleur reacts based on the rear derailleur’s shift action. This essentially means that, when activated, there is no need for two separate shifters to control front and rear derailleurs, the two buttons on one shifter will control both derailleurs.
      Semi SHIMANO Synchronized Shift mode: the rear derailleur reacts based on the front derailleur’s shift action, shifting to the next most appropriate rear gear when the rider makes a front shift.
      R9120, R9170 – syncroshift enabled with firmware 3.2.0 or newer
      6870, 9070 – syncroshift enabled with firmware 3.2.1 or newer
      6770 – no syncroshift firmware update will be offered

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