2,485 Comments

1. 

   Hey team… I’m hoping someone on here may be able to point me in the right direction with an issue I’m having with my EW-WU111 BT module.

   I recently changed out my phone and now my E-Tube app is asking for my 6 digit pass key (pin code). For the life of me, I can’t remember what I set it to. I’ve tried the default 000000 and every other code I would usually think of using to no avail.

   Is it possible to reset the code back to default (i.e. factory reset)? Or any other tips?

   Thanks heaps in advance!

   1. 

      Author

      You’ll need to use the PC-based e-tube software and the USB wired connection.

      1. 

         Thanks Carlton… I had a sneaking suspicion that may be the case.

   2. 

      Author

      You’ll need to connect using the Windows version of E-tube and the USB wired connection.

2. 

   Hi, I am using an RD6870 rear derailler and a 12-25 cassette. When the chain is on the large front chainring(50) shifting up from 21 to 23 all works well. When I want to shift back from 23 to 21 i have to press the shifter 2 times and after that the chain goes from 23 to 19. When i have the chain on the small front chainring all seems to work well. What could’t be the problem?

   1. 

      If the setup is old and used to work, check the upper jockey pulley for wear. Pointy teeth are bad. I just fixed that on an 8k mile setup. Otherwise do some rear derailleur shift point tuning.

   2. 

      I would agree with Wilson that your jockey when and its bearings may be a little worn. I would also suggest that you carry out the fine tuning of the rear mech.

      1. 

         Thanks for the tips.I will check the jockey wheels and replace them if necassery.

         1. 

            I’ve ran into vague shifting on one or two gears when the drop out hanger is out of alignment.

      2. 

         To a first-order analysis, picking the center between the edge setting where all shifts to the next larger cog work and the edge setting of where all shifts to the next smaller cog work should be good enough. And those two edge settings are found shifting individually across the full cassette on both chainrings. Eyeball centering of the chain and pulley under the cog may yield better chain life and lower drag than my method, but I do not know.

         In more detail, when fine tuning, for each rear cog there should be a range of settings where it both upshifts and downshifts. That range may not be the same for different cogs, and also may not be the same for a given cog with each chainring. And for the truly anal, it may not be the same on even tooth cogs depending on how the narrow/wide links of the chain sit on each tooth, as the teeth are different on that cog and adjacent cogs. And yes all this matters for those of us who use our own cogsets instead of cassettes.

3. 

   just got a problem cant see left shifter in etube and also not working front derailleur.

4. 

   I’m having an issue adjusting the RD 9150 on my “new” SL5 S Works bike. The Di2 system won’t change onto the 11 (smallest ) sprocket. The high gear stop is well out and using e project set up it shows in the customising section that the derailleur is on the 11 sprocket, which its not. The same feature occurs at the low end of the cassette, when the chain is on the largest sprocket, eproject shows its on the 2 sprocket. It’s as if the whole cassette cage needs moving outwards. The 9150 has the hanger link which can be removed but that in theory at least will move the cage inwards. Additionally I doubt if there’s enough clearance on the inside of the frame to do this. Any thoughts?

   1. 

      If you have the chain on the small front ring, it won’t go to the 12 or 11 sprocket anyway. You will only get the full 11 sprockets when using the big ring.

      As for the issue of the chain not going to the largest sprocket, this sounds like your fine tuning is completely to one side of its 30-odd increments.
      Follow th instructions on fine tuning, but press the button 40 times in one direction to ensure that you are really to one side . The. 20 clicks in the other direction.you should not be pretty close to centre,
      Click in one direction until you start to hear or feel the chain rubbing on the next sprocket. Then count the number of clicks in the other direction (e.g.12) until you get noise/feel in that direction. Now go 1/2 that number of clicks back.

      Hopefully, the fine tuning is now spot on.

      Reset your mechanical end stops. Should all be good now.

      1. 

         Hi Stephen, thanks for taking the time to reply. On the firdt point I do have the chain on the big ring when on the 11 sprocket. The odd thing is that using the eproject RD adjustment system the gear shown is 10 not 11. And this error is repeated all the way through so that on the largest sprocket it shows that its sprocket 2, not 1. Using the fine adjustment that Shimano describe doesnt really help becase to get the chain onto the correct sprocket is at the end range of the 16 steps available and the chain is totally out of alignment. Bit of a puzzle this, my other bike with Di2 is perfect and as far as `i can tell the set up is identical.

         1. 

            Author

            I’m assuming that you’ve set the mechanical limit screws on the derailleur to their limits and that’s not the problem.

            Most likely you have an issue with sprocket/hub/frame spacing. The sprocket needs to move relative to the hub. I think you need a spacer to move the sprocket outwards, but not positive. Or perhaps an adjustment to your derailleur hanger.

5. 

   We Stephen you wer partly right: I found the rear derailleur had not be correctly clamped with he link to the drop out not hard against the stop, if that make sense. I loosened the company and rotate he mech further around in an anti clockwise direction;that improv the gear selection quite a lt but not the missing cog.

   I gave upon hat but one o he consequences was th chain running on th largest sprocket and the large chaining. The solution to this was to alter the synchro shift map to blank out the No 2 sprocket. Now when changing down, because of the “missing” cog the shift goes to the small chaining and the No 4 sprocket from the N2 . I poet hat clear!! I’m quite happy now, the fact I can’t get onto the 11 sprocket is no big deal. But I’d till like to know how to know go to find it. My other Di2 bike, with exactly the me settings has all th cogs available. Again thanks for your comments. Regards, Davd

6. 

   hi there
   i andreas from indonesia
   i planing to upgrade my groupset to di2

   but i want a completely different setup to safe some money

   rd 6870
   fd 6870
   junction b
   junction a
   internal batt

   and for the shifter i likely want to do some DIY

   i planing to use bullhorn handlebar and aero bar

   brake lever is tt lever

   mechanism tipe

   and for the shifter
   can i go from diy? and without the dual control lever?

   1. 

      Author

      You cannot go DIY on the shifters. They are not simple push button switches. The shifter buttons contain electronics/micro-controllers that send coded messages over the wires to the other components. You must use Shimano di2 shifters that contain the required electronics.

7. 

   You must use Shimano switches, but you CAN do a low cost DI2 install and build up as and when you have the money.
   Since you wish to use Bull-Horn bars, only the TT-style brake shifters would be suitable, and these are expensive (even on Ebay).

   1:/ Consider controlling the REAR mech only. (Run a single ring at the front, or use a manual mech).
   2:/ Use a SW-600 climbing shifter. This can be attached to the bars with a cable tie.
   2a:/ If you are using TT extensions, you can use TT bar end shifters
   3:/ Buy either the DN-100 battery mount (external fit battery) or DN-110 battery (this will save you buying one next year)
   4:/ Make sure to buy the 5-port junction.
   5:/ Think about where you can hide the battery and 5-port. (I use a small bento bag on the top tube )
   6:/ Use LONG cables direct from the 5-port to the mech. (This is more reliable and saves the need to buy & hide a JC-41 junction, and reduces the number of cables )
   5:/ If you want to control a DI2 front mech, you can do this by….
   i:/ Use SYNCHRO and control both mechs with the one switch
   ii:/ Buy a second SW-600 switch
   iii:/ Buy Di2 TT brake levers when you can afford them.

   https://flic.kr/p/2fJVXF7

8. 

   Hi

   Did notice a drain of the battery, after some tracing I located it to left shiffter and a leak-current of 2 mA so the drain problem was found.

   Have you seen something lika this? (and what can it be then, I didn’t have any Torx #5 home so I couldn’t take it appart)
   Is there anywhere to get hold of just the electronic in the shiffter?

   Before asking, yes all FW are up to date

   BReg
   Johan

9. 

   Greetings,

   i was wondering if i could take the Ultegra Di2 6780 from my spare bike and build it up by adding new hydraulic shifters to work on a Di2 disc frameset? I feel like i am missing something…

   1. 

      This is the latest compatibility cart from Shimano. It tells you what works together.

      http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.4.3-00-EN.pdf

10. 

    Question :
    I have a 10 speeds Ultegra 6770 groupset on on Time trial bike, may it be possible to have DR 8050 derailleur in order to have 11 speeds (with a firmware version X.XX ?

    Or the only possibility to get 11 speeds with de 6770 groupset is to get RD-6870, or RD 9070 (with a FIRMWARE INSTALLED FROM E-TUBE SOFTWARE VERSION 2.5.2 OR EARLIER) ?

    Any suggestion ?

    I never update my firmware on my TT bike (6770 groupset) since I bought in 2013

    1. 

       Author

       I don’t know for certain, but my guess is that the Ultegra 8050 is too new to work with your original firmware. The battery firmware would not recognize it.

       Your best option is to upgrade both the front and rear derailleur at the same time. The second best option would be a 6870 rear derailleur and no firmware update.

       1. 

          Thanks, if I bought a Brand New one RD-6780 rear derailleur in a store (i Found some places) do you know witch firmware version is on it. Does It depends when Shimano produced it or by default they install the oldiest ?

          1. 

             Author

             It’s hard to say which version of firmware will be installed. But it will most likely work without having to do anything. Worst case, you’ll need to update to the “last compatible” firmware version.

11. 

    Hi
    I have the full set / group Ultegra DI2 6870 – My rear derailleur got smashed when my gear drop broke and the shifter went into the wheel. My question is: Can I mix the group?`- I saw the new DI2 8050 Rear derailleur – Can I use this in my setup? or should I just stay with the 6870 components?

    Thanks
    I also want to add the EW-WU111 unit – to upgrade the system while I am at it!! 🙂

    Netzie
    Denmark

    1. 

       Author

       The latest compatibility guide is posted in the comment above: https://carltonbale.com/shimano-di2-everything-you-need-to-know/comment-page-18/#comment-135517

       You’ll likely need to replace your battery with the new version if you switch to an EW-WU111. Details are in the article above.

12. 

    do you have a printer friendly version of this post or a PDF i could get from you?

13. 

    Hello, I am a French user of Shimano Ultegra di2. Thanks for your page on di2, very useful! Please, could you tell me if I can charge my di2 battery (internal) with a mains USB charger. The seller of my bike told me that it is impossible and dangerous. I cannot understand why. The only difference between a mains USB charger (5V) and a laptop usb port is the amperage. I imagine that if the amperage is too low, it will not work. But if I use a mains USB charger (5V) with 2 A, for instance, I cannot understand where is the problem. It is more convenient to use such a charger than to go in my garage with the laptop. Thank you for your reply, best regards . Serge (France)

    1. 

       Author

       I have been using an Apple iPhone USB charger for the past 6 years with no issues. It charges at 5 volts and 1 amp max. Any charger should be fine – the current output should be dependent on the device connected, not on the charger itself. If you want to be extra careful, use a small 1-amp mobile phone charger. But any USB charger should be fine.

       1. 

          Many thanks for your quick and accurate answer. It’s more convenient to charge with a mains USB charger!
          I do not know why many sellers (at least in France) say that you have to charge only from a laptop. It’s an instruction that probably corresponds to a time when phone chargers were not powerful enough.

14. 

    Thanks for the great write-up. What battery is required to get Synchronized Shifting to work with the 6770 series? For an internal battery, will it work with the SM-BTR2, or does it absolutely require the new SM-DN110?

    1. 

       Author

       Unfortunately, 6770 only supports multi-shift of the rear derailleur. It cannot be upgraded to syncro-shift between front and rear derailleurs.

       Synchronized Shifting: Starting with Dura-Ace 9150, automated Synchronized Sifting of the front derailleur is an option. Two SHIMANO Synchronized Shift modes will be available:
       Full SHIMANO Synchronized Shift: the front derailleur reacts based on the rear derailleur’s shift action. This essentially means that, when activated, there is no need for two separate shifters to control front and rear derailleurs, the two buttons on one shifter will control both derailleurs.
       Semi SHIMANO Synchronized Shift mode: the rear derailleur reacts based on the front derailleur’s shift action, shifting to the next most appropriate rear gear when the rider makes a front shift.
       R9120, R9170 – syncroshift enabled with firmware 3.2.0 or newer
       6870, 9070 – syncroshift enabled with firmware 3.2.1 or newer
       6770 – no syncroshift firmware update will be offered

15. 

    hi, very useful info, can you help me with my query , I have a bike with the original install of ultegra 6770, with the addition of remote shifter button on the bars, I would like to know what is the minimum upgrade needed to give me synchro shift using these buttons on the bars

    1. 

       Author

       You’ll need to upgrade the front derailleur, rear derailleur, and battery to get multishift. And upgrade the firmware on all other remaining components. You’ll need at least Ultegra 6870 or newer derailleurs. This also means you’ll have to upgrade to an 11-speed cassette at your rear wheel, which may require a new wheel.

    2. 

       I have a related query. I also have the 6770 setup and I would like to replace the rear derailleur which is pretty scarce. If I go with a 6780 rd with upgraded chain and cassette leaving everything else intact, what software upgrade would I have to make to have everything work, I.e.-using all the other 6770 components?

16. 

    Carlton,

    I was wondering about the SW-R9150 Climbing shifters.
    I just upgraded to Hydraulic 9150 Di2 and see only 2 ports per STI lever.
    My previous Di2 the 9070 I had rim brakes and the sw-R610 sprint shifters, which
    I did the splice wire hack & had 2 of the sprint shifters on each side. One on the top for climbing & also on the drops for sprinting.
    Is this same hack able to be done with the new 9150 climbing shifters?

    If not, is there any way you might know of to still achieve this to get buttons in both places?
    I really like having the option of having the shift buttons on the top & the drops.

    Thanks so much fo rate excellent write up you did on the Di2
    Rob

    1. 

       Your R9170 levers should already have a remote button on top of the hood. I would presume that within the E-Tube APP, you would be able to program this button to do gear changes.
       You then only need 2 ports, one to connect to the junction, and the other free for connecting to an R600 switch.

       Of course you can use JC-41 junctions to provide more ports and connect many more switches to your handlebars !!

17. 

    I have Dura-Ace Di2, installed the wireless module, updated all firmware , and have connected to my Garmin Edge 1000. Everything is recognized. Neither the right or left hood switches are working. The Garmin Edge is displaying the battery level, gears etc so I know there is a connection. I’d like to use the hood switches to change the Garmin screens and the potential other functions. Suggestions would be appreciated. Cheer, Mike

    1. 

       Author

       Did you configure the buttons for Garmin control in eTube? I don’t have this hardware setup, so I’m not sure if that is required.

       1. 

          Yes. I am configured in etube. Is there a hardware fix / check to make sure the hood buttons are working?

          1. 

             Author

             Not to my knowledge, but I’ve never worked with that setup, so I can’t say for certain. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help.

             1. 

                Have you also configured your Garmin? As far as I know the EW-WU111 Wireless modules can send different signals (on 4 channels). You need to tell your Garmin what to do for each button.

             2. 

                I configured the d_fly software and configured it on the garmin. I even replaced the d-fly ew-wu111 in-line unit. All firmware is up to date. The garmin receives info but won’t send commands such as next-page or lap start/stop

             3. 

                Solved! I did a factory reset of the Garmin and all works now. Thx all!

    2. 

       The Garmin 1000 is a few years old. There is certainly mention of Di2 Sensors in a few of the older firmware updates. I would therefore suggest you check which firmware you are currently running (there should be a System “About” page on the screen). Current firmware is 15.20

       https://www8.garmin.com/support/download_details.jsp?id=6735

18. 

    Hi Carlton, thanks for all your work. We would like to use Di2 for a junior racing setup where the gear ratio is restricted. Is there a method for disabling the front shifter, leaving it in the small chainring only? Thanks.

    1. 

       I wonder if you unplugged it during set up using E tube then the SW would recognise its absence and maybe not try talk to it. You would loose a key feature though, that of the front mech auto trimming.

    2. 

       Author

       Unplugging the wire to the front derailleur will definitely prevent front front shifting. It will function like a 1x setup; a front derailleur isn’t required in a Di2 setup.

19. 

    If you do block the large chainring suggest talking to USA Cycling to verify legality. I know adjusting the high limit on the rear derailleur to block cogs is not allowed. I suspect blocking the big ring may be viewed in a similar manner.

20. 

    Hi Carlton, Hopefully you can help me. I have full Ultegra R8050 groupset with D-Fly. Groupset has been running fine until this week. Now to change gears (front or rear) requires two taps to the lever. It appears the first tap wakes the system and the second tap changes the gears. The same applies to buttons on the hoods to change the screen on my Garmin 820. I have logged into E-Tube App and all firmware is current and everything looks fine – no errors. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

    1. 

       Author

       I haven’t heard of this being a persistent problem. I’ve noticed this happening after the bike is unused for a while, but only after a long timeout period. What’s your battery level and do the indicator lights on the Junction A give any indication of a problem?

       1. 

          Thanks Carlton for your quick response. I have completed an error check of each component via the E-Tube App. No error found and each component fully functional. Initially I though this was a low battery issue so I fully charged the battery (seat tube version) but no change. The junction box shows no indication of an issue. I rode the bike again today after the E-Tube App full analysis last night and the issue still persists with every gear change from start to completion of the ride. One thing, the issue disappeared while the battery was being charged (via junction box to iMac usb). Based on this I am thinking it maybe a battery issue. I plan to take the bike to my local bike shop to hook it up to the PC tool rather than E-Tube App for analysis. Any thoughts?

21. 

    Hard to fine tune big/small shifting on R8070 di2

22. 

    Problems with shifting big/small on R8070…I built a bike during the summer and it is a Sworks Roubaix 2019 model. Fitted it with R8070. 50/34 crankset , 11/30 cassette and a RD-R8050-SS. My distance from center of crank to rear axle is 418mm and I put on a chain 110 links which is two links longer than recommended. I did this as on big/big, the cage was tight. I had to screw the B nut back as the chain was loose when on small/small(3rd smallest sprocket). Just last week I noticed, that when on big chain ring, when going from the big sprocket to the small one it took some time to get onto the 11 tooth and back up out of it. I then removed the two links to bring it to 108 links(54 inches) and it is still the same. The RD moves OK, but looking, it seems the guide jockey wheel seems close to the crakset( about 35mm forward of the 11T) I think that the RD moves, but the guide wheel is so far away from it, it is not pushing the chain close enough to the 12T to mount up on it. Have you any ideas?

    1. 

       I tend to follow Shimano’s or Park Tool’s guides on sizing my chain. Have a look at https://si.shimano.com and enter rd-rx8070 in the search box. Then open the “DM” (dealer manual) PDF file and have a look at their instructions. Note that their instructions vary depending on the largest sprocket you have.
       For the Park tool instructions, have a look at https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing

23. 

    so ive had my sm btr2 battery about 3 years,due to the amount of time it took me to gather my parts and build my bike ive only used it for 2 summers and charged the battery 4 times,now everytime I come to the bike the battery is dead,ive charged it and removed it from the bike,tested on a multimeter and it reads 3.2v surely it should read 7.4v on a full charge,even left off the bike the charge is diminishing day by day so it cant be a wiring issue on bike,surely it should have lasted longer than 4 charges and 2 summers and at £110 to replace is a bit of a kicker,ive now opened the battery and sourced two 14430 replacement batterys at £12 and was wondering if anybody has actually replaced the rechargeable batteries inside and had no issues as the firmware is stored in the electronics inside battery casing

    1. 

       Try recharging them with the usb port on your PC. I had a problem where the battery was not holding charge, and this sorted it out.( that was 22 months ago). The same problem came back about 10 months ago. Traced problem to my RD-6870-gs( it was drawing 2mA all the time) changed it and all still ok……………. Changed two batteries for friends and both showed up different problems, Took the two units apart and swapped the battiers. One hasnow the two problems and the other one is ok. Carried out a off load voltage test for three weeks, measuring the voltage at 6am and 6pm. All ok. Remember the battery unit has a master control unit in it as well. With the new battery unit you will get some new shifting options as well. I can outline the problems in detail if required.

       1. 

          Hi ive charged from laptop and from an ipad wall charger, I’m too using the Rd 6870 but as battery is still discharging off bike I assume its not Rd, if you wouldn’t mind outlining problems in detail that might help. Also so replacing the actual rechargeable batteries is an option then with the 14430s I’ve found online

          1. 

             Oh and what voltage does an off load di2 battery read

          2. 

             Battery Issues, Sept 2019. Mary and Tom SM-BTR2
             Mary’s battery (Focus Cayo) will not charge. It shows up a flashing orange led on the left symbol. SM-PCE1 shows up no fault.
             Tom’s battery ( Canyon) will charge and on the Fluke DMM, shows up 6.8volts. When testing the battery capacity with the SM-EW90-A, it is flashing red. If you try to change any gear, nothing happens. When plugged into SM-SM1, it shows up a message “Fault may be present”.
             On 28th September2019, I decided to swap around both battery sets to see if I could get one unit working (a little bit of soldering).
             Mary’s unit (with Tom’s two batteries) seems to be ok on charging and when connected to the SM-PC1.
             Tom’s unit, Flashes red on the right led on the charging unit. When tested with the SM-PC1, it showed up with a fault.
             Summary,
             Mary’s master unit is ok, just her batteries are damaged. Tom’s batteries are ok but he had a problem with his master unit.
             See the excel sheet in this file that has testing done in Oct 2019. I deem this battery to be ok and to return to spar

          3. 

             29/09/2019 11:30:00 7.89
             29/09/2019 18:30:00 7.88
             29/09/2019 21:00:00 7.88
             30/09/2019 06:30:00 7.87
             30/09/2019 18:30:00 7.87
             01/10/2019 06:30:00 7.87
             01/10/2019 19:00:00 7.87
             01/10/2019 23:30:00 7.86
             02/10/2019 06:30:00 7.86
             02/10/2019 19:00:00 7.86
             03/10/2019 06:30:00 7.85
             03/10/2019 20:30:00 7.85
             04/10/2019 06:30:00 7.85
             04/10/2019 19:00:00 7.85
             05/10/2019 11:00:00 7.85
             05/10/2019 19:00:00 7.85
             06/10/2019 15:00:00 7.85
             07/10/2019 16:00:00 7.85
             08/10/2019 19:00:00 7.84
             09/10/2019 18:00:00 7.84
             10/10/2019 18:00:00 7.83
             11/10/2019 20:00:00 7.83
             12/10/2019 18:00:00 7.83
             13/10/2019 12:00:00 7.82
             14/10/2019 21:00:00 7.82
             15/10/2019 19:00:00 7.82
             16/10/2019 21:00:00 7.82
             17/10/2019 21:30:00 7.81
             18/10/2019 06:30:00 7.81
             19/10/2019 11:00:00 7.81
             20/10/2019 19:00:00 7.81
             21/10/2019 20:00:00 7.8
             22/10/2019 20:00:00 7.8
             24/10/2019 20:00:00 7.8
             25/10/2019 20:00:00 7.79
             Date Time Voltage.

             See above data taken from a battery unit left disconnected for the duration of the test. DMM was only connected when a reading was taken.

             1. 

                Thx mine is reading 3.27 fully charged day 1,day 2 2.12v. Day 3. 1.27v will de solder internal battery and test each one individually

             2. 

                Solder in the new batteries. Let me know where you got them, I was looking for them, but they were too expensive compared to a new battery unit.

24. 

    traveling across country with bike, in a bike bag, in the back of a loaded car. Is there a way to shut off the battery so that I can avoid the possibility of the shifters continually shifting if something moves and leans against them during the trip?

    1. 

       Unplug the di2 cables from the shifters to the junction box, at the junction box during travel

25. 

    Bought batteries off ebay £5.99 each just type in 14430 battery, seems to be working for now, so sorted for just £12

26. 

    Hi, I’m looking at upgrading a Ribble Aero TT 10 speed bike I just got 2nd hand to Di2. It may be a 2015-2017 model and not Di2 compatible, so the battery & wires would all have to be external.

    I’m trying to way up the extra cost and hassle of converting the bike to 11 speed in order to get Di2 synchronized shifting, rather than just getting a FD-6770 & RD-6770.

    For the time trial bar-end shifters & climbing shifters, it’s noted that these shifters require the BT-DN110 Internal Battery for synchronized shifting. What about using the BM-DN100 external battery mount, that was listed as enabling synchronized shifting or are they slightly different?

    I could possibly mount an BT-DN110 Internal Battery inside the aero seat post, but I didn’t like the idea of drilling a hole in the carbon frame to get the wire out to connect it to the rest of the setup.

    Great article, very detailed, thanks

    1. 

       Author

       I haven’t used the external battery, so I can’t tell for sure. Check out the e-tube compatibility guide.

       https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.4.3-00-EN.pdf

       It appears that the external battery/mount BM-DN100 are compatible with syncro shift. Or the Built-in battery BT-DN110.

    2. 

       Hi I have update a 6770 bike. You have to update the battery to BT-DN110 and the front Derailleur to 6780 as well as the rear Derailleur to 6780 as a minimum. Sure there is a way to avoid updating and he FD but it’s way past it “end by date”. You’re best to update both. You can still use the same brakes they work fine. The only think you miss is the buttons on the top which most people use to adjust their bike computer.

    3. 

       Author

       By the way, I retrofitted my 2007 Cervelo P2c with internal Di2. Drilling holes in carbon isn’t that big of a deal. Just make sure you use new, sharp drill bits. Start each hole with a tiny drill bit and work your up to the desired hole diameter one bit at a time. Keep all holes at least 1 tube diameter away from joints between tubes (i.e. the wire entering the top front of the top tube should be at least a couple of inches away from the steer tube.)

       1. 

          And always the wear a dust mask

       2. 

          You really do not need to drill a frame. The Di2 cables are so easy to cut and re-solder, so you just need a hole big enough for the cable, not the end connectors.

          1. 

             Yes, you can cut the cable. It is a simple two core cable. Get some heat shrink (with glue inside it) and cover your connections afterwards. Just remember, once you have done this, the joint area will be stiffer ( not as flexible) than the cable. I have cut one of my spare cables for a test unit.

27. 

    hi does anyone no what it means when di2 says master unit not detected and would this affect the charger has no lights are coming on when plugged in

28. 

    Hi. I have a di2 6770, all working perfectly for years, until this morning when neither derailleur works – and no green light comes on (on the front junction box) when I touch the levers. The battery is fully charged. But I can get the red light to come on by pushing the adjustment button, and also do the “crash recovery” mode by holding the adjustment button down – which basically flips the rear derailleur through all the gears while spinning the pedals. So power is available, but I just can’t change gears using the levers. Any ideas?

    1. 

       Author

       That’s a weird combination of working and not working. Your best bet is to connect the PC and see if that gives indication of the bad component. Also, try disconnecting different components to see if that makes a difference. The most common issues are a bad connector, bad wire, bad battery.

       1. 

          You can check the battery charge by pressing any of the four shift buttons individual across the two shifters, this may prove all are working, some are not, or you have a battery issue. When we say battery, the master unit is also in the battery. I would disconnect the wire off each derailliuer and test shifting ,battery function. If you have a way of checking the voltage, each time you push a shift button, the line voltage goes up by between 0.3 and 0 5 volts, even if the assigned derailliuer is disconnected. This may help.

          1. 

             At the minute can’t check anything as battery is dead and when charger plugged in no light coming on so not charging, if I could get charge into the battery would it shift or work if I disconnected the master unit out of battery

             1. 

                Dont remove the master unit.See below if this helps.
                Battery Issues, Sept 2019. Mary and Tom SM-BTR2
                Mary’s battery (Focus Cayo) will not charge. It shows up a flashing orange led on the left symbol. SM-PCE1 shows up no fault.
                Tom’s battery ( Canyon) will charge and on the Fluke DMM, shows up 6.8volts. When testing the battery capacity with the SM-EW90-A, it is flashing red. If you try to change any gear, nothing happens. When plugged into SM-SM1, it shows up a message “Fault may be present”.
                On 28th September2019, I decided to swap around both battery sets to see if I could get one unit working (a little bit of soldering).
                Mary’s unit (with Tom’s two batteries) seems to be ok on charging and when connected to the SM-PC1.
                Tom’s unit, Flashes red on the right led on the charging unit. When tested with the SM-PC1, it showed up with a fault.
                Summary,
                Mary’s master unit is ok, just her batteries are damaged. Tom’s batteries are ok but he had a problem with his master unit.
                See the excel sheet in this file that has testing done in Oct 2019. I deem this battery to be ok and to return to spar

             2. 

                I had the original 6770 di2 with junction box. I fitted a Shimano Di2SM-EW90 junction port which worked perfectly and allowed me to debug and update the system. I recommend doing that as it a cheaper option for programming and debug than the older system

       2. 

          Hi Carlton, thanks for the quick response! I took it in to the bike shop who did the component checks, and apparently the bad component is the battery housing. A replacement has been ordered, will provide an update as to whether it sorted out the issue.

29. 

    Is there any where else I can plug battery in to test instead of junction box, maybe the ew90 control box would that let me operate anything on a test ie derailleur or a shifter. Reason for asking and not trying is battery is in bits because I think master unit is faulty but want to eliminate seat post connection before removing bb to get to Junction box

    1. 

       If you remove the cable coming up from the BB to the bb90 and plug the battery unit in here, you will need a di2 for this. This will eliminate down tube cable, job and derailliuers. You can check the shifter buttons for battery capacity. To do this, the master unit needs to be attached to the two batteries, only using the batteries, will not work.

       1. 

          Power in batterys but all is dead when master unit attached and connected to bike

          1. 

             It seems like the battery unit as a whole is faulty. If you get a new battery unit, you will have the latest development and will be able to do the two semi shifting actions. Other than that, you need to find a friend that will loan you their battery unit to check that you dont have other faults in your system. Remember a mech derailliuer has no major indexing issues, where the di2 has because between the motor and the cage, is a 1 or 2 arms & a few pivot points. I saw that wear on my 4 year old FD.

30. 

    Hi , Im moving FD-R8050 to a different frame , chain is not installed yet , now , there should be a clearance of 1 – 3 mm between the chain guide outer plate and the largest chainring , as i understand i should do that when FD is on small ring position , what about the RD , because depending on which position RD is at , FD will keep micro trimming “without shifting”

    1. 

       Disconnect the rear derraileur and remove the chain.
       Conenct the Front derrailuer to the DI2 cables and set it to the “big ring” position BEFORE installing.
       then install on the bike so you have the 1-3mm clearance. .

       Then follow the Shimano install instructions in the manual, including setting the parallel to the chain ring

       1. 

          Big Ring ? , on multiple videos like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PU2kQp9IeBc&t=36s , they adjust height while FD is on small ring ,, also what about RD , ofcourse being on small or big ring for FD is the main thing , but also FD micro-trim its position depending where RD is on the back ,

31. 

    I am currently in the process of gathering all the bits for a 1x Di2 setup. Got all the components, just need to mockup the frame to run string for wiring method and lengths. I am using the following parts:

    ST-R785 leavers
    XT M8000 mech
    BT-DN110 battery
    SM-BCR2 charger and PC interface
    EW-RS910 Junction A bar end
    EW-WU111 Di2 Wireless Unit
    SM-JC41 in downtube/BB area

    I’m facing a slight wiring challenge with my chosen shifters (they were by far the cheapest) as I think but am not certain they only have one port each. As my chosen Junction A only has two ports, it’s going to be a bit more difficult to wire than I first thought but should be able to get over it with either a EW-JC130 Y cable or another JC-JC41 inside the bars. Any tips or advice on this would be appreciated!

    What I would really like to know but cannot find the answer to is being that I am only having 1 mech, can I replicate eTap shifting logic with my chosen parts and say have 1 button on the right shifter to go down the cassette and 1 button on the left shifter to go up the cassette? Also with the remaining buttons on each shifter, can I use it to cycle my Garmin Edge 1000 screens being that I have the WU11?

    It was going to be a case of suck it and see once I’ve got it all wired up but if someone tells me now it can’t be done, I may be able to save some headache and wire costs by only wiring the right shifter and following the Shim shift logic of that shifter controlling both the up and down ton he cassette. (I really hope I can have the eTap way though!!!)

    Thanks
    Dan

    1. 

       You need
       Shifters (program these to do the same job in E-tube)
       JC41
       RS-910
       Battery (Must be DN-110 for use with EW-WU111)
       EW-WU111 Bluetooth
       Short cable for battery
       Short cable to EW-WU111
       Very Long cable for Mech.

       I did a similar thing on an old bike, with everything hidden inside the handlebars.
       If you use a Long cable to the rear mech, you can avoid using a JC41 in the bottom bracket.

       You can save money by removing the Bluetooth. and the DN battery.

       I have not tried to link to a Garmin.

       Even now with my Cervelo P5, I put all of the DI2 junctions and batteries in a small bag on the top tube. Very easy to access.

32. 

    Hello, thank you so much for such an informative article. I am trying to resolve the below problem, any help would be greatly appreciated.

    I purchased the new R9160 shifters, however cannot get them to work on my 6770 Ultegra Di2 (10s) set up, 2013 firmware most likely.

    Based on my reading I will have to update the firmware on all parts however I don’t have the pc wired adapter. Could I use the old ANT+ wireless unit (EW-WU101) and do this or am I better off finding a LBS with the adapter??

33. 

    Hello ,
    I moved my Di2 to a new frame , used 8050 manaul PDF to adjust it , i have a problem only when i’m at Big ring and smallest sprocket when i rotate crank at high RPM by hand , there’s a wiggle sound , i don’t know the source of it .. chain is Not bouncing on the sprocket , there’s No metal rub sound , only a wiggle sound .. i tried to adjust high limit screw to give more clearance for chain just in case , still the issue persist .. Please Advise

34. 

    Hi, I am in the process of building a Di2 bike with with removable aero bars and MTB derailleurs for a 3x setup. I would like to use the stem mounted SM-EW90-B (5-ports) so I can easily plug-in/remove the aero bars, but I also want to use synchro-shift and thus need the system information display SC-MT800 or SC-M9051. However, the system information display also acts as junction A.

    Will this setup still work with BOTH the SM-EW90-B and the SC-MT800 or SC-M9051?

    Many Thanks
    Henry

    1. 

       You should only require one junction.
       Can you describe the desiredset up a little better?
       What aero bars, ?
       What shifters?
       Why do want to remove the bars? Are these just TT extensions?

35. 

    Hi Carlton….great website! I am struggling with updating an external Battery holder SM-BMR1 which contains the SM-BTR1 battery to a firmware that supports the mixed environment FD6770 and RD6870. For some reason the latest Windows Shimano software does not find the external holder when using the Diagnostic tool SM-PCE02. Any idea why this is the case. I also exchanged the SM-BTR1 against 3 different ones with the same result. Do I need to use the older SM-PCE01 Diagnostic tool or maybe switch from SM-BMR1 to an SM-BMR2? What is also the difference between these two?

    Many thanks for your help
    Marco

36. 

    Carlton,

    Thank you very much for this comprehensive article on Di2. I will put it to good use.

    I purchased 6770, external components, in the first year or two of its introduction, to run on a CX bike that I also use for year round commuting – has worked extremely well. (I chose to never upgrade the firmware. As a result, an 11 speed rear derailleur works with this configuration 6870 tested).

    I will use your article as I piece together another bicycle with Di2, probably a combo of 10 speed and 11 speed components.

    Thanks again, Scott

37. 

    Carlton,

    Thank you for all of this very useful information. I know you and others have stated that synchro shift is not available on the FD/RD 6770. However, to me, it seems the latest E-tube compatibility chart, version 3.4.3, suggests otherwise.

    https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.4.3-00-EN.pdf

    There are footnotes in some places that say that synchro shift is not compatible with certain components, but I don’t see that in relation to the 6770 derailleurs.

    Am I misreading this chart?

    Thank you,

    Amory

    1. 

       Author

       Hi Amory,

       The footnotes for SyncroShift seem to be related to mountain bike group sets only, there’s not much detail for road group sets. I don’t think there is enough information in the compatibility chart to make a determination either way for 6770. I would be shocked if Shimano updated a group set from 2012 to add a new feature, especially after stating that they would not add that feature to 6770. I’ll check for a firmware update, but my suspicion is that there is not ever going to be SyncroShift for 6770.

       1. 

          I researched this a couple years ago and it came down to having the newer battery (DI2 with BM-DN100/BT-DN110). As I recall, the little computer in the battery is what made the automated shifting features possible.

          1. 

             Author

             I can say for certain that SyncroShift is not available on 6770. I have Di2 6770 with the BT-DN110 Battery and EW-WU101 wireless unit. I just installed the latest firmware on everything. When I select “shift mode settings” in e-tube for Windows, I get an error message stating that “no compatible hardware is connected.” SyncroShift is not possible on 6770.

             Syncroshift is possible on new groupsets by upgrading the to the new battery, but it is not available on 6770 because Shimano never updated the firmware on 6770 front and rear derailleurs to be SyncroShift compatible. This could be because of a hardware limitation, or it could be because they didn’t want to put the effort into older groupsets. Regardless, it’s not possible on 6770.

             1. 

                Thank you Carlton for looking into it and for your very fast reply.

38. 

    PROBLEMS WITH Shimano Ultegra R8070 Di2 Electronic 11X2V RIGHT BRAKE LEVER BRAKE FOR DISC BRAKE. Hello, I have to readjust the brake lever in the workshop every three or four exits because it has more and more travel, reaching to touch with the handlebar creating problems in the reliability and efficiency of braking. The circuit must be recharged and indented to solve the problem. This is normal? I would appreciate any indication to fix it. The equipment is new. Thank you

    1. 

       Hi, J. Tarruella.
       I have seen this issue come into my workshop a number of times. Every time the issue presents itself it has been a VERY SLIGHT LEAK on the system. It has never been the lever itself or the associated components. Each time it has been the connections on the hydraulic line that have become loose enough to leak the minutest amount, sometimes only when under strain from turning the handlebar. It is important to have the correct length of line, too short can result in strains on joint points.

       The FIND? Check the simple stuff first. Check all bleed points are properly closed and sealed [note the rubber o-ring on the lever bleed point]. Check every joint carefully for any sign of the minutest wetness. Strains on a line that is restricted because it is too short can lead to leakage only when under strain. This makes the reduction in performance very gradual.

       The EASY FIX for line leaks? Plumber’s PTFE tape on the compression ring making sure you do not put too much [two wraps is plenty] on and making sure you do not contaminate the system.

       The HARD FIX for line leaks? Completely replace the line, refill and fully purge the system of any air, making sure you do a good job on the reconnections.

       It is very doubtful, though not impossible, that it is the lever itself or the caliper.

       Good luck resolving this.

39. 

    Can EW90-B and a EW-RS910 Junction Box Co exist on the same setup ? I have a 5 port Junction box that is hidden inside a TT Cockpit (a hassle to plug to recharge), I want to add a RC910 for easy access to the charging port.

    1. 

       replace the EW90-B with 1 or 2 JC41.

       1. 

          Author

          Stephen is correct, you can only have one Junction A. If you switch to the RC910, replace the old Junction A with 1 or 2 of the JC41 junctions (e-tube wiring junctions with no internal electronics.)

40. 

    I have a basic Ultegra TT set up. I’m using bar end shifters with two switches on each. I have the 5port junction box. How can I replace this with the RS910 as the bar end shifters only have one cable. Many thanks.
    Ian

    1. 

       Author

       Ian, I’m not exactly sure what you’re asking, but I think you want to replace your 5-port junction with a RS910 bar-end junction and that you want to install it in place of one of your bar-end shifters. To do this, you’ll need to replace your existing 5 port junction with 1 of the SM-JC41 “non-electronic” 4-way junctions. (If you have brake/shifters as well, you’ll need 2 of the JC41 junctions to connect all wires.) You can place the JC41 anywhere – such as inside the bars or frame. Then just plug the RS910 into the existing wire for one of your bar-end shifters – you don’t have to use the second port on it.

       Also, you’ll obviously need to have a Syncro-Shift compatible system (and enable Syncro-Shift) to control both the front and rear derailleurs with only 1 shifter.

       1. 

          Thanks Carlton. Sorry I wasn’t clear. I’d like to keep both shifters but use the rs910 port instead of the 5 port junction box so I can tidy up the front end. It looks like to do this I need two wires going to the shifters but of course the two switch shifters just have one wire from each. Does that make sense.

    2. 

       If your Extensions are accessible from the rear, this is the neatest solution. This also assumes that you do not have buttons on the brake levers (more cables and junctions required.

       https://flic.kr/p/2jj5TJL
       https://flic.kr/p/2jj5RU8

       I have installed the battery inside one extension along with the RS910. A cable to link to a junction in the second extension and 2 short cables out.
       I use 2x JC200 connectors (or 1xJC200 and 1xEW-WU111 Bluetooth) and simply 2 long cables direct to the mechs.

       1. 

          Author

          So you will need to replace your five port junction with a JC 41 and add an additional E-wire.

    3. 

       IF your DI2 circuit already has the battery in the seatpost and a jc-41 down by the bottom bracket, your circuit will need to be like this. https://flic.kr/p/2jj6h8d

       1. 

          Thank you