2,485 Comments

1. Hi Carlton
   How do I rotate the SW-R671 Di2 2×10/11-speed Remote 2 button shifters

2. Can I replace my rear derailleur (9070)di2 with the latest type dura ace one I’m trying to fitt 30t cassette and can’t on present system

   1. Yes, but why not opt for the Ultegra RD? That will give you the option of 34t AND save you $.

      1. Wasn’t sure if these were fully compatible had actually thought a bought it .OK thanks for the advice I’m on it ..

   2. @Liam Buckley …above comment now several months past….same question pretty much…Have you gone down this road with the Ultegra RD and if so what feedback? I’m considering the DuraAce rd9150 for the same reasons. I have been able to configure my existing fd9070 to work with an 11-30t set but cannot get my E-Tube (3.3.3) to recognize this as a vaild configuration. Since the 9150 now retails (in Germany) at almost €500 it’s a serious consideration. Finally @Carlton am I correct in assuming that anything that is listed as a valid configuration in the E-Tube compatibility charts will work…meaning just swapping out the rear derailleur without having to also change the shifters. In summary will ST-9070L/R work with RD-R9150 without problem…

3. Hi , is using SM-BTC1 + BTR2 compatible with R8050 ?
   does using SM-BTC1 eliminate the need for junction B in this case ?

   1. Yes.

   2. Check it out here: http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-M8050-06-ENG.pdf

4. Hi Carlton
   I have a C-dale Synapse with ST-R785 Di2 levers (the first iteration of Shimano’s di2 hydraulic lever)
   i would like to be able to add some TT extensions with the TT Di2 shifters on the ends.
   Can I swap my 3 port junction for a 5 port junction box and add the shifters in?

   thanks
   Nathan

5. Hi Carlton. I keep getting a dead Di2… I cycle somewhere then leave the bike for a coffee for a bit then when I get back to the bike the gears are dead. I have to unplug the battery to reset. I wondered if this was due to heat – I think it happens when the bike is left on a hot day …. any thoughts would be much appreciated!

   1. a bit more on this – this morning I put my bike in direct sunlight and left it for 30 minutes – gears were working before trying this. Then after 30 minutes the gears were dead. I was thinking this might be the Bluetooth module so removed that, waited for the bike to cool down and the gears to work again and then left the bike in the sun again. Gears dead again.
      I plugged the bike into my laptop and got etube running which showed that the shifters weren’t recognised but everything else was. Have you ever come across a problem like this? Seems to be related to heat and the connections from the and including the junction box to the shifters…
      DI2 – R9170 components throughout. Any thoughts?

      1. Author

         Great troubleshooting! This is very odd. All of the components should work fine at common temperatures. It’s unlikely that both shifters are not working properly at the same time. So it’s more likely a cable or an A-junction. I would get an extra Etube cable and start disconnecting components/cables and connecting them directly with an external cable to isolate the bad component.

      2. I had a problem some months ago, but put it down to cold. I always left my battery go down to flashing red. Used the same charger (Mar 2015) to charge up. Same garage and around the same yearly temperatures. This spring I went out, indicator was flashing green. 30km into a 65km cycle, front derailluer went to small chain ring. Charged up once home. Within two or three weeks, the same thing happened again. I had a new cable cut in half and four 4mm multi meter test sockets inline. I checked the voltage drop each day at around the same time for about two weeks. Each day it dropped around 0.07 Volts. I remember I was ok on the bike on Good Friday, a 130km cycle with a few front derailluer shifts and the drop for that ride was only 0.03 Volts. I also checked each derailluer movement loading and using a Fluke ma grip on clamp meter, got around 9mA per shift. I thought the front derailluer would be more as that is the one that would remove your finger from your hand. I then removed the seat post and got the same results, 0.07Volt drop per day……New battery required. I changed my charger and have no problem since. I always charge now on flashing green. I have always been care full where I park the bike and watch where the buttons are resting….. One final point, I always park up on the small chain ring.Why, just in case the system thinks the voltage is low and wants to change down, I don’t want it happening in my garage and the chain pulling across the chain ring for a few days. I have more info, but traveling at the moment. I can send it on in excel/ Word doc.

6. Small question , about Full syncro mode , it allows automatic control of FD when i move up or down the cassette , but does it also allows auto. control of RD when i move between crank rings “like in semi-syncro mode”

7. Hi,
   just bought a frame with Di-2 pre-installed.
   Brand new R8050 mechs now fitted =by me during assembly.

   I have not had an opportunity to view the set up on the Ipad, but I notice that the rear mech is working 11 speeds whilst on the small ring, but only 9 when on the big ring.
   The previous frame owner (semi-pro triathlete) had not set up Synchro (I have tried double/triple clicking the A-Junction)

   Has anyone seen this operation before ??

   1. Morning Stephen

      On my bike it is the other way around, namely, when in the small chainring the RD will not shift onto the two smallest cassette sprockets. According to the Shimano Dealer Manual this is deliberate and part of normal operation, presumably to avoid extreme chain angles. I have not set up syncro or semi syncro shifting but have my system on M (manual mode so I’m using both shifters)

      1. Thanks for the reply. The avoidance of extreme chain angles makes sense, and the risk of the chain jumping onto the big ring without warning.

         I will have a closer look into this on this bike and my other bike which has 6870 fitted (with Synchro).

         I certainly note that my Synchro (rear) works it’s way through the ratios so that there are effectively only 16 gears in use. It does still allow me to force the front mech across.

         1. Hi Stephen I too have 6850 on another bike but that limiting feature was not present – I think it is a new feature to the R8000 series, maybe because the RD cage is brought slightly inboard. The only other difference which may have a bearing is that my 6850 has a short cage whereas my R8050 has a medium cage

8. Hi Carlton,

   Sorry in advance for this long-winded post but I need some help with my Ultegra Di2 RD 6870. I washed the bike after a particularly dusty ride a few weeks ago and since then my RD has stopped working. Ive tried a whole bunch of things:

   1.) Initially, i thought it was water damage, so i left it to dry in the sun…nope.
   2.) Then i thought maybe i should connect it to e-tube and see whats up: everything (including the gear position unit near the RD) gets recognised, but it cant find the RD.
   3.) I noticed my battery was also dying every 2 days or so, so i took out the battery and put a spare one on. Same result…so its not the battery.
   4.) I turned my attention next to the cables and junction box near the BB…thinking that maybe some water got pooled in the JB terminals and caused a shortage. So i took out my BB and played around with the JB swapping the cables. Again, RD doesnt work but all the JB terminals do.
   5.) RD cable. Next i connected my RD to the cable entering the FD, because the FD works fine. No dice. RD still doesnt work, so its not the cables.
   6.) Crash mode. Here’s one thing i’ve not been able to try. I noticed that when I press the button on my control box SM-EW90 junction, i cant get it to turn on calibration mode (solid red light). However, when i press the buttons on the shifter to check battery level, i can get the green and red lights showing the correct battery status. I havent been able to figure this out…the button on the JB essentially doesnt do anything. I hadnt needed calibration mode before this hiccup so i dont know if the button has always been faulty or it happened because of the wash.
   Even if it entered crash mode, i thought the RD would shift to the easiest gear automatically? Right now its stuck dead 3 gears from the easiest.
   7) Last, i havent been able to check the voltages heading to the derailleur or out of the battery. As soon as I connect the RD, the battery dies within 2 days, otherwise, it stays solid green after charging. Do you think this is the next step to take?

   I dont have a SM-PCE1 tool to directly connect the RD to e-tube, but with a normal e-tube connection via SM-EW90, i can see all the components except the RD…so I know the EW90 is also working fine! Unfortunately, im in a place where there are no LBS’s nearby that can diagnose or look at Di2 components, so im on my own here.

   Help! I didnt expect the RD to be dead after a few mins of water spraying when i’ve ridden through much worse conditions on the road!!

   1. Sorry for the double post.

      I have had this issue and here is my tuppence worth.

      Diagnosis via the PCE1 is the best way to go, almost always, though even that can lead you astray if your battery is not adequately charged.
      For example, if your battery is not adequately charged the PCE1 can simply list that the system will not work without certain components, even if they are all present and correct.

      I recovered from a similar scenario to yours by simply making sure the battery was fully charged before moving forward. I used two batteries and both needed topped up! Yep, silly, but that was it.

      If fully charged batteries fail to resolve the issue, [assuming you are not simply following procedures to exit emergency/crash mode] then you want to PCE1 diagnose your RD [directly] and check all is up to date and error free.

      Enjoy Di2. We love it!

      1. Thanks James. Unfortunately, i’ve also tried that. I’ve charged the batteries for 8-12 hours at a time (more than their recommended 2-4 hrs) because everytime i connect the RD, the battery dies within a day…without the RD, it keeps going without problems. I’ll try it again anyway…thanks.

9. I have had this issue and here is my tuppence worth.

   Diagnosis via the PCE1 is the best way to go, almost alway, though even that can lead you astray if your is not battery adequately charged.
   For example, if your battery is not adequately charged the PCE1 can simply list that the system will not work without certain components, even if they are all present and correct.

   I recovered from a similar scenario to yours by simply, making sure the battery was fully charged before moving forward. I used two batteries and both needed topped up!

   If fully charged batteries fail to resolve the issue, [assuming you are not simply following procedures to exit emergency mode] then you want to PCE1 diagnose your RD [directly] and check all is up to date and error free.

   Enjoy Di2. We love it!

10. I have a Dura Ace dI2 and the rear derailleur has stopped working. I recall there was a clicking noise before it stopped. I have replaced the external battery but this hasn’t helped. I have swapped rear and front mech cables and the rear shifter will work the front derailleur. The rear derailleur will automatically shift in protection mode but then will not work with the shifters. Any further ideas would be much appreciated.
    Thanks
    Marcus

    1. Author

       Your best bet is to use the PCE1 computer tool for full diagnostics. Short of that, it seems like you have a failed rear derailleur. So you can either use the PCE1 to do a full diagnostic, or get a new rear derailleur.

       1. Author

          It sounds like you have a failed rear derailleur. If it has the same problems when connected via a different wire (i.e. the front derailleur wire), then you can rule out cables and assume it’s the derailleur that is failed. You can probably confirm via the PCE1, or you can get a new rear derailleur and see if that fixes it.

11. So to adjust the auto trim on the front derailleur when in the 6th gear you enter adjustment mode on the big\big then move to the small ring and 6th on the rear and make the trim adjustments? Is that how it works as I’m having a slight rub on outer edge of FD.

    1. Hi all, just a quick question, has this happen to anyone before. My external battery support suddenly stopped working. Below I describe what happened.
       I have had DI2 for ages, with no real problems. I have be racing and training with for the past 3 years (55,000km+) in this set up 10sp front derailluer with a 11sp rear derailluer and I have not had a single problem as I have never bothered doing any updates(as I know about the bug issue). But last weekend in a race a guy crashed into me breaking my rear derailluer. So I bought the same 11sp derailluer again. I fitted to the bike and it all worked fine for about 5mins, then I put it in to the adjustment mode and then all of a sudden the bike just shut down. Nothing at all, no lights, no front or rear derailluer working. So I connected the SM-PCE1 and it found all the items (it obviously comes up that the front and rear derailluer are not compatible- but we know this not to be true). The only thing it did not find is the external battery support. So I tried connecting this direct still it was not showing it was connected. So it is possible that the new derailluer can send a bug to stop the battery support working. If so how? And if I buy a new battery support and new front derailluer will it work?
       Many thanks for any help with this matter.

12. Hi
    I have what I thought was a simple problem, but can’t find answers anywhere.
    I have a Di2 system with BT-DN110 battery and D-fly EW-WU111. It works fine with synchro shifting and all and deliveres info to my Garmin 1000 on which gear combination I’m in. Now I have changed the rear cassette from 11-28 to 11-30 but it still displays gear combinations on my Garmin as if I had 11-28. I can change the gear numbers on the Garmin to 11-30 but after a few seconds the D-fly overwrites it back to 11-28. In the E-tube program I don’t get the 11-30 option – only 11-25, 11-28, 12-25, 12-28, 11-23, 14-28. I guess it doesn’t have any impact on the actual shifting – seems to work fine, but it annoys me to get a wrong gear number reading on the Garmin.
    Thank you in advance.

    1. You have told E-Tube that you are using a RD-6870 SS rear mech. You need to change this to the GS version. This will then give you the 11-30 option.

       1. Hi Stephen
          Thanks for your quick reply. My rear derailleur is a RD-9070 SS and E-tube recognizes it automatically. When I try to change it to 6870 GS I can see options which ao. gives 11-30, but when trying to save it says: “unable to recognize unit RD-6870-GS.

          1. That is because Shimano don’t think the short cage RD works with a 30 tooth sprocket! 🙂

             1. But it does So I just have to live with the wrong info on the Garmin? Seems too expensive to buy a new derailleur just to get the right reading on the Garmin
                Thank you. I am very impressed by your quick response and looking forward to following the blog in the future.

13. So glad for your page. Using almost exclusively the information here, I upgraded my tt to di2 and haven’t looked back. Now I’m getting ready to build a new bike up over the course of the next year, and was planning to do dura ace di2, but after finding out that the bar end shifters for DA are single control and everything relies on synchro shifting, I’m having second thoughts. I’d love to know what you think about it – you know how we humans are about change. I’m okay doing an ultegra build – just finally was at a point in my life where DA was an option if I build slow. And I’m just not sure how I feel about ONLY having the option of the synchro shifting. Thanks in advance

    1. Author

       For Ultegra vs. Dura-Ace, that’s more of a personal and financial decision. The two are extremely similar.

       For SyncroShift and the number of buttons on the bar-end shifters, that’s a separate decision from Ultegra vs. Dura-Ace. All shifters are compatible with all derailleurs. For me, given that the pricing is about the same, it would definitely get 2 of the 2-button shifters instead of 2 of the 1-button shifters. If you want to go pure SyncroShift control, just use the rear derailleur shifter or program both to be rear derailleur shifters. If you decide you want front derailleur control occasionally, then use the second shifter only when you need it. And if you decide you hate SyncroShift, you can turn it off completely using the PC or Smartphone software and still have all the buttons you need.

       I do not like the single button bar-end shifters. If I only wanted 2 buttons for exclusive SyncoShift, then I would order a single 2-button shifter and use a bar plug in the other location. This would save both cost and weight.

       1. I have a 2015 bike with 6870 DI2. I see a Dura ace RD9150 SS for sale. Is this work with mu DI2 system and will the cable connect ok.

          1. Author

             Yes

14. Fantastic post and really helpfull, thanks alot. One question, do you know if you can connect two right hand levers to one di2 setup, den reprogram one of them to serve as a left lever? I don’t care about mounting the acctual levers I just need the electronics inside for a DIY TT setup. I theory this could work, since you can program the levers to do pretty much whatever, but my concern is that the whole system might protest when there is two right levers connected?

    1. Author

       You should be able to use 2 right levers at the same time. You would need to connect them individually when configuring them with the Etube software, but after initial configuration, they should both work on the same bike at the same time. I haven’t tried this myself, but have seen it mentioned by others. Please let us know how it goes.

15. Managed to lose the wireless / Wifi signal whilst updating the firmware to my DN100 battery holder, so effectively “bricked it” (as I believe the term). Tried updating again but no joy after 2 hours.
    I have dropped the DN100 off at the local bike shop as they have the SM-PCE1 and should be able to do the firmware by hard wire.

    NOW………since I have a MAC computer, is there any point buying a PCE1 ?? Have Shimano come out with E-Tube for Mac yet ??? (I suppose I could “borrow” a Windows PC from the kids)

    Would I actually NEED a PCE1 ??? I do have a SM-BCR2 charger as well. Could I use that instead ??

    1. Author

       I installed Windows via Bootcamp on my Mac to address those “hardware utilities only works with Windows” scenarios.

       You probably could have recovered the battery using the SM-BCR2 on a Windows computer. In E-tube for Windows, there is a separate icon that shows just a wire symbol. It is on the far right of the screen. You select the type of bike you are connecting to, then pick a device-type (i.e. battery) and manually apply the firmware update. (The PC cable must be connected to just that one device.)

       1. I took the DN100 to my local bike shop and they hooked it up to a PCE1 and sorted it.

          I was considering buying my own PCE1…..but then remembered I don’t have a Windows computer !! (Just Apple)

16. Hi Carlton, I have a TT setup with single bar end shifters set up by dealer. On first ride I found the synchro shift doesn’t work and I’m stick in big ring. All components register on E tube and synchro shift is selected and FD will micro adjust with rear cassette chain movement but chain won’t move to small ring as it’s supposed to. Bike shop say bring it back for analysis but that’s a days drive away. Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks

    1. Author

       I’m wondering if the gearing needs to be configured in etube. That has to be done so the appropriate gear ratio transitions occur. I haven’t had to do that, so I don’t have details…

       1. I suspect that you need to tell E-tube what gearing you are using, and also when you want the shifting of the front to occur.

          You do also need to ensure that you have synchro assigned to at least one of the modes of the A-Junction. (It will not do synhcro mode if it is not in Synchro !!).

          Another option you can do is to fit and hide a SW-R600 climbing shifter which can operate the front mech. Quite handy to have this if you are facing a hill climb and you know you need the granny-ring !!

17. I have a 2015 Focus Cayo 2.0. It has 6870 DI2 groupset on it. If in the future I need to replace parts, can I use a R8050 rear derailleur instead of the 6870, the same with the front derailleur. The main part that I might want to change is the front crankset, I know the R8000 has about 0.4mm less difference between both chain rings. can this work ok with my FD-6870 front derailleur ?

    1. Author

       As long as the derailleurs have the same number of speeds/gears, they should be compatible. I don’t think you need to replace your front derailleur to switch the front crankset. There’s plenty of adjust-ability and 0.4 mm is negligable and could easily be accounted for in trim settings. The only reason to switch rear derailleurs is to go from 10-sprockets to 11-sprockets, or from a shorter cage to a longer cage to accommodate larger rear sprockets.

       1. The reason I would be changing the rear derailluer, would be if it stopped working or was damaged, then it would be, get an 6870 or the newer 8050 which may be more easier available at that time.

18. Hi C
    I have some different parts home since earlier and try to get a set working for one of the bikes in the for the family and it seem to be working but I do not have an extra charger for a SM-BTR1 battery (BCR1) but I have one BCR2 and the the bike do have a EW90 connector will this work with a BMRx or DN100?
    (This bike (owner also) will most likely move from home and need to possibility to charge)

    1. Author

       The charger for the internal battery will not charge the external battery, if that is what you are asking. The charger port on the 5-port Junction A only works on the internal battery.

19. I would like to confirm a few things before trying to update a system with an external battery.

    1. The bike has the 5 port A junction – not the old style with integral cables. Nothing to change.

    2. The original battery mount needs to be replaced with a BM-DN100.

    3. The part that isn’t totally clear, some web sites indicate the “brains” are in the battery. Yet the Shimano compatibility page indicates the current external battery is the SM-BTR1. Will my SM-BTR1 from 2015 work?

    4. From the Shimano compatibility page there appears to be two Ant/Bluetooth transmitters: EW-WU101 and EW-WU111. Are there any functionality differences?

    5. Is there any reason other than not having an external battery to change to an internal battery?

    1. Author

       From what I recall about the external battery, the “brains” are in the battery mount, not the battery. For the internal battery, they are in the battery. So your external battery should work in in the new mount.

       From what I can tell, EW-WU101 and EW-WU111 are functionally the same.

       The reason for the internal battery vs. external is mostly aesthetics, and perhaps a tiny bit more water protection.

20. Any chance you can update the download link for E-tube_Proj_V_2_5_2.exe? Thanks!

    1. Author

       I updated the download link to https://carltonbale.com/wp-content/uploads/E-tube_Proj_V_2_5_2.zip

       1. Thanks so much!

21. Hi,

    Can the new bar end shifters SW-R9160 be used on a 6870 road setup (with the old internal battery from 2016, no synchro shift), connecting them directly to a SM-EW90-B junction (the one with 5 connectors) to shift the rear derailleur, just like the SW-9071 shifters?

    I’ve read that they’re only compatible with the 9050 road STI, and you also refer they that “These shifters require the BT-DN110 Internal Battery for synchronized shifting.”, but what if I want to use them just as normal shifters, like the SW-9071, one goes up the cassete, the other goes down. Nt possible?

    Thanks for your help!

    RP

    1. Author

       They should be compatible as long as everything has the latest firmware. They use the standard shit commands.

    2. I did that combo on my Madone 9. It works flawlessly.

    3. Thank you both for your answers!

22. Hi, Thanks in advance for all your help. I’m still a little confused.
    I am currently running a bike with all the original old 6770 components, with the external battery, and the old SM-EW67 junction box, and everything is still working perfectly.
    I recently purchased the new R8050 FD and RD and an 11 speed cassette. I stupidly thought everything would be plug and play as i was replacing both FD and RD together, but when I did this, nothing worked.
    So I went to the local bike shop here (Chiang Mai) and he was able to update the software to the latest version, (the software had never been upgraded on the bike since purchasing it) but he said in order for the RD and RD to work, I will need to replace the front junction box also? Is this info correct? And therefore I will need two extra connecting wires to connect the new SM-EW90-A? Will my new shiny R8050 FD and RD work then?
    Thanks again!

    1. Author

       That is correct. The old junction does not work with newer components.

    2. I use a 6770 Front Derailleur with an 11 Sped RD 6870 and the EW67A Junction – that work flawless – subject to the condition the you downgrade the firmware.

       1. Hey JurIJ, Do you have an internal or external battery? Thanks!

          1. I am running an external battery

23. I have 6870. I see where I can pick up a spare set of levers, I was thinking of getting them as I have worn the coating off the levers and If I see or drop it , I would be ready to go. The other idea is wait and fit a set of the 8050. Will this work and I see they have hidden buttons under the hoods, what are these for ?

24. Is there any reason I can’t use a JC-40 (external) junction B as an internal junction B.

25. I have a new Focus Paralane Di2 and I added the EW-WU111 BT module. Downloaded the E-Tube app to my phone. It all hooks up and recognizes all the components. Updated all firm ware ok. The problem is that the system shows the standard cage SS rear derailleur when I have the long cage GS model, so the rear cluster choices do not include my 11/34 rear cluster. Any idea how to correct this?

    1. Author

       Steven,

       Sorry to hear about your issue. I haven’t run into this issue before. My best guess is that it’s an app issue. The Etube windows software may correctly recognize the derailleir and it’s capabilities. I would try that, or submit a big report to Shimano and wait…

       1. Thanks for your reply. After looking at the rear cassette closer I found that Focus installed an 11/30 and not the advertised 11/34. So they used the SS mid cage rear derailleur as a result. This bike was brand new in the factory sealed box, so it was apparently a production change for whatever reason.

    2. Perhaps yours is actually the short cage model…and a previous owner has fitted the long cage to it ??

26. A friend of mine bought a S-works Tarmac second hand, great bike but geared for a pro. He has short body so if I change the front crankset from 53/39 to 52/36, will the Dura ace 9070 di2 front derailleur still do with the smaller rings. if I want to put a large range cassette in the back(CS-R8000, 11/30 or 11/32) can I put a 6870 med cage on the Dura ace RD or chamge the rear derailleur to a 6870 or a newer R8050 with the longer cage?

    1. Author

       All of the 11-speed compatible derailleurs are interchangeable. You just can’t use older 10-speed versions.

       1. The front mech will have no problems with a 52/36 or even a 50/34, the same mech does them all, you may need to adjust the position on the seat tube of the mech if its a long way out, the bottom of the mech should be just clear of the teeth, you can make your own guide from your present set up!

          1. Has anyone put a GS cage on a RD-9070 from a ultegra 6870?

27. Just setting up a 6870 system with a BTR2 but am getting no connection . I have a green light at the junction a that indicates 100% power but no transfer to the derailleurs? Something simple I hope.

28. Just fitted a FC-R8000 34/50 crankset where a S- works crankset was on a BB30. I fitted in two BB30 to 24mm adaptors. The DI2 sysltem is 9070. All looks fine, but I would have liked more inward movement on the front derailluer cage. In the small ring and big cassette, I just gotabout 0.5mm and when out on the big ring, the crank arm seems to be close enough to the derailluer as it passes through. When I was setting it up, I could not get the movements asked for using the feeler gauge. I could try to take a skim off the drive side adaptor to move the crank inward slightly.

    1. Slight brain fade this morning. If I can not get the front derailleur to move inward more, I might get a thin washer/spacer to mover the crankset out further (0.5 to 1mm).

       1. Set the front mech as per the instructions – find Shimano TechDocs online. You want the DM-UL0001-04-ENG document.

          Once you have physically set the front mech, carry out a front mech “TRIM” .

          Plenty of sellers online with “Shim Washer”. you will want 24 – 25mm internal diameter and thicknesses around 0.3mm.

29. TT bike has been losing its charge for some time now so thought now is the time to finally address this issue. I can charge it up and then within a few days the battery is flat. What is the best way to find out why its not holding charge?
    Thanks

30. Hey there. I have a 2014 ultegra di2 6770 original set up that I’d like to upgrade to work wirelessly with my iPhone and take advantage of the newer features with my Garmin edge 520. I was given a EW-WU101 for Christmas but I understand from reading this that it won’t work unless I upgrade some other components (including the firmware). What do I need to upgrade/replace from my original di2 in order to get the wireless capability working? Thanks.

    1. Author

       Leigh, you will need a new internal battery and will need to update the firmware of everything using the Windows eTools software. You will then be able connect and configure via the mobile app over Bluetooth. I recommend setting up a Bluetooth pairing PIN code in eTools; this will help prevent others from connecting to your bike Bluetooth and reconfiguring, either accidentally or on purpose.

31. I just want to say thanks for the time and effort you put into this write up. It confirmed for me that I need to bring my ride to my LBS to upgrade my Ultegra Di2, which I want to pair with a Wahoo Elemnt Bolt. I know I’ll need a new battery and the etube cable at a minimum. I figure if I give it to him there’s a fair chance I’ll have the bike back by spring, as opposed to trying to do it myself.

    1. My battery starting draining lately. It looks like the RD 6870 GS is the problem. This morning the battery voltage with everything connected was 7.48V. Disconnect the RD and the voltage goes up to 7.68V. The battery voltage has dropped every day over the last two weeks with everything connected, but holds when everything is disconnected. I put a Fluke DC grip ampmeter on one lead to the RD ( I have a test lead made up) and it is drawing 1.98mA. continuously. It looks like I have a fault on the RD. I will try and calibrate the whole system and see if the current drain goes away.

       1. This evening, I hooked the bike up to the SM-PCE1 and items up to date, rang the error check on all components, and all is ok. I have no battery drain when only the RD is diconnected. I put the bike up on the bike stand, removed the rear wheel and drove the RD up and down, all seems to move, just I noticed that when going inwards at the end you could hear it clicking between 5 and 10 clicks. As I wrote above, when the RD is connected, the voltage drops 0.20V. I did a little bit of testing now at this stage, If I move the RD with my hand in our out, the voltage would go back to normal. I am wondering if there is wear in the RD linkages that is causing this. I will remove it tomorrow evening for closer look……..MY RD is a RD-6870-GS, I do have both bolts and springs and the gage plates spare. I did buy in a sale recently a RD-6870-SS which I am going to swap out to a GS with my spare plates and the bolts/springs. I run a 11/30 cassette. I will be upgrading my Garmin 500 to a 1030 next week so I might change the battery and get the wireless unit as well. …My bike is a 2015 Focus Cayo 2.0 and I think I have about 23,000km done on the bike.

          1. You (or your bike shop) may have made the simple mistake of setting the end stops incorrectly.
             During normal operation, a Di2 mech moves slightly beyond the next gear in order to get a clean & swift gear change. the mech then moves back into line.

             As part of initial setting, you need back the mechanical end limit screws out, and shift the mech to (for example) the largest sprocket. Screw the limit screw IN until is just touches, and then unscrew 1.5 turns.

             You may have already done this when you initially set the system up, but even a little dirt around the mech can restrict the movement. The Di2 will fight to move to its destination, hence a battery drain

             1. Thanks for that, I was thinking of this as well, but whwen leaving the bike unused, I select the small chain ring as if the battery or it thought the battery dropped voltage the FD would betrying to go from the big ring to the small one. During this time, I alway make sure that the chain on the cassette is between the second big sprocket and the middle one. I did in the last few days take off the leverarm from the motor and it looked a tiny bit bent, not sure if it is enough to cause a problem. I did notice on the other side of the motor shaft, a little bit of wear on the shaft. With the RD connected back in, bit with the link arm removed, and advancing the motor, my battery voltage has stabilized. I will rebuild it and recalibrated it as see how it goes at the weekend. Whewn I am cycling it is working ok.

32. First of all, thank you for putting this webpage together.
    I have bought a new frame and a Ultegra R8050 upgrade kit, plus the EW-RS910 end plug.

    I have the DA9070 groupset with sprint shifters on my current bike and would like to move all of these components to the new frame, leaving the DI2 battery and cabling in place on this frame. I then want to fit the Ultegra R8050 upgrade kit to this bike, with the exception of the battery and the end plug which are to be fitted to the new frame

    Q1. Are the Ultegra R8050 components compatible with the DA9070 DI2 wiring and battery? And vice-versa,
    Q2. Are the DA9070 DI2 components compatible with the R8050 wiring and battery? Me. I think so.
    Q3. Is the DA9070 chainset compatible with the Ultegra R8050 front mech? Me. Not so sure.

    I have received conflicting advice on these 3 questions. I have read the Shimano DI2 compatibility table, but to be honest, for me that might as well be written in Japanese.

    Many thanks in anticipation of a response.

33. My battery starting draining lately. It looks like the RD 6870 GS is the problem. This morning the battery voltage with everything connected was 7.48V. Disconnect the RD and the voltage goes up to 7.68V. The battery voltage has dropped every day over the last two weeks with everything connected, but holds when everything is disconnected. I put a Fluke DC grip ampmeter on one lead to the RD ( I have a test lead made up) and it is drawing 1.98mA. continuously. It looks like I have a fault on the RD. I will try and calibrate the whole system and see if the current drain goes away…………………………….This evening, I hooked the bike up to the SM-PCE1 and items up to date, rang the error check on all components, and all is ok. I have no battery drain when only the RD is diconnected. I put the bike up on the bike stand, removed the rear wheel and drove the RD up and down, all seems to move, just I noticed that when going inwards at the end you could hear it clicking between 5 and 10 clicks. As I wrote above, when the RD is connected, the voltage drops 0.20V. I did a little bit of testing now at this stage, If I move the RD with my hand in our out, the voltage would go back to normal. I am wondering if there is wear in the RD linkages that is causing this. I will remove it tomorrow evening for closer look……..MY RD is a RD-6870-GS, I do have both bolts and springs and the gage plates spare. I did buy in a sale recently a RD-6870-SS which I am going to swap out to a GS with my spare plates and the bolts/springs. I run a 11/30 cassette. I will be upgrading my Garmin 500 to a 1030 next week so I might change the battery and get the wireless unit as well. …My bike is a 2015 Focus Cayo 2.0 and I think I have about 23,000km done on the bike.

34. I have heard that Shimano screwed their users over with no auxiliary ports on the hydraulic versions of the di2 brake/shift levers. Not sure if it’s totally true across all models.
    You would not happen to know if the R8050 Ultegra levers have the extra 2 aux ports that the 6870 levers had by any chance ?
    Thanks
    PS I went to shimano’s site for the model and they just stated in the owner’s manual pdf. That some models do and some don’t and to pull up the hood covers and check….geez
    >>> From the 8050 lever owners manual:
    “*1 Depending on the specifications, some models do not have the function.
    Pull back the bracket cover of each lever and check whether it is fitted with a remote
    switch.
    *2 The number of ports in the E-TUBE port section varies by model.”

    1. The levers that have 3 ports (road) the third port is for a sprint Shifter button R610, and bypasses the “remote” function, it’s just a simple switch. The levers that have 2 ports (hydraulic) are not compatible with sprint Shifters buttons, but do have a port for “remote” functions.

       You just can’t use a sprint Shifter.
       You can also add a remote to the system without going through the levers as well, so in reality the levers only need one port.

       There are two remote shifter types R600, and R9150, the R9150 are similar to the sprint Shifters, but can be programmed unlike the R610 sprint Shifters.

35. Good night,

    Excellent information regarding the Etube system. I have a groupset shimano 6770 and i got a 6870 rear derailleur, but I need to “outdate” the software to version 2.3.0, but I can not find this file anymore. Would you have? Thank you.

    Hugo Gomes

36. hi there.I have an old 7900 dura ace that give some problem . Too slow on a change expecially on climb.Take 3 sec before is changing gear.I can t update because is the first model .but i need to know if is the battery to old or all the group..how can i solve the problem without spent too much money.how even i can test the battery 10 years old

37. I have a Focus Izalco with Ultegra 6770 (10 speed) DI2 set up. That is changers, FD and RD with an external battery mount SM-BMR1-S with SM-BTR1 battery. There is internal wiring and the front junction box is SM-EW67.
    I’m building the bike and everything is installed, battery charged – the light shows green when the battery is connected.
    All the connctions are made with the cable tool and clicked into place.

    The changers do not activate the derailleurs and holding them down for 5 seconds or more does not display the battery charge indication, as the manual says it should.
    I can push the button on the front junction box to get the red light (adjustment mode) and the flashing red light (RD protection mode).
    In adjustment mode, pushing the levers does not result in any movement of the RD or FD.
    In protection mode, the RD moves through the range of gears until the red light stops flashing.
    So I guessed the issue is with the shifters or the front junction box.
    I tried using a separate front junction box, a SM-EW90, but no change.
    I got hold of another harness with a SM-JC41 juction box and connected it all up (externally). Again no change.
    I tried cleaning the connectors, again no change.
    I’ve run out ideas and don’t have another set of changers to substitute.

    Can you offer any ideas on how I can test the changers??

    1. I think I’ve cracked it by doing a firmware upgrade for the shifters.

38. Hi,
    I have an ultegra 6870 groupset and while riding the bike, RD suddenly jumped on smallest gear and it is now stuck there.
    Looks like it entered on crash mode.
    – FD is working
    – battery is almost full
    – long-pressing the right shifter buttons will show the batter led
    – pressing the shifter buttons produce a wiring noise on RD but not shifting at all

    I have tried resetting it by long-pressing the Junction A button but it doesn’t start flashing red. It goes solid red and then solid green, both for a while.

    I got an SM-PCE unit and connected the RD to it, the diagnosis only says “a fault may exists. contact a dealer” which is useless.

    Any idea?

    1. Author

       My guess is that the derailleur has failed and needs to be replaced. If you didn’t do anything to it (i.e. crash or run into something), then it’s probably a mechanical failure.

39. I’d like to use an 11-40T Cassette on the rear of my Cannondale 2018 Synapse but need to restrict/prevent shifting to the 40T cassette ring when in my 50T Crank chain ring. Can this be programmed into the Di2?

    1. I don’t think that you can restrict this with “manual DI2”, especially since you are using a cassette from another series (Shimano XT) with, I assume, Ultegra R8000. However, you can do this by using SYNCHRO and control the gears by the rear lever. Synchro would automatically change across to the small front ring before you get to the “40”.

       I assume that you are using Ultegra R8000. This has an option for 11-34 cassette.
       As you see below, the ratios track identical up to the 21.
       You could set Synchro to shift to the small ring when it moves out of the 27 (which is 31 on your cassette).
       With the R8000 Di2, it would not let you use the 11 or 13 when in the small ring, so set up Synchro so that it shifts to the big ring when it gets to the 15. This should give you a good spread of ratios when in either chain ring.

       You still have manual option for the front mech and this is where you could possibly do some damage……..so……….

       I am not near one of my bikes, but you may consider having a look at your E-tube settings and see if you can “teach” the left lever so that when either of the left levers is triggered, it will ONLY shift to the small ring. This, in conjunction with Synchro would stop you being able to inadvertently select 50-40

       11-40: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-27-31-35-40
       11-34: 11-13-15-17-19-21-23-25-27-30-34

    2. Author

       There is no setting to prevent the derailleur from going into a specific gear position. The only thing you can do is manually adjust the limit screw so that that derailleur won’t go into the largest sprocket. But the motor will still try to go into that position, so this really isn’t a good solution. I recommend getting a different sprocket set or getting a long-cage rear derailleur arm. Neither are “easy fixes”, but are preferable to damaging your rear derailleur.

       1. Won’t running in the full or semi syncro mode accomplish what the OP was asking? Although the system will move the FD to the small sprocket when he shifts toward the 40T cassette, it will keep the large front and large rear from being a possibility. Maybe that’s what he’s trying to accomplish?

          1. Author

             I don’t think that’s the problem. The issue is that the rear derailleur is not physically compatible with a 40T sprocket. Synchro shift will not prevent the rear derailleur from selecting the 40 tooth socket. It will sill try to use it for other gear combinations.

             1. Ok. He doesn’t say which derailleur is on his bike, so we’d have to assume stock. So, why is he considering an 11/40 cluster if his derailleur won’t even accommodate it? No point in even going there.

             2. There are mechanical hanger extenders which are cheap. This may resolve your issue. My mate’s wife has this in her mechanical Shimano set up. She runs an 11-40 rear cluster.

             3. The OP specifically says that he does not want to use the 40T whilst in the 50T chainring. The synchro solution would achieve this.
                The mechanical compatibility between the rear mech (which ever one he is using), and the cassette is another matter entirely.

             4. Second problem where a cable will not click in to a connection. The first time was the cable from the left shifter to the joint box, it still seems to be holding on. The second is a RD-6770 where the cable will not stay in. I tried a new cable to connect in as a test, no good. The cable that was connected to the RD works ok to other connections. Apart from trying to glue it in, is there any thing a person can do with it?

             5. Author

                Not to my knowledge. Replacing the component is probably the only option.

40. Thank you for the great info. I have a new Tri/TT bike. It has the 9160 switches on the extensions. It has the 9180 dual control shifter. Because the 9180 only has one switch, the system is set up for Synchro Shift. I would like to control my front derailleur manually. I was thinking of programming the 9180 buttons to the front mech, and adding the 9150 climbing shifters near the base bar ends. Might have to add a 5 port junction, but that’s secondary. Will this work, and do you have any advice, and or comments?

    1. You can use the SW-R9150 buttons, or you can use an SW-R600.
       you may need to hide a JC-41 junction (instead of a 5-port EW-90-B)