1. This concerns a post about Audi 7:
    Never owned an Audi product by VW. Irrespective, take the tranny maintenance schedule with a pinch of salt. All transmissions are mostly aluminum, built to tight tolerances. Magnet catches steel but aluminum crud falls to bottom of pan and will circulate with even the minutest turbulence in the pan.

    I purchased a new ’06, highly electronisized Mercedes with lifetime ATF and Coolant. I serviced the transmission myself at 30kmi. Bottom of pan contained silvery silt thick as a river-bed. Problem is exacerbated when German vehicles no longer provide a means of draining the torque converter as in prior years. This opinion is not just personal but also based on consensus of a related, global blog.

    If you bought the vehicle used, be assured it was sold just when it needed other scheduled maintenance. Take it from there. Oh, and I would not skimp on installing new drain-plug washer – they seal when crushed; are consumables.

    1. Author

      Basil: Good point on the use of aluminum. It’s definitely more difficult to capture, and could be the reason Audi has such a frequent filter replacement.

      The Audi S-tronic transmission doesn’t have a torque converter; it has a clutch design similar to a manual transmission. Actually, 2 of them. But unfortunately that doesn’t reduce the maintenance frequency.

      And you are correct, I bought the car just when the maintenance was due. I had planned to do the transmission service myself, but the spark plugs also need to be changed at the same time, and that involves some substantial engine access labor. The Audi dealer service department gave me a very good quote on the work, which was fairly close to my parts cost. They actually tried to charge me more than the quote when I picked it up, but adjusted back to the quoted amount when I mentioned the original amount.

  2. I am about to knock out this service myself. THanks for the break down and link to the manual- I wish I would have found this before paying for the Factory Manual myself. There is just one question since I noticed a minor difference in your write-up vs the manual I purchased. It is recommended to replace/retrofit a new external filter cap as well(part 18 on the workshop diagram you provided); did you find that necessary or was reusing the original easy?

    1. Author

      I think the filter cap is supposed to be replaced. I didn’t have a clear description of the part or the part number, so I wasn’t sure at the time. Do you have the part number details?

      1. Yes it is part # 0B5325240B(fitted at factory) 0B5.325.240.C(retrofitted)

        1. Author

          Thanks. I updated the post. Please let me know if you find anything else that’s missing.

          1. I just wanted to add an important note from the workshop manual: make sure to verify the appropriate ATF filter cap needed the B version or C version are based on corresponding ATF filter housing version. To ensure the right fit and prevent leaks I wilI talk to my dealer for parts(they can verify based on VIN ) and after I knock out this service myself I will have more insight.

  3. Thanks for your manual. Do you still remember the size of the tools you used for the drain plug and for the external filter housing? I want to make sure I got them before I go to the workshop.

  4. thanks for the write up , however not clear..do you need to leave the engine running when doing the final fluid check, at 38c or do you just need to get the transmission to 38c then shut off engine and then check fluid, …as not sure if the transmission may take up an additional amount of fluid when running therefore changing the level

    1. Author

      Andrew, after warming up the transmission fluid, turn it off to check the fluid level.

  5. Interesting that this DSG uses a filter and pan, with side fill port.
    The DSG that I’ve encountered on TDIs (my friend’s 2006, parents’ 2009, and now my 2015) all have a filter not too dissimilar from standard oil filter (cylindrical). That’s on top of the transmission (have to remove the airbox and some other stuff to get at it); then you fill through the drain port at the bottom.

  6. Hi Carlton,

    Great stuff available. You dont have to change the MTF – the oil for the manual gearbox then (see right corner of your pic of the s tronic above). I have to on mine, another 5 liters almost of a different oil. Not sure I have the DL501 but I know it’s the OB5.

  7. Hi there,

    I have a 2011 Audi A1 1.4TFSI that is unable to move at the moment. It can go into gear but it simply doesn’t move. Not sure if this is a mechatronic issue or simply lot ATF since it had a leak. I tried re-filling but still same issue.

    1. If it’s in gear and stays there it’s probably not the mechatronic.

      And no error message?

    2. Author

      I’m not familiar with that transmission. If adding the proper amount of fluid doesn’t help, it’s most likely a bigger failure with the transmission.

  8. Hi, does the internal filter have to be replaced in the DL501? The dealers I spoke to said it’s just a strainer and that it didn’t need to be changed?


    1. That is correct. It is the housing at the front containing the clutch. Should be five liters. On your model how often should it be replaced? I thought that oddly it isn’t to be replaced on most models. Is that due to a “lifetime guarantee”?

      The DSG further back contains six liters and a filter and should be replaced every 60,000 km.

      1. ** I need to correct the above.


        DL501 is the whole gearbox.

        Fitler: “The first oil system accommodates the dual clutch, the mechatronic system and the oil supply.”

        No filter: “The second oil system incorporates the manual gearbox, the transfer case (centre differential) and the front axle drive.”

        On most models only the oil of the first system needs to be changed according to the AUDI service document.

  9. I have audi a4 quattro 2.0t cdnc 2010 what yype of fluid shoud i use??

  10. Like a previous poster asked about the 2 separate filters. I too have the same question does the internal filter / strainer need to be replaced? I have been told they do not drop the pan to do the DSG service at the dealer. Thanks for the post.

    1. Author

      When I had the dealer do the service, they dropped the pan and replaced the internal filter.

  11. It is correct that the dealer doesn’t do it, despite there being a magnet at the bottom. There is a magnet at the bottom on all boxes I think and therefore, it should be dropped. And even if it is a strainer doesn’t it need to be replaced at some point?

    Otherwise, just clean it.

  12. I have audi A4 allroad 2.o tdi 2012.I have problems sometimes, when I put in a reverse, it has vibration, but if I start to give the gas a motor starts to go off. What do you think the problem is? thank you in advance

    1. Author

      Your A4 has a completely different engine and transmission, so the information here is not really relevant. I’m not sure what your problem could be.

    2. Like Carlton said, totally different transmission; check out tdiclub.com – they’re far more likely to have answers for you.

  13. Do you have to replace the bolts for the pan?

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