Audi S4/S5/S6/S7 S-tronic DSG Transmission Fluid Change Details

audi-s-tronic transmissionI purchased a 2013 Audi S7 this year. While I absolutely love the car, and I’m particularly impressed with the fast and smooth shifting of the S-tronic transmission. I was very surprised and a bit disappointed that the transmission fluid (and spark plugs) have a scheduled maintenance interval of 40,000 miles. This is overly frequent for a modern car; the very similar Porsche PDK transmission has a 120,000 mile service interval.

Since I prefer to do to my own vehicle maintenance, I compiled a list of the required parts and a general overview of the transmission fluid change process.

Transmission Model: 0B5 7-speed dual clutch, DL501 high torque variant
Applications: used in various Audi and VW vehicles, including the Audi S4, S5, S6, S7 and the European versions of the A4 and A5

Maintenance Interval: 35,000 miles for first change; 40,000 miles for all subsequent changes
Audi/VW Transmission Fluid Spec / Part Number: G 052 529 A2
Fluid Capacity: 7 liters

Filters and Gaskets (need to be replaced every time):
Transmission Filter – Internal: Part Number B 532 542 9E (must remove transmission oil pan cover to access this filter)
Transmission Filter – External: Part Number B 532 533 0A
Transmission Filter Gasket: Part Number WHT003379
Transmission Oil Pan Gasket: 0B5321371E
Transmission External Filter Cap: 0B5.325.240.C

Optional Parts – Probably Don’t Need to Replace:
Transmission Drain/Fill Plug (M22x1.5): WHT005282
Sealing Washer (22×27): N0138275


  • Remove Side Fill Plug (to make sure you can access it – be sure you can refill before your drain)
  • Remove bottom drain plug from transmission pan, drain fluid
  • Remove pan
  • Replace plastic filter assembly inside pan
  • If there are magnets in the pan to pick up loose metal, clean them of all metal
  • Reinstall pan, use new pan gasket
  • Reinstall drain plug
  • Remove old external filter, install new external filter
  • Run fill tubing up through engine compartment, fill transmission with fluid until it overflows from the fill hole – car must be level
  • Install fill plug
  • Start engine, drive, and shift through all gears to distribute the transmission fluid; keep driving until the transmission fluid is up to operating temperature (38 degrees C)
    • Optionally, if you have the Ross-Tech VAG-COM VCDS software and adapter, go to Select Control Module->02 – Automatic Transmission-> Advanced Measuring Values->Transmission fluid temperature and make sure it reaches at least 38 degrees C
  • Remove fill plug, top-off fluid level, reinstall fill plug


Written by in: Automotive | Tags: , , , , , | Last updated on: 2016-July-31 |


  • Basil R Bhan says:

    This concerns a post about Audi 7:
    Never owned an Audi product by VW. Irrespective, take the tranny maintenance schedule with a pinch of salt. All transmissions are mostly aluminum, built to tight tolerances. Magnet catches steel but aluminum crud falls to bottom of pan and will circulate with even the minutest turbulence in the pan.

    I purchased a new ’06, highly electronisized Mercedes with lifetime ATF and Coolant. I serviced the transmission myself at 30kmi. Bottom of pan contained silvery silt thick as a river-bed. Problem is exacerbated when German vehicles no longer provide a means of draining the torque converter as in prior years. This opinion is not just personal but also based on consensus of a related, global blog.

    If you bought the vehicle used, be assured it was sold just when it needed other scheduled maintenance. Take it from there. Oh, and I would not skimp on installing new drain-plug washer – they seal when crushed; are consumables.

    • Carlton Bale says:

      Basil: Good point on the use of aluminum. It’s definitely more difficult to capture, and could be the reason Audi has such a frequent filter replacement.

      The Audi S-tronic transmission doesn’t have a torque converter; it has a clutch design similar to a manual transmission. Actually, 2 of them. But unfortunately that doesn’t reduce the maintenance frequency.

      And you are correct, I bought the car just when the maintenance was due. I had planned to do the transmission service myself, but the spark plugs also need to be changed at the same time, and that involves some substantial engine access labor. The Audi dealer service department gave me a very good quote on the work, which was fairly close to my parts cost. They actually tried to charge me more than the quote when I picked it up, but adjusted back to the quoted amount when I mentioned the original amount.

  • Sergio says:

    I am about to knock out this service myself. THanks for the break down and link to the manual- I wish I would have found this before paying for the Factory Manual myself. There is just one question since I noticed a minor difference in your write-up vs the manual I purchased. It is recommended to replace/retrofit a new external filter cap as well(part 18 on the workshop diagram you provided); did you find that necessary or was reusing the original easy?

    • Carlton Bale says:

      I think the filter cap is supposed to be replaced. I didn’t have a clear description of the part or the part number, so I wasn’t sure at the time. Do you have the part number details?

      • Sergio says:

        Yes it is part # 0B5325240B(fitted at factory) 0B5.325.240.C(retrofitted)

        • Carlton Bale says:

          Thanks. I updated the post. Please let me know if you find anything else that’s missing.

          • Sergio says:

            I just wanted to add an important note from the workshop manual: make sure to verify the appropriate ATF filter cap needed the B version or C version are based on corresponding ATF filter housing version. To ensure the right fit and prevent leaks I wilI talk to my dealer for parts(they can verify based on VIN ) and after I knock out this service myself I will have more insight.

  • Laurens says:

    Thanks for your manual. Do you still remember the size of the tools you used for the drain plug and for the external filter housing? I want to make sure I got them before I go to the workshop.

  • andrew says:

    thanks for the write up , however not you need to leave the engine running when doing the final fluid check, at 38c or do you just need to get the transmission to 38c then shut off engine and then check fluid, …as not sure if the transmission may take up an additional amount of fluid when running therefore changing the level

  • Mike Flegel says:

    Interesting that this DSG uses a filter and pan, with side fill port.
    The DSG that I’ve encountered on TDIs (my friend’s 2006, parents’ 2009, and now my 2015) all have a filter not too dissimilar from standard oil filter (cylindrical). That’s on top of the transmission (have to remove the airbox and some other stuff to get at it); then you fill through the drain port at the bottom.

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