I purchased a 2013 Audi S7 this year. While I absolutely love the car, and I’m particularly impressed with the fast and smooth shifting of the S-tronic transmission. I was very surprised and a bit disappointed that the transmission fluid (and spark plugs) have a scheduled maintenance interval of 40,000 miles. This is overly frequent for a modern car; the very similar Porsche PDK transmission has a 120,000 mile service interval.
Since I prefer to do to my own vehicle maintenance, I compiled a list of the required parts and a general overview of the transmission fluid change process.
Transmission Model: 0B5 7-speed dual clutch, DL501 high torque variant
Applications: used in various Audi and VW vehicles, including the Audi S4, S5, S6, S7 and the European versions of the A4 and A5
Maintenance Interval: 35,000 miles for first change; 40,000 miles for all subsequent changes
Audi/VW Transmission Fluid Spec / Part Number: G 052 529 A2
Fluid Capacity: 7 liters
Filters and Gaskets (need to be replaced every time):
Transmission Filter – Internal: Part Number B 532 542 9E (must remove transmission oil pan cover to access this filter)
Transmission Filter – External: Part Number B 532 533 0A
Transmission Filter Gasket: Part Number WHT003379
Transmission Oil Pan Gasket: 0B5321371E
Transmission External Filter Cap: 0B5.325.240.C
Optional Parts – Probably Don’t Need to Replace:
Transmission Drain/Fill Plug (M22x1.5): WHT005282
Sealing Washer (22×27): N0138275
- Remove Side Fill Plug (to make sure you can access it – be sure you can refill before your drain)
- Remove bottom drain plug from transmission pan, drain fluid
- Remove pan
- Replace plastic filter assembly inside pan
- If there are magnets in the pan to pick up loose metal, clean them of all metal
- Reinstall pan, use new pan gasket
- Reinstall drain plug
- Remove old external filter, install new external filter
- Run fill tubing up through engine compartment, fill transmission with fluid until it overflows from the fill hole – car must be level
- Install fill plug
- Start engine, drive, and shift through all gears to distribute the transmission fluid; keep driving until the transmission fluid is up to operating temperature (38 degrees C)
- Optionally, if you have the Ross-Tech VAG-COM VCDS software and adapter, go to Select Control Module->02 – Automatic Transmission-> Advanced Measuring Values->Transmission fluid temperature and make sure it reaches at least 38 degrees C
- Remove fill plug, top-off fluid level, reinstall fill plug
This concerns a post about Audi 7:
Never owned an Audi product by VW. Irrespective, take the tranny maintenance schedule with a pinch of salt. All transmissions are mostly aluminum, built to tight tolerances. Magnet catches steel but aluminum crud falls to bottom of pan and will circulate with even the minutest turbulence in the pan.
I purchased a new ’06, highly electronisized Mercedes with lifetime ATF and Coolant. I serviced the transmission myself at 30kmi. Bottom of pan contained silvery silt thick as a river-bed. Problem is exacerbated when German vehicles no longer provide a means of draining the torque converter as in prior years. This opinion is not just personal but also based on consensus of a related, global blog.
If you bought the vehicle used, be assured it was sold just when it needed other scheduled maintenance. Take it from there. Oh, and I would not skimp on installing new drain-plug washer – they seal when crushed; are consumables.
Basil: Good point on the use of aluminum. It’s definitely more difficult to capture, and could be the reason Audi has such a frequent filter replacement.
The Audi S-tronic transmission doesn’t have a torque converter; it has a clutch design similar to a manual transmission. Actually, 2 of them. But unfortunately that doesn’t reduce the maintenance frequency.
And you are correct, I bought the car just when the maintenance was due. I had planned to do the transmission service myself, but the spark plugs also need to be changed at the same time, and that involves some substantial engine access labor. The Audi dealer service department gave me a very good quote on the work, which was fairly close to my parts cost. They actually tried to charge me more than the quote when I picked it up, but adjusted back to the quoted amount when I mentioned the original amount.
I am about to knock out this service myself. THanks for the break down and link to the manual- I wish I would have found this before paying for the Factory Manual myself. There is just one question since I noticed a minor difference in your write-up vs the manual I purchased. It is recommended to replace/retrofit a new external filter cap as well(part 18 on the workshop diagram you provided); did you find that necessary or was reusing the original easy?
I think the filter cap is supposed to be replaced. I didn’t have a clear description of the part or the part number, so I wasn’t sure at the time. Do you have the part number details?
Yes it is part # 0B5325240B(fitted at factory) 0B5.325.240.C(retrofitted)
Thanks. I updated the post. Please let me know if you find anything else that’s missing.
I just wanted to add an important note from the workshop manual: make sure to verify the appropriate ATF filter cap needed the B version or C version are based on corresponding ATF filter housing version. To ensure the right fit and prevent leaks I wilI talk to my dealer for parts(they can verify based on VIN ) and after I knock out this service myself I will have more insight.
Thanks for your manual. Do you still remember the size of the tools you used for the drain plug and for the external filter housing? I want to make sure I got them before I go to the workshop.
Sorry, I don’t have a list of the tools.
thanks for the write up , however not clear..do you need to leave the engine running when doing the final fluid check, at 38c or do you just need to get the transmission to 38c then shut off engine and then check fluid, …as not sure if the transmission may take up an additional amount of fluid when running therefore changing the level
Andrew, after warming up the transmission fluid, turn it off to check the fluid level.
Interesting that this DSG uses a filter and pan, with side fill port.
The DSG that I’ve encountered on TDIs (my friend’s 2006, parents’ 2009, and now my 2015) all have a filter not too dissimilar from standard oil filter (cylindrical). That’s on top of the transmission (have to remove the airbox and some other stuff to get at it); then you fill through the drain port at the bottom.
Great stuff available. You dont have to change the MTF – the oil for the manual gearbox then (see right corner of your pic of the s tronic above). I have to on mine, another 5 liters almost of a different oil. Not sure I have the DL501 but I know it’s the OB5.
I have a 2011 Audi A1 1.4TFSI that is unable to move at the moment. It can go into gear but it simply doesn’t move. Not sure if this is a mechatronic issue or simply lot ATF since it had a leak. I tried re-filling but still same issue.
If it’s in gear and stays there it’s probably not the mechatronic.
And no error message?
I’m not familiar with that transmission. If adding the proper amount of fluid doesn’t help, it’s most likely a bigger failure with the transmission.
Hi, does the internal filter have to be replaced in the DL501? The dealers I spoke to said it’s just a strainer and that it didn’t need to be changed?
That is correct. It is the housing at the front containing the clutch. Should be five liters. On your model how often should it be replaced? I thought that oddly it isn’t to be replaced on most models. Is that due to a “lifetime guarantee”?
The DSG further back contains six liters and a filter and should be replaced every 60,000 km.
** I need to correct the above.
DL501 is the whole gearbox.
Fitler: “The first oil system accommodates the dual clutch, the mechatronic system and the oil supply.”
No filter: “The second oil system incorporates the manual gearbox, the transfer case (centre differential) and the front axle drive.”
On most models only the oil of the first system needs to be changed according to the AUDI service document.
I have audi a4 quattro 2.0t cdnc 2010 what yype of fluid shoud i use??
Sorry, I don’t have the specs for that model.
Like a previous poster asked about the 2 separate filters. I too have the same question does the internal filter / strainer need to be replaced? I have been told they do not drop the pan to do the DSG service at the dealer. Thanks for the post.
When I had the dealer do the service, they dropped the pan and replaced the internal filter.
It is correct that the dealer doesn’t do it, despite there being a magnet at the bottom. There is a magnet at the bottom on all boxes I think and therefore, it should be dropped. And even if it is a strainer doesn’t it need to be replaced at some point?
Otherwise, just clean it.
I have audi A4 allroad 2.o tdi 2012.I have problems sometimes, when I put in a reverse, it has vibration, but if I start to give the gas a motor starts to go off. What do you think the problem is? thank you in advance
Your A4 has a completely different engine and transmission, so the information here is not really relevant. I’m not sure what your problem could be.
Like Carlton said, totally different transmission; check out tdiclub.com – they’re far more likely to have answers for you.
Do you have to replace the bolts for the pan?