Home Theater » Home Theater Calculator: Viewing Distance, Screen Size

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1. 

   I have a dedicated theater that is 22′ x 12′. First Row is 11.5ft away from screen and the second row is 15.5ft away that is sitting on a 6″ step. I’ve gotten different opinions as to the ideal screen size ranging from 92″ to 100″. However, we tested a distance at a 110″ which is the max I think we would personally go because of the front row being at 11.5′ which is our ideal seating row.. Do you think 110″ is overkill or should we be go 100″? We have the Epso 8700UB with 1920×1080 resolution and plan on getting a 16:9 screen with a 1.3 gain. My fear is having too small a screen. The screen calculator suggest at a minimum of 103″ to meet THX cert. Second question: Which is safer to follow. The SMMTE or THX recommendation. We will mostly watch movies and sports. I’m a little confused. Your opinion is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

   1. Author

      Scott, as long you have enough projector brightness (and you do), bigger is always better. You will have no problems with a 110″ screen. I have a 123″ screen at the same front row distance. For the specs, I use the THX Recommended as my maximum front row distance / minimum screen size. Hope this helps and good luck with your theater!

   2. Thank you so much. The calculator is awesome!!

2. Hey Carlton…
   I have a dedicated hall vaccent for home theater in my house having dimentions 31’3″X 13’8″. I want to setup a home theater which can accomodate atleast 15 persons at a time comfortably.
   So, kindly suggest me in the same case about the seats, number of rows to be used, screen (LCD/LED/Projector), audio system.
   Hoping for your favour.

3. I have a 32foot wide by 40 foot long room, I am looking a 55″/60″ LCD/LED TV in the front and two 40″ LCD/LED tv’s mounted 20feet from front wall one each side of the room. All will be run thru HDMI and a HDMI Splitter. Your comments?

4. I am currently working on a dedicated screening room, 21′ x 13’x 8′. The room will have a dark finish to it. I would like to use a Stewart Studio Tec130 Cine Curve, with dimensions; 49″x117.5″. The projector is JVC DLARS60U, with an Anamorphic lens. There will be two rows of seating(two large couches), 1st row will be 12.5′, the 2nd, on a 10″ riser, 18.5’from the screen. Ideally, I would like to install the projector at the back wall above a shelf running the width of the back wall, a throw distance of 18′. When I entered the data into your calculator, it stated a max throw distance of 13.8′ for this screen size. This would place the projector in the middle of the room. If I placed it back to 18′, will it provide enough light output for this screen? Appreciate your invaluable input soonest.

   1. Author

      Richard, I’m assuming you checked in the owner’s manual to determine the correct throw distances. I’m not sure if that projector has a long enough throw to be that far from the screen, but you’ll have to check. You’ll need to know what type of anamorphic (horizontal expansion or vertical compression) and adapt the table.

      In general, optics will cause all projectors to have better contrast ratios at far throw distances and higher brightness at closer distances. These differences aren’t hugely apparent, and I wouldn’t use this to make my location decision. Go with the mounting location that best fits the aesthetics of your room.

5. Carlton, I have a projector question based on these non modifiable screen/throw/view dist criteria. My max screen size I can install based on top bottom restrictions of mounting height/mantel is 86″ diagonal. My Throw is predetermined at 18′. Single row viewing distance predetermined at 8′ (+/- 6″ max)

   I am having difficulty finding a projector that will throw that far with only 86″ diagonal. Any suggestions?

   Budget $1000 – $2500
   considerable ambient light w sliding glass door.
   1920×1080 preferred, but will go 720 if I have to
   considering SI black diamond screen to help with light.
   (Living room, not a dedicated Home Theater application)

   Thanks!

   1. Author

      Jim,

      I can’t give you an exact projector model, but you most likely will have to buy a Long Throw Lens to add replace the stock lens. Multiple manufacturers offer long throw lenses, but I’m not sure for which models. InFocus and Mitsubishi and Epson would be good starts. Read the reviews on ProjectorCentral.com and see if they mention an options long-throw lens. The biggest problems will be the price. . . lenses can be almost as expensive as projectors.

      Good luck!

6. Hi

   Do all your viewing distances apply for HD ready as well.I have a 50″ Samsung Hd ready plasma that I want to put 8.5 feet viewing distance.Is this about right?Thanks for a great site.

7. Carlton,
   My question is probably like many others you receive. We have a room we would like to turn into a theater room, it is 19’6″L x 12’3″ x 8′ tall. We would like to utilize a ceiling mount projector and were thinking of 120″ screen. Which screen would you recommend and what type of projector should we use? We like to watch HD movies. Also what type of sound system would sound good in this room? We have a Bose 5.1 setup already but was thinking of adding additional speakers to the side walls. Any information or website you know of to help design it would be helpful. Thanks and have a great day.

   Kevin

   1. Author

      Here’s my recommended gear list: https://carltonbale.com/ultimate-technology-list

      For the speakers, your best upgrade would be a true subwoofer (see link above.)

      avsforum.com is a good place to start reading and comparing.

8. Carlton,

   What a great and informative website you have. I’ve downloaded the spreadsheet, and have found it very useful.

   I’ve got an important, but low-end, question for which I’d like your opinion: We’re getting an HDTV for my elderly inlaws (89 and 91). Their eyesight (particularly my Mother In-Law) is not that great. Their seating distance will be around 9 feet. We’re trying to not spend too much money. I’m looking at some 46″ 1080p LCD sets and also 50″ 720 plasma. These seem to be the best fit for our price range (under $750). From the calculator, it seems as though the 50-inch 720p is a better way to go. Do you agree? Other recommendations?

   Thanks!!

   1. Author

      Howard, I agree completely, the 50″ 720p flat screen is better, assuming it fits the room. Since your parents probably aren’t too worried about picture quality, I’d get the cheapest brand that still has a descent warranty.

9. Great site by the way… I stumbled upon it.
   Currently couch is about 11′ back from 92″ screen. Projector is Optoma HD65. We need to replace it and want to go bigger due to the screen being over 10 years old and now has many scrapes and marks (crazy story as to why). Problem is that if I get the 106″ by Da-Lite (same model type as what we have now) it will have to go higher due to a door the screen will have to partially block. Don’t mind keeping the door shut during a movie. Our concern is that we will be looking up more at the movie now compared to before. I measured and the bottom of the 106″ screen will be about 3″ higher than our 92″ is now, and the top will be 12″ or so higher that the top of the 92″ is now. Hope that isn’t too confusing the way I wrote it. We projected the image on the wall/door to try it out, but nothing compares to actually having it on the screen. It appears that eye-level is closer to the bottom 12″ of the screen rather then the middle.
   Will the extra height cause headaches like at the pre-stadium seating theaters? We have another wall to put the screen on, but it would take much more work and significant cable hiding.
   What do you think?
   Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.

   1. Author

      Michael, I think the problem with high screens is more neck fatigue than headaches. The upside is that high screens are better if you’re in a recliner. 😉

      I think you will be right at the limit for acceptable screen height. Lower would be better, but I think you’ll be OK. The ideal setup is eye level at middle of the screen to lower 1/3 of screen. If the screen is above eye level, it’s way too high.

      Only you can determine if the amount of work required to move the screen is worth the result. Having it away from the door may be more of a benefit. Good luck and enjoy!

10. Hello Carlton,

    I really enjoy reading your posts and replies. They are very informative. I have a 20 x 13 room with a slanted ceiling starting at about 4ft with an 8ft ceiling that I’m looking to turn into a home theater. I’m looking to go with the Epson 8700UB as a projector with 2 rows of theater seating extending 101 inches wide about 41 inches high, 41”D. I’m trying to determine what size screen to go with, how far away should the first row be, and how high should my second row risers be? I look forward to your advice.

    Torrance

    1. Author

       Torrance, there is no one set screen size / viewing distance for any room. You can go big screen / sit farther away / lower screen brightness or smaller screen / sit closer / brighter image. You the spreadsheet, play with the numbers, and see what works best for you. I recommend starting with the largest screen that leaves enough space on each side for the left/right speakers and going from there.

       1. Carlton,

          That’s what I like to hear. Thanks for your feedback.

11. This is a great idea. People building their own HTs are always trying to determine things like screen size, viewing distance, platform height, etc. This is valuable info for any HT do-it-your-selfer.

12. Great site Carlton. Thanks for all the info. I’m a little confused. I was hoping to calculate the optimal seat distance for 1st and second row seating and the rise of the second row from my screen size and room size. However, the calculator has the seat distance as a user imput. Am I missing something? Sorry, if that’s a stupid question.

13. Great site Carlton. Thanks for all the info. I’m a little confused. I was hoping to calculate the optimal seat distance for 1st and second row seating and the rise of the second row from my screen size and room size. However, the calculator has the seat distance as a user imput. Am I missing something? Sorry, if that’s a stupid question. thanks for any help

14. Hello Carlton! I will be having a 16′ x 11′-10″ room sectioned off for my theater room and i’m wondering how i can take a small room and turn it into a respectable theater room? I’m not concerned about sound-proofing walls or anything, but would like to know the following:
    1) Projector or Big Screen HD TV? What brand & quality for each?

    2) I think i have room for two rows of seating. The back row will be a couch and the front row i plan on putting a row of 3 theater seats. Thoughts?

    3) I will have 4 drop-ins for ceiling speakers, but i plan on complimenting that with a stand alone center speaker and sub-woofer. Will that work?

    4) I am having a closet-size area (4′ (wide) by 2′ (deep)) in the left side corner of the room at the front to place all my electronics. What do i need to take into consideration to ensure all electronics are set up and placed properly(i.e. outlets, cooling system, cable outlet, etc.)?

    5) The room will also have recessed lighting with dimmer switch control. Where should i plan to put the lighting?

    I have an illustration/floor plan of my potential theater room if you need that in order to provide feedback.

    Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated! Thank you for your time!

    Ed

15. Hi Carlton,

    I have a 19 x 11 room. plan on getting a 60″ LED but am confused about what sort of surround sound. The room has two opening, window (glass) 6′ x 4′ and a double door (teak and glass design) 72″. Should I get 7.1 or 5.1 also wha brand do u recommend. I think Bose if the best but way too expensive.

    Regards,
    RR

16. Hi Carlton, where does one access and read your reply’s to the reader’s comments/questions.
    Thank You,
    Richard A.

17. Carlton,
    I would love any help you can give me. I’m a little late in asking as I’ve already had a contractor build my room out and have bought all my equipment for my room. Problem is i have made mistakes i think and would like to rectify them prior to carpet, seating, and screen/projector/receiver/speakers intallation.

    Problem: 12.5′ X 21′ room. 2 rows of seats. built back “riser width of room by 5′ deep. I am told i need 6 to 7 feet in reality to accomodate the leater seating by Palliser (67” depth when reclined). I know i will need to extend the riser by at least a foot.

    2nd issue: i am now hearing that I may need to insulate this item. the original carpeting has been removed and it was built on the 2nd story floor. is there a “base echo” concern ?

    Thanks!

    1. Author

       If you want people to recline flat and sleep in the second row, you may need a bigger riser. But they won’t recline that much to watch a movie. But it depends on your chair.

       If you have a powerful sub, you will definitely hear it outside the room. It’s difficult to isolate a room and requires special construction. Fiberglass in the wall will not help much.

18. Hey Carlton, its great reading all your material. I have some questions, I am planning a home theater room That is 20′ wide and 25′ deep, 3 rows of seats for a total of (20)seats, what size screen would you recommend for a projector?, I am looking at getting the best model projector out there for a home, looking to spend close to $5,ooo for it. How high should I make each riser for the next 2 rows. Ceiling is eiter 9′ or 10′. We are building the house next year and I am installing it in my basement, I have not decided how tall to make my foundation. What brand speakers do you recommend for something like this 7.1? Thanks, Mike

    1. Author

       Mike, I’m afraid these are not quick, easy answers. You should enter data in the spreadsheet and play around with it. Here are some quick suggestions on where to start. Riser height depends on how close the row is to the one in front of it. 14″ is generally a minimum; someone over 6′ tall would almost be touching a 9′ ceiling when standing up in the back row, but that row isn’t designed for standing, so I wouldn’t worry about that. You will need at least a 123″ screen, maybe 133″. Plug numbers in the calculator. Screens that big need a very bright projector; you can start by looking at the Panasonic PT-AE7000. Speakers are a very personal choice; I suggest figuring if you want in-wall or on-wall or floor-standing, then listening to the options. Good luck!

19. Dear Mr. Bale,

    Thank you for kindly providing this handy calculation sheet for all to use. It is a great help, and your effort is much appreciated!

    Sincerely,
    Oldengaerde

20. Chris, can you estimate a starting guess, plug that in, and see if the results look good? Then change the input and see what happens.

21. Dear Carlton, I am constructing a house and want to have a home theatre in the basement. I have two room options – one measuring 17’4″x 22’4″ and the other 14′ x 12′. I want seating capacity of 6 to 8 people and want to use a LCD projector. Can you please suggest which room size would be better and other things I need to keep in mind (steps, AV system etc.)? I am a newbie so sorry for the trouble. I tried the excel sheet but couldn’t really make much out of it. Thanks…..Shailendra Bansal

    1. I’m not Carlton, but I’ll take a shot since I’m going through the same questions right now. There’s a few different things to consider: (1) screen size, (2) dimensions for best audio and (3) seating space. Let’s start with seating space, since I’m coming to believe that’s the least flexible. (After all, you can adjust screen size or deal with viewing angles, or you can do treatments to fix the audio, but you can’t get around room for seats.) If you’re going with typical “home theater” seating like you see to the left and right of this page, 14×12 is going to be a bit tight but doable for 8 seats.

       Regarding the screen size, the spreadsheet is awesome but here’s a calculator that’s a bit simpler to use: http://myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html . According to THX (high-quality movie theater) standards, you will want to be in the 26-36 degree viewing angle range. Make sure you plug in the eye positions in both the front and back rows, using the maxim “every seat a good seat.”

       One thought about a riser: you’ll have two rows regardless, and you’ll want to raise the second row. This raises the question of how to get into the room. The room will have to be arranged so the door gets around the seats, but also you don’t want the door to come into the riser area. (Think about it: open a door and you see a step.) So, the room will want to be arranged so the door comes into either the front (next to the screen) or front-half side of the room.

       There’s lots more to be said, and Carlton will probably correct my blathering, but if you want to talk about this more I’ll be glad to pass on what I’ve learned.

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23. need help. Have a projected home theatre room (25’4″ x 15’8″)basement…no windows can be totally dark.

    figuring a max of 4 oversized seats per row based on advertised “home theatre furniture (11 feetwide /4 seats), and a wall that could hold a (14′ wide screen x 8 or 9 feet in height), what would be the optimal distance from the screen for the first row? Should the screen be somewhat smaller in width and height?

    Thanks

24. Well, according to the calculators (either the spreadsheet or the link I gave above), with a 14′ wide screen (16′ diagonal) you’d want eye distance between 21-30 feet. There’s not really an “optimal” front row position; you need to make all the rows fit into this range as best you can. And really, it’s all a tradeoff between seating and screen size.

    Here’s another simplified calculator that has a “wizard” format that might be easier for you to use:

    http://www.hdhes.com/tv/hdtvviewdistance.aspx

    1. Thank-you Gary B.

       As the calculations demonstrate, it is almost impossible to have two rows (6 feet apart meet the “perfect world” calculations.

       A compromise between the two seems to be the only option.

       1. Author

          Design around your first row as it will always be occupied. Occasional second row guests won’t notice or care.

       2. You may be missing an important fundamental in determining screen size. Image size should be evaluated based upon the primary seating position and the capabilities of your projector. These factors are limited by the fact that your projector will likely be producing a 1920 x 1080 resolution image. If you sit too close, you will see the pixel grid in the picture. Faces, etc., will have a regular texture, which is not natural. Sit too far away and image size will occupy a smaller field of view and limit a sense of envelopment.

          THX image width is typically based upon film presentation. Video is not film. Film has an amorphous image structure, while digital video has a grid-like structure. Sit closer to film and the image just gets softer and less sharp/crisp/natural in character. The THX recommendations for image width are for a 36 to 40 degree field of view. The digital video recommendation is for a 30 degree field of view for average 20/20 vision. That is intended to provide the sharpest image short of recognizing the pixel grid. If your vision is better than 20/20 you will need to sit a bit farther from the screen. If you have less visual acuity, you can sit a bit closer to the screen.

          If you reduce the size of your screen and place the front row at 3 times the screen height, or 1.5 times the screen diagonal, this will fulfill the digital video industry recommendation. By reducing the screen size appropriately, you can move your seating closer to the screen wall and allow the space you need for the second row for occasional guests.

          Some viewers don’t seem to mind watching video programs with the pixel grid visible in the image. I find this distracting and annoying while watching movies. In my mind, envelopment in the program consists of more than sheer panorama. It includes image quality as well. In the end, you get to decide how to view movies in your home theater. I find a smooth, sharp, natural image much more enjoyable than just the image size factor.

       3. Author

          Alan: All of the factors you mention are in included in the spreadsheet.

25. I was emphasizing those points for Norm. Your work is impressive. In my experience, fundamental principles may not be grasped by many readers until they are presented a number of times, and stated a variety of ways. Thanks for the resource your site provides.

26. Carlton – thanks for the website – lots of good information. I am planning to put a home theater in my basement and have a question about the throw distance and throw ratios. The room size will be approx 20’L x 13’W x 8’H and I am looking at putting in two rows of seating. My problem is that there is a center beam about 5′ back from the screen running across the room (parallel to the screen). This beam extends down to about 7′ from the floor. So if I follow the advice I’ve seen to have the bottom of the screen about 3′ off the bottom of the floor, this would effectively limit my screen size to 4′ high. This is assuming I lower the projector to a height of 7′ to clear the beam. I’d like to put in a larger screen than that. So I was considering the idea of a short throw projector mounted on the “screen side” of the beam. This would enable me to put the projector tight up against the ceiling and take advantage of the full height of the wall for the screen. Assuming it is back 5′ from an 8′ wide screen, that would put the throw ratio at about .625. I’ve seen some ads for short throw projectors but they seem to be more geared towards presentations or special situations, not for home theater use. Is that true or am I wrong on that? Are there good home theater projectors available with throw ratios in the .6 range and if so – do you sacrifice anything in terms of quality of the picture? Thanks in advance for your advice! Rick

    1. Author

       Rick, I’m unaware of any projectors capable of this short of a throw ratio for home theater. I’ve seen some, but as you say, I don’t think the primary intent was picture quality. The only likely downside to a projector like this would be uniformity of image brightness, especially on high gain screen, with tends to be pretty directional with light return. The edges might not be quite as bright, but this is probably only a minor concern.

       I think you’d be better off looking for a projector that has a flexible enough vertical optical shift. That way, you could mount it on the beam and have it lower than the top of screen, nearer the center. I’m pretty sure there are projectors that have flexible enough vertical offset to do this. I recommend to start searching on projectorcentral.com and go from there. You may need to find the manuals for a few different models to confirm. Hope this helps.

27. Thanks, Carlton – yes it definitely helps as you have confirmed my preliminary conclusions. Rick

28. Carlton, this is very insightful indeed. I have a question about my setup. I have a room that is 18ft (L) x 11ft (W) and 8ft (H). The problem with this room is that near the entrance of the room the height is 8ft and the end of the room the height is approx. 7.5ft (it’s located under the garage). It’s the only space I have. I already have a 106″ fixed screen that is installed which is centered and levelled. I have a Sony VPL-HW30ESB projector mounted from the ceiling appox 13 ft back. I have a sectional in there that is approx 12-13ft from the screen. The setup of the room is great for sound and brightness.

    Here is my issue, I am getting a lot of keystone issues. The projector is approx. 6″ from the ceiling (the lens). I need to check if its completely centered but it’s really close if anything. Is there anything you can suggest? I don’t want to do any lens shift and even if I do the keystone effect is still there.

    Appreciate any assistance.

    Thank you!

    1. Author

       Sam, lens shift should move the picture up and down without creating any keystone. It sounds like your projector is not level. The lens should be perfectly perpendicular with the screen. You needed to adjust the up/down rotation of the projector mount and also the left/right rotation. Once that is right, lens shift should allow your to fine tune. Depending on the projector capabilities and screen, you may need a longer extension pole between the ceiling and projector, to move the projector closer to the center of the screen. Good luck!

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30. Great site !! New home foundation poured last week. Planning media/theater room 22 deep by 23 wide and 10 ft 6 in ceiling height. No windows on screen or either side walls. Back wall is mostly open to bar area in basement. Plan is to watch tv with no lights on in theater but have some lighting on in the general basement area. Ideal would be 159″ screen. Seems like JVC projectors like the RS45are a favorite of many but they only throw 1300 lumens which would produce17-22 foot lamberts whereas the Epson 5010 @ 2400 lumens would produce 32-42fl.

    ? – Is there any way to estimate or factor in ambient light into the calculation?
    ? – Are either of these capable of driving a quality 159″ screen in a room that is not totally dark?
    ? – Are there any other projectors better suited without moving into $8K+ money?

    1. Author

       Chris, that is a big screen and will be difficult to properly illuminate if there is ambient light. It will be hard to find a frame that big, but they are available. You’ll need to use a high gain screen material. The JVC projectors are rated at a calibrated output, whereas the Epsons are generally a maxed-out brightness value. The output will probably be very similar when both are properly calibrated. Try to find some credible review to properly compare. Shop around screen prices; you may want to go with something smaller. Checkout what carada.com has to offer.

31. This looks to be the place to answer this problem.

    I am considering doing a basement reno that would allow me to have a small HT – maybe big enough for four people which is fine. The room dimensions are not ideal though.

    It would be about 12.5 feet deep and 12 feet wide at the front, but closer to 14 feet at the back. There is a small 9 foot long by 2 foot jut out so the room looks like a squashed “L” shade from above. It is doubtful this shape would change if I want to have enough seating.

    The four chairs would be along the back wall roughly 8 feet from the front.

    Ceiling will be about 7’3 to 7’6 depending on if I need a subfloor over the concrete.

    I know this is not an ideal shape for sound quality, but how bad would it really be? The ceiling, other than the bulkheads around it (similar to the background picture on this site), will be a suspended tile. Floor probably carpet and I could add panels on the walls of fabric and insulation.

    Second question is screen size. I was thinking 55″ LCD, but maybe even up to 60″. Too big or just right? It would be able to go pretty much right up against the front wall. The entrance is also near the front and I wanted to keep that open if at all possible.

    Is this a pipe dream because of the small size or realistic for a DIY project that would still be fairly decent? Thanks.

    1. Author

       bartman, acoustic panels make more of a difference than does room shape. You need to use acoustic fiberglass to have the proper effect. I’d put carpet directly on the concrete with a thick pad underneath. The bigger the screen, the better. If the room is dark, consider a projector and screen.

32. Thanks. Do you have a good reference on how to make panels? The walls will be all drywall. I can probably make something fairly nice that could be hung on them providing I come across some good instructions.

    I’ll look at both 55 and 60 inch screens. I’m not a fan of the projector option. I find watching a screen at my friend’s place hard on my eyes and sometimes this room will just regular TV viewing while I read or surf so that much dark to watch limits the use of the room.itorcqa

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34. Carlton – when you put in your acoustic panels, how did you decide on their composition and layout? I am having a hard time finding any solid information on how they should be built and where they should be placed.

    I love the look of your room, so I would like to place panels over the walls, just as you have.

    Just for reference, my room is 21′ x 17′ at the narrow part, 19′ wide at a smaller section near the front (walk in attic door space). The room is light controlled, and I will be putting in at least a 120″ screen, if not 135″….the wife has some trepidation at the larger screen for some reason…

    Really looking forward to totally building out the room. I have used some of your info (HTPC running MyMovies) to build what I have now, and plan to copy you even further. You can take that as a compliment. 🙂

    1. Author

       Hey Keith! Copy everything and enjoy!

       The acoustic panels were a bunch of work. I should write a post on it but no promises… Anyway, here are some things to consider.

       The panels need to made of acoustic fiberglass to be effective. “Acoustic” ceiling tiles are too rigid, fiberglass insulation isn’t dense enough. If you don’t use the acoustic fiberglass panels, it won’t attenuate the proper frequencies. Typically, these panels are available in 2’x4′ panels that are about 3/4-inch thick.

       To get the best acoustic performance, you’ll want about 60-70% of your walls and ceiling covered. You don’t want the room completely dead. You want some reflections scattered around the room. (Note that I didn’t cover the ceiling at all and covered about 80% of the walls – a few of the panels don’t have fiberglass in them. I thought panels on the ceiling would be ugly so I skipped it.)

       You want the front of the room to be completely acoustically dead. I have 2 layers of fiberglass panels covering the entire front of the room and the front 3 feet of the side walls (beside the front speakers behind the speaker masks.

       To get the best performance from the fiberglass panels, you want them to have a gap behind them between the fiberglass and the wall. 1/2- to 1-inch is ideal. This way, the sound that passes through the goes though the air gap behind the panel, hits the wall, reflects/disperses, and goes back toward the panel for more absorption. (Note that I didn’t do this; it was too much of a pain I’m not sure sure it adds that much of a benefit.)

       The panels must be placed at “primary reflection points” for the 3 front speakers to get the best front sound stage imaging. (The surround speakers aren’t as big of a concern because reflection/dispersion is more desirable with them.) To find the primary reflection point: put your speakers in their desired location, sit in your primary seating position, have someone move a mirror along the wall. When you see the speaker reflecting in the mirror, that’s a primary reflection spot. You’ll want to do this for each of the front speakers. You will need to repeat this for both side walls. Ideally, you should do this for the ceiling as well (I didn’t, it’s a pain.) You may want to repeat this exercise for a few other seating positions as well.

       You will need to install additional panels throughout the room. The location can largely be based on aesthetes. Just make sure you hit the primary reflection points. Having gaps between each panel will allow some dispersed reflection points around the room to brighten it up as little. (My panels turned out to completely cover the wall with no gaps in between, I liked that look, so I went with it.)

       You will want extra fiberglass in each corner to act as a bass trap. Basically, put as much as you can in the corners. I put small panels at angles across the back corners and loose panels in the front corners behind the speaker masks. Bigger would be better in my rear corners, but would also start to look weird/ugly, so I didn’t pursue ultimate performance over visual appeal.

       I made the frames out of 3/4-inch MDF. The frames are 2-inches wide. I joined the corners using a biscuit cutter, biscuits, and glue.

       The frames are covered in fabric from Guilford of Maine. Their fabric is available in a wide variety of colors and textures. It’s thick and textured and hides imperfections and uneven surfaces well, and works well acoustically. I used a pneumatic stapler (and air compressor) to attach the fabric to the frames. It requires way too many staples to use a manual stapler. In general, electric staplers won’t hold up to the number of staples you’ll be putting though it. Electric will work fine for a few panels, but will likely die an early death. I read of someone going through 3 of them making panels. Pneumatic staplers are the way to go.

       I attached the panels to the wall using industrial Velcro. I put about 6 2-inch long pieces on each panel. I didn’t trust the adhesive to hold the panels over time, so I put a couple of staples in each one (on the wall side and on the panel side both.)

       Installing the panels was the single biggest sound improvement I had in my home theater, aside from adding subwoofers. The front wall alone made a dramatic improvement. It’s a lot of work, but it’s worth the effort.

       I hope this helps – enjoy!

       1. Wow – thanks for the detailed reply! I now have an idea of some of the challenges I will face.

          I didn’t even think about deadening the front wall (I have floor standing fronts and on-wall rear and sides, you appear to have all in-wall speakers) and the back wall is actually almost entirely windows. I have it covered by thick blackout drapes, so hopefully they will have some deadening ability, since I really don’t have any place to put panels.

          Now, off to do some more research!!

35. You’re not watching 1080p TV | Tasel's Ramblings
    

    13 years ago

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36. 1080p Does Matter – Here’s When (Screen Size vs. Viewing Distance vs. Resolution) | CarltonBale.com
    

    13 years ago

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37. hello..i was plannin to buy a projector for my bedroom which is about 14ft in breadth and 16ft in length..placement of projector is fully flexible i.e. can be placed any wr..i am lookin to get a screen size of 90″…my room is fairly bright that is it has white walls and ceiling..has a window with blinds but still some amount of light comes in..i was considering thre projector models..1. Optama HD230X (Full HD, no 3D) 2. Optama GT750 (720p, 3D), 3. Optama HD600X (720p, 3D ready). My main use wil be to watch tv, movies both dvd and blu-ray and also games ocassionally.
    The questions are:
    1. I know that u cant compare a 1080p model to 720p, but few articles and reviews i read said for a small screen size lik 90″ or so viewed from 13ft, both the 1080p and 720p will look very similar and wont hav much of a difference. Is that true..??? Or wil it hav a drastic difference in image quality..??
    2. If 720p is fine and serve my purpose, ehich among the two is a better choice..??
    3. Is it worth goin for 1080p model scrificing the 3D feature in other two or should i go for 720p model itself with an added advantage of 3D feature..??
    4. Is the video quality in both Optoma GT750 and Optoma HD600X the same..??? if not den which is better as my main use is to watch tv (both std-def and hi-def)..???

    Sorry for so many questions..Thank you..Cheers

    1. Author

       reddy, you can refer to my “1080p does matter” article for resolution vs. screen size advise. Not sure what your viewing distance is, but I think you’ll be fine with 720p.

       I suggest you look more at brightness than resolution or 3d capability if you are going to be watching during daylight hours. Ambient brightness will affect picture quality more than any of these other parameters. Go for a high gain screen, because they tend to be directional and resist light from the sides to some extent. If there is a window behind where you will be watching, better put some really thick shades on it.

       I don’t think 3D is that important. You may watch 2 movies a year on it. But it could be fun to occasionally play with, so get it if the cost difference is minimal.

38. hello..the viewing distance is about 13ft from the screen.. so the main concern was with a screen size of 90″ with 13ft feet viewing distance wil dr be a huge noticeable diff in image quality as compared to 720p and 1080p projectors..?? and yes i will be using the projector duein the day time as well as nights..

    and regarding the brightness the Optoma Gt750 is 3500 lumens with native resolution of 720p, 300:1 contrast ratio and 3D feature..prices at 499 quids…

    the brightness of Optama HD600X is 2600 with native resolution of 720p, with 350:1 contrast ratio and 3D ready (i.e. its needs an optama 3D adapter which costs 170quids to make it project 3D content) and the projector itself costs 350 quids..

    the broghtness of optoma hd230x is 1600 lumens with 1080p with 400:1 contrast ratio and no 3d..it is priced at 499quids..

    so which is the one to go for..??

    also everywr the optoma gt750 is described as a gaming projector so wil the video quality be good if not better than optoma hd600x..?? or wil it be lower than the hd600x..??

    1. Author

       I don’t have any experience with any of those projectors. Higher contrast ratios are more important than resolution, 3-D, etc. I recommend you look at my 1080p Does Matter and Home Theater Calculator articles.

39. I have 7’4″ floor to ceiling height. Can I have a theatre room witha a projector?

    Thanks.

    1. Author

       Donovan, that ceiling height shouldn’t be a problem.

40. Thanks for all this information! I can’t open the xls file on my mac and i have a few question that you may want to answer. I am constructing a house and one of the study rooms is being converted to a media room of 10*12 size. I know it is a smaller one but I would want to set it up accordingly. My idea is to have Bose 5.1 lifestyle setup with Epson 3010 and a 60-80 inch projecting screen. I have the following questions for you :

    1. I have an option to keep the windows but I think it is gonna be a nuisance with the backlight of the screen. Do you see any advantage in keeping the windows in the media room behind the screen?

    2. What kind of screen size should I be going with because my room is quite small and please note that the house is yet to be constructed so I have not much of idea.

    3. My choice is to color the media room dark brown. I don’t think it is of any concern but I would like to ask if you if you have any feedbacks related to the place where my receivers etc would be going. I feel that the place below the screen will not be good to wire for control panel. What is your suggestion regarding this?

    1. Author

       Kunal, you should be able to open the spreadsheet using http://docs.google.com .

       I would put the windows in for resale value and cover them with black-out shades/fabric.

       A 96″ screen is as large as I’d go, maybe a little smaller (80″). Leave enough room on each side of the screen for speakers but other than that you can go edge-to-edge for width.

       My home theater is chocolate brown in color, so good choice. 🙂 Put the components behind or to the side of the seating area to prevent distractions from the lights, but realize you will have to point the remote at an awkward angle unless you get an RF Wireless remote.

       I would strongly advise against a Bose system. You’d be much better off with a cheap Denon receiver, a decent subwoofer, and 5 speakers around the room.