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	<title>Comments on: The Truth About Inflated HDTV Contrast Ratios</title>
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	<description>A personal take on tech and home theater</description>
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		<title>By: JGood4u</title>
		<link>http://carltonbale.com/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/comment-page-1/#comment-1729</link>
		<dc:creator>JGood4u</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Jan 2012 04:07:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://carltonbale.com/blog/2007/01/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/#comment-1729</guid>
		<description>Good discussion of this topic. I have worked with TV projectors going back to the 1960s when NASA used them in flight simulation. I traveled around America and Canada doing video presentations in large arenas and other venues. I have done engineering on TV projectors. As you have discussed, recently we have begun to see there are increasingly unrealistic contrast ratios, with virtually no meaning that I can understand. I would be interested in how these DCR measurements are actually made, if someone has experience with that. 

Typically, the contrast ratio is limited by the maximum brightness emanating to the viewer&#039;s eyes divided by the minimum light from the same screen surface with black content or even switched off. A screen can&#039;t get any blacker then when it is switch off, but even when it is off, it can reflect ambient light in the viewing room. So in your &quot;real world living room&quot; your screen will never get darker then it is when it is switched off with the ambient light you will typically use to view your screen. There have been a number of innovations to help screens reflect less ambient light beginning with black surrounding the phosphor dots on the CRTs. The best I have ever seen is the rear projection consoles with a flat lens/screen. In that case, the ambient light falling on the screen surface is conducted through to the inside black box and absorbed, rather then reflected and dispersed to the viewer. 

When considering the factors in the black contrast, you might consider the light from the screen image as it reflects off the surroundings in the room and back to the screen to illuminate it. If the viewing room has light colored walls, carpet, drapes, or furniture, then those will effectively reduce the screen contrast in all cases except the rear projection lens system. I designed a rear projection system in a church sanctuary using a special &quot;screen&quot; which was really a Fresnel lens on the inside surface and a lenticular  lens on the front viewing surface. This has the feature to gather the projected light from the projector, columimate it as it passes through the screen and the lenticular structure disperses it into the seating/viewing area. This sanctuary not only has white walls, but a cove along the back with florescent lamps washing the wall in light! Only glass windows and outside light could have been worse. However, even with the wall-wash light on, the video image is very viewable from the seating area, including the main floor and the balcony. Because of this &#039;expensive&#039; lens/screen system, super bright projectors were not required and the less expensive projectors in the 2000 lumen range have worked very well on this 8 ft x 6 ft projection screen.

Front projection screens also present variables in how they effect contrast ratio. Screen gain is an important factor in directing the projector&#039;s light back to the viewer&#039;s position. You might think at first, that you should select the highest gain available, but not so. Gain comes at the expense of  viewing angle, and if the gain is high, the project needs to be placed very close to the viewer&#039;s head position to get the maximum reflected light back to the viewer&#039;s eyes.  Still, this may produce a bright spot near the center and dimmer towards the outsides of the screen. If you don&#039;t get the light from the projector to the viewer, you&#039;ll loose contrast ratio as well.

Some of you have asked &quot;what&#039;s the bottom line in selecting a TV.&quot; The reasons this is not so simple are that there are various factors and values that go into such a decision: 
* how much can you afford, 
* how is your room decorated, 
* what time of day will you do your critical watching, 
* how much outside light can you control, 
* what kind of program material do you watch, 
* do you care about how efficient your system is, 
* how much resolution do you require, 
* how big of viewing area do you wish to have, 
* and how good are your eyes and mind at discerning these values??? 

Our eyes are very adaptive, especially when it comes to color and brightness, as well as other factors. We don&#039;t do well at seeing something, like a TV in one viewing environment, and comparing it to another. 
What you see in a store may be very different in your living room in the daylight. 

Recently, I bought one of those DCR LED/LCD 26&quot; for my kitchen. The sharpness is very good, but I get very annoyed by the dynamic &quot;breathing&quot; of the brightness as the backlight changes during a program. Charley Rose, an interview format with a completely black set except for a table, is very noticeable as the camera is switch from close up to wide shots. I wish I could disable that feature on this set.

Most of what you buy a TV to view is entrainment, and you will very likely be well entertained as long as you can see the subject matter reasonable well. Control and select those factors you can at reasonable cost, and sit back and enjoy the program!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good discussion of this topic. I have worked with TV projectors going back to the 1960s when NASA used them in flight simulation. I traveled around America and Canada doing video presentations in large arenas and other venues. I have done engineering on TV projectors. As you have discussed, recently we have begun to see there are increasingly unrealistic contrast ratios, with virtually no meaning that I can understand. I would be interested in how these DCR measurements are actually made, if someone has experience with that. </p>
<p>Typically, the contrast ratio is limited by the maximum brightness emanating to the viewer&#8217;s eyes divided by the minimum light from the same screen surface with black content or even switched off. A screen can&#8217;t get any blacker then when it is switch off, but even when it is off, it can reflect ambient light in the viewing room. So in your &#8220;real world living room&#8221; your screen will never get darker then it is when it is switched off with the ambient light you will typically use to view your screen. There have been a number of innovations to help screens reflect less ambient light beginning with black surrounding the phosphor dots on the CRTs. The best I have ever seen is the rear projection consoles with a flat lens/screen. In that case, the ambient light falling on the screen surface is conducted through to the inside black box and absorbed, rather then reflected and dispersed to the viewer. </p>
<p>When considering the factors in the black contrast, you might consider the light from the screen image as it reflects off the surroundings in the room and back to the screen to illuminate it. If the viewing room has light colored walls, carpet, drapes, or furniture, then those will effectively reduce the screen contrast in all cases except the rear projection lens system. I designed a rear projection system in a church sanctuary using a special &#8220;screen&#8221; which was really a Fresnel lens on the inside surface and a lenticular  lens on the front viewing surface. This has the feature to gather the projected light from the projector, columimate it as it passes through the screen and the lenticular structure disperses it into the seating/viewing area. This sanctuary not only has white walls, but a cove along the back with florescent lamps washing the wall in light! Only glass windows and outside light could have been worse. However, even with the wall-wash light on, the video image is very viewable from the seating area, including the main floor and the balcony. Because of this &#8216;expensive&#8217; lens/screen system, super bright projectors were not required and the less expensive projectors in the 2000 lumen range have worked very well on this 8 ft x 6 ft projection screen.</p>
<p>Front projection screens also present variables in how they effect contrast ratio. Screen gain is an important factor in directing the projector&#8217;s light back to the viewer&#8217;s position. You might think at first, that you should select the highest gain available, but not so. Gain comes at the expense of  viewing angle, and if the gain is high, the project needs to be placed very close to the viewer&#8217;s head position to get the maximum reflected light back to the viewer&#8217;s eyes.  Still, this may produce a bright spot near the center and dimmer towards the outsides of the screen. If you don&#8217;t get the light from the projector to the viewer, you&#8217;ll loose contrast ratio as well.</p>
<p>Some of you have asked &#8220;what&#8217;s the bottom line in selecting a TV.&#8221; The reasons this is not so simple are that there are various factors and values that go into such a decision:<br />
* how much can you afford,<br />
* how is your room decorated,<br />
* what time of day will you do your critical watching,<br />
* how much outside light can you control,<br />
* what kind of program material do you watch,<br />
* do you care about how efficient your system is,<br />
* how much resolution do you require,<br />
* how big of viewing area do you wish to have,<br />
* and how good are your eyes and mind at discerning these values??? </p>
<p>Our eyes are very adaptive, especially when it comes to color and brightness, as well as other factors. We don&#8217;t do well at seeing something, like a TV in one viewing environment, and comparing it to another.<br />
What you see in a store may be very different in your living room in the daylight. </p>
<p>Recently, I bought one of those DCR LED/LCD 26&#8243; for my kitchen. The sharpness is very good, but I get very annoyed by the dynamic &#8220;breathing&#8221; of the brightness as the backlight changes during a program. Charley Rose, an interview format with a completely black set except for a table, is very noticeable as the camera is switch from close up to wide shots. I wish I could disable that feature on this set.</p>
<p>Most of what you buy a TV to view is entrainment, and you will very likely be well entertained as long as you can see the subject matter reasonable well. Control and select those factors you can at reasonable cost, and sit back and enjoy the program!</p>
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		<title>By: Contraste en paneles LCD y LED: lo que hay que saber</title>
		<link>http://carltonbale.com/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/comment-page-1/#comment-1728</link>
		<dc:creator>Contraste en paneles LCD y LED: lo que hay que saber</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Sep 2011 04:51:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://carltonbale.com/blog/2007/01/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/#comment-1728</guid>
		<description>[...] hace, es un excelente producto (al igual que los sinto-amplificadores que muestran potencia RMS). Según Carlton Bale una pantalla con un ratio ANSI de 250:1 es más que [...] </description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] hace, es un excelente producto (al igual que los sinto-amplificadores que muestran potencia RMS). Según Carlton Bale una pantalla con un ratio ANSI de 250:1 es más que [...] </p>
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		<title>By: Rob</title>
		<link>http://carltonbale.com/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/comment-page-1/#comment-1727</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Mar 2011 22:43:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://carltonbale.com/blog/2007/01/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/#comment-1727</guid>
		<description>Dynamic contrast ratio is a technique used to increase the on/off contrast ratio of a backlit LCD screen. Basically it takes a look at the scene currently displayed, and if it&#039;s generally a dark scene it reduces the brightness of the backlight to prevent the dark shadows from being washed out by light from the backlight leaking through. For brighter scenes then the backlight is brought up again. This is great for giving higher contrast ratio numbers, but if you ever watch a movie on a TV with DCR enabled it is incredibly distracting - when there are light and dark areas on the screen at the same time, you can actually *see* the backlight go up and down.

Good write-up, by the way Carlton :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dynamic contrast ratio is a technique used to increase the on/off contrast ratio of a backlit LCD screen. Basically it takes a look at the scene currently displayed, and if it&#8217;s generally a dark scene it reduces the brightness of the backlight to prevent the dark shadows from being washed out by light from the backlight leaking through. For brighter scenes then the backlight is brought up again. This is great for giving higher contrast ratio numbers, but if you ever watch a movie on a TV with DCR enabled it is incredibly distracting &#8211; when there are light and dark areas on the screen at the same time, you can actually *see* the backlight go up and down.</p>
<p>Good write-up, by the way Carlton <img src='http://carltonbale.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Carlton Bale</title>
		<link>http://carltonbale.com/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/comment-page-1/#comment-1726</link>
		<dc:creator>Carlton Bale</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Sep 2010 13:27:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://carltonbale.com/blog/2007/01/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/#comment-1726</guid>
		<description>You can tell pretty much nothing from a Dynamic Contrast Ratio spec. You either need to find a professional review of the display that tests it, compare it with your own eyes, or use something like a Sypder 3 to perform the test yourself.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You can tell pretty much nothing from a Dynamic Contrast Ratio spec. You either need to find a professional review of the display that tests it, compare it with your own eyes, or use something like a Sypder 3 to perform the test yourself.</p>
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		<title>By: Aldo Lammy</title>
		<link>http://carltonbale.com/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/comment-page-1/#comment-1725</link>
		<dc:creator>Aldo Lammy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Sep 2010 05:45:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://carltonbale.com/blog/2007/01/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/#comment-1725</guid>
		<description>I would like to ask about Dynamic Contrast Ratio. Manufacturer nowadays are more to show the DCR instead Contrast Ratio, since it claimed to be like millions compare to one DCR. I&#039;m thinking of buying a computer external display, and I couldn&#039;t find the CR shown in specs area, only a millions DCR. What should I look in the spec area? For example, the display I interested in has a 5.000.000 : 1 DCR, and a 250 cd/m2 brightness and a 5ms response LED backlight display. What can you tell from this? And after all, do you think the best decision to make is to look at the display itself?
I have a Sony KLV-40W400A, with a 30000:1 DCR (VESA standard) and 3000:1 CR and 450 cd/m2 brightness with 8ms response LCD HDTV. How to read the different between them? Thank you</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I would like to ask about Dynamic Contrast Ratio. Manufacturer nowadays are more to show the DCR instead Contrast Ratio, since it claimed to be like millions compare to one DCR. I&#8217;m thinking of buying a computer external display, and I couldn&#8217;t find the CR shown in specs area, only a millions DCR. What should I look in the spec area? For example, the display I interested in has a 5.000.000 : 1 DCR, and a 250 cd/m2 brightness and a 5ms response LED backlight display. What can you tell from this? And after all, do you think the best decision to make is to look at the display itself?<br />
I have a Sony KLV-40W400A, with a 30000:1 DCR (VESA standard) and 3000:1 CR and 450 cd/m2 brightness with 8ms response LCD HDTV. How to read the different between them? Thank you</p>
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		<title>By: Carlton Bale</title>
		<link>http://carltonbale.com/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/comment-page-1/#comment-1724</link>
		<dc:creator>Carlton Bale</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 10 Dec 2009 21:47:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://carltonbale.com/blog/2007/01/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/#comment-1724</guid>
		<description>http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter" rel="nofollow">http://carltonbale.com/1080p-does-matter</a></p>
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		<title>By: Charles Gatchell</title>
		<link>http://carltonbale.com/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/comment-page-1/#comment-1723</link>
		<dc:creator>Charles Gatchell</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 10 Dec 2009 20:19:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://carltonbale.com/blog/2007/01/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/#comment-1723</guid>
		<description>I have a Sharp projector that is Native  1024 by 768. It accepts 720P and 1080P HDMI Input.  Would I see the difference if I purchased a 1080P Native projector? I am using a Blue- Ray Player 1080P feeding the projector. The Picture looks great. The Projector is 2500 lumens 2000:1 Contrast ratio.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a Sharp projector that is Native  1024 by 768. It accepts 720P and 1080P HDMI Input.  Would I see the difference if I purchased a 1080P Native projector? I am using a Blue- Ray Player 1080P feeding the projector. The Picture looks great. The Projector is 2500 lumens 2000:1 Contrast ratio.</p>
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		<title>By: Carlton Bale</title>
		<link>http://carltonbale.com/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/comment-page-1/#comment-1722</link>
		<dc:creator>Carlton Bale</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Mar 2009 21:24:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://carltonbale.com/blog/2007/01/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/#comment-1722</guid>
		<description>It is absolutely true that there is no perfect TV. The bottom line it to consider your viewing environment and trust your eyes. Most people want a thin flat panel TV, so that means LCD or Plasma. If your room is extremely bright with lots of windows, a matte finish screen on an LCD is probably your best option; a LCD with a LED backlight instead of the traditional florescent backlight is best if you&#039;re willing to pay the extra price. If your room is fairly dark with few windows, plasma will provide a stunning picture with deep blacks, very fast refresh rates, but slightly less brightness overall. Understand your criteria and then go look at some models. Don&#039;t be afraid to turn them off so you can more easily detect screen glare.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It is absolutely true that there is no perfect TV. The bottom line it to consider your viewing environment and trust your eyes. Most people want a thin flat panel TV, so that means LCD or Plasma. If your room is extremely bright with lots of windows, a matte finish screen on an LCD is probably your best option; a LCD with a LED backlight instead of the traditional florescent backlight is best if you&#8217;re willing to pay the extra price. If your room is fairly dark with few windows, plasma will provide a stunning picture with deep blacks, very fast refresh rates, but slightly less brightness overall. Understand your criteria and then go look at some models. Don&#8217;t be afraid to turn them off so you can more easily detect screen glare.</p>
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		<title>By: Jackie Jay</title>
		<link>http://carltonbale.com/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/comment-page-1/#comment-1721</link>
		<dc:creator>Jackie Jay</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Mar 2009 20:31:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://carltonbale.com/blog/2007/01/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/#comment-1721</guid>
		<description>This is all fine and very educational. However I am now more confused than ever as there are NO t.v.&#039;s that offer all of the &quot;good stuf&#039;&#039; within one unit. Gentlemen what is the bottom line?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is all fine and very educational. However I am now more confused than ever as there are NO t.v.&#8217;s that offer all of the &#8220;good stuf&#8221; within one unit. Gentlemen what is the bottom line?</p>
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		<title>By: Phillyblunz</title>
		<link>http://carltonbale.com/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/comment-page-1/#comment-1720</link>
		<dc:creator>Phillyblunz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Jun 2008 20:02:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://carltonbale.com/blog/2007/01/the-truth-about-inflated-hdtv-contrast-ratios/#comment-1720</guid>
		<description>I think that the samsung dlp&#039;s with the led engine is a great option.  And apparenty getting better and better.  I have read a few bad reviews and dont get where they are comming from.  I bought a hlt-6189sx in late 2007, most of the bad reviews where from earlier in the year so maybe those issues were fixed?  All I know is my one buddy has the jvc dila 61&quot; close to same specs(10,000:1, 1080p, etc) but my led engine is so much brighter and the colors are extremely vivid and accurate in comparision.  with DLP you get the fastest response times, longest life before deterioration, low power, sharpest picture and absolutely no visible picture structure.   (the LED&#039;s are icing on the cake)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think that the samsung dlp&#8217;s with the led engine is a great option.  And apparenty getting better and better.  I have read a few bad reviews and dont get where they are comming from.  I bought a hlt-6189sx in late 2007, most of the bad reviews where from earlier in the year so maybe those issues were fixed?  All I know is my one buddy has the jvc dila 61&#8243; close to same specs(10,000:1, 1080p, etc) but my led engine is so much brighter and the colors are extremely vivid and accurate in comparision.  with DLP you get the fastest response times, longest life before deterioration, low power, sharpest picture and absolutely no visible picture structure.   (the LED&#8217;s are icing on the cake)</p>
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